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I just don't know what to use over all that to keep the clean or at least easy to clean. Someone mention Rejex
Pretty much anything used for protecting paint is used for protecting wheels. I recently posed the same question in one of the detailing groups I belong to. Any ceramic coating, synthetic sealant, or carnauba wax will work. Some detailers claim that a ceramic coating may slightly dull the luster of a polished wheel, though. Personally, I use Finish Kare #BWM101 "Hi-Temp" synthetic sealant on my wheels, calipers, and mufflers/tips. It resists heat much better than carnauba, repels dust, and keeps things shiny longer. Nothing you choose will keep the aluminum from eventually oxidizing, though. But, a good coating or sealant will prolong the shine until you have to polish them again.
On Saturday, swapped C6 Z06 shocks on to my 2001 Z06. The original shocks had almost 70k miles on them but still felt fine. Impressions after 50 miles, mostly highway: they feel more controlled and less harsh, but definitely still sporty. So far so good, looking forward to seeing how they feel while driving under higher-performance-type conditions.
Drove from Tampa to Jacksonville, stayed over then to Daytona and back to Tampa. Never touched an interstate. Drove about 450 miles and the weather was perfect (partly sunny high 70's). I saw three Vettes through the entire journey, one was a C4 for sale on the side of the road. I'm sure they were out there just not where I was.
Just preventative maintenance. There was an issue with failing valve springs in a small number of cars. The blue springs just happen to be the color of the updated stock springs.
Some Z06 cars from late 2001, 2002 and early 2003 had defective valve springs. Those were mostly yellows but there were other colors. The updated blue springs remedied the problem. Here is a link below (which is a sticky) that best describes the issue.
Finishing up replacing the stock harmonic balancer on my '01 Z06 with an ATI unit (steel, stock size) and ARP bolt. Think it was the original one, but at almost 70k miles it didn't really have any wobble. The rubber showed some cracking so it was probably only a matter of time.
Biggest PIA for me was unseating the steering rack from the crossmember. And of course now, the reverse of that getting the rack back in place.
Most annoying aspect of the job is that I left the stock power steering cooler in the car but shifted over. It's constantly in the way but at least could be moved easily. I probably should have tied it out of the way...
Also went ahead and replaced all of the air conditioning and serpentine tensioners and idler pulleys, belts as well. It'll receive a ton of new synthetic P.S. fluid as well since so much leaked out.
Removed the steering rack, in preparation for new front seals and harmonic balancer. Got a TWR/Vauxhall electric steering pump from the junkyard, to replace the overcooked and overcooking stock pump.
Todo: Clean up after last track day...
After finishing up my harmonic balancer job, I suddenly was seeing SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING. What could it be?? I didn't touch EBCM other than lifting it up an inch or so, only unplugged the negative battery cable, and moved the starter out of the way to install a flywheel lock (left wires attached to starter).
These were the codes: P1571 H C TCS no comm U1040 H C
These pointed to a lack of power to the EBCM I guess. So my first step was to pull the battery and hook up my charger to it (apparently this issue can be triggered by a battery with low voltage). While the battery was out I could assess the grounds.
And what did I find?? One of the thin (18awg ?) wires with a ring terminal at the main ground point was severed! That wire isn't very high quality, it's got a low strand count and thus isn't very flexible. So I repaired it with a fresh section of wire and a ring terminal, and a crimp butt connector. Put it all back together, cleared codes, and now good to go!
After changing out the air injection valves, I then was rewarded with the air injection pump code. So I got a new pump, changed it out, still had the code. Some do it you self-er (aka me) some how knock off the vacuum line at the back of the manifold when reinstalling it after replacing the back pressure valve hidden behind it, thus the real cause of the new code. I am very proud of myself for being able to find the wayward v-line and get it back on with out removing the manifold, and I have the scars to prove it.
Mark.
PS; if you get a code for the air-injection pump, check the vacuum line at the back of the manifold first. Your clue will be the you can hear the pump run at start up.
I painted mine with mat black grill paint. After 2 years it still looks fresh. Only issue now is ply separation around the edges. I wonder if there is a way to machine stitch the edges??
After I removed it I used compressed air to blow everything off and used a very soft brush and blowed again. Used semi flat black paint to spray it, have done this before on my previous 01 and any paint will work nothing special, the fabrick soaks it up nicely and it didn't take much to cover it. Also reglued some edges where fabrick was comming loose from insulation backing. Get one of those door molding plastic removal tool sets from harbor freight, get the big set. I have been doing it all wrong in the past, put the tool with the groove in it like a claw hammer under the button fastner from the front side not under button between hood and insulation and pull, no damage to insulation that way. If you do damage an area on underside put a piece of black gorrila tape over the hole and cut out the area to push pin back in. Looks a lot better.
I painted mine with mat black grill paint. After 2 years it still looks fresh. Only issue now is ply separation around the edges. I wonder if there is a way to machine stitch the edges??
My Z came from Florida and the heat separated a few of my edges as well. I pulled it back a little and sprayed some craft glue (wal mart) and used the very small clamps to clam it down until dry. Had one area that was a little stubborn and I used a small artist brush and smeared some gorilla glue on it and clamped. Used a paint stirring paddle to spread out the force on the area. I think it will be fine, looks better anyway.
12-12-2019, 07:45 PM
