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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #1  
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Took my 03 for a cruise tonight, and the first stop was the gas station. After filling, I turned on the ignition and got these messages; service ABS, service Active Handling, service Traction system. Turned off ignition, but messages keep coming back. Seems odd that this just happened. Does anyone have any ideas?... or do I have to make a trip to my dealer and their computer?

Thanks for any advice.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Before a visit to the dealer, try the following:

1) check codes: will require a forum search for instructions
2) inspect ground terminals for corrosion, clean and repair as necessary
3) get ready for a new battery (I had the same problem as my battery got old)

OBD
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #3  
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I'm guessing your EBCM is toast and needs repair. There's an internal relay in the EBCM that commonly fails and causes this exact condition. Pull your codes and post them to confirm. If code C1214 is present check your electrical connectors (two) at the EBCM. If they are tight contact absfixer (absfixer.com) to see if he can replace the internal relay (if you're good with electronics there's a DIY for this on this forum). Replacing the entire EBCM is EXPENSIVE. Here is the procedure for pulling dtc codes out of the car's DIC courtesy of Bill Curlee:


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
POST DTCS!!!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

Last edited by cdkcorvette7; Sep 6, 2011 at 11:14 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 10:55 PM
  #4  
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I had the same issue, I had to remove my EBCM and send it to absfixer.com for repair, Works like a champ now, As others have said you need to pull your codes.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 01:02 AM
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hi is the EBCM what some people refer to as just BCM? And is this the Main Computer? If so can it simply be replaced with one out of a Newer C6 Corvette? TIA Im a Noob in training just picked up my first vette. 98 Removable top Manual with 29k og miles
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 01:15 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 007KING
hi is the EBCM what some people refer to as just BCM? And is this the Main Computer? If so can it simply be replaced with one out of a Newer C6 Corvette? TIA Im a Noob in training just picked up my first vette. 98 Removable top Manual with 29k og miles
Nope, the BCM is the computer (BodyControlMod) and the EBCM is Electronic Brake Control Mod (basically a board that allows seperate actuators to proportion the braking to each wheel seperately). And no, you cant swap out either of those two units from a C6 to a C5.

And just a PSA, but it might be more helpful if people would stop telling everyone who see's a message on the DIC that they have to run out and get a new EBCM. Every case is different, depends on the codes and what is wrong and often can be cleared up by straightening out other minor issues (like grounds and battery).

Its called a toolbox because we keep many tools in there, if you happen to have only one tool (a big hammer) you can call it a hammer box . . .
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:31 AM
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Since you have an 03 Your EBCM can be fixed on the cheap at ABSfixer.com.
Just be glad you don't have a 97 - 2000 model, then you would have been talking about a serious coin to get it fixed.

Good luck.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 08:27 AM
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Thanks for the info. Jistari !
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 08:44 AM
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Good luck with the repair. Hopefully it turns out to be a relatively inexpensive fix.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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Did you ever pull your codes? What were they?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #11  
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I pulled the codes this AM this is what I came up with:
28 TCS 1 code= C1214 H C
60 IPC 1 code= B0516 H
AO LDCM 3 codes= B2282 H, B2284 H, U1064 H
A1 RDCM 3 codes= B2283 H, B2285 H, U 1064 H
A6 SCM 1 code= B2860 H

I tried to reset the codes and got all of them reset except the C1214 H C. This code would not reset, it would just keep popping up saying 1 code. I'm just wondering.. the previous owner suggested that the car would probably need a new battery sometime soon. Would this be worth trying before I start digging into the EBCM? The battery terminals are in very clean shape. Thanks
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:13 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by nels300
28 TCS 1 code= C1214 H C
Check your connections at the EBCTM. If your electrical connections are okay an internal relay inside the EBCTM has failed. It will need to be removed and sent for repair (unless you have the skill to fix it yourself). You can drive your car while it is out however you will not have ABS or TC, so drive carefully. Contact Brandon at absfixer.com for pricing and removal instructions. It's pretty easy, just unscrew six T15 bolts and pull it out. I've also heard there's a guy on ebay that'll do it...

GL
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:23 AM
  #13  
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1214 is an internal power relay that can be fixed by yourself for $2 and a solder gun or you could send it to abs fixer and get it repaired for for around 150
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rootpooty
1214 is an internal power relay that can be fixed by yourself for $2 and a solder gun or you could send it to abs fixer and get it repaired for for around 150
Do not attempt to fix this yourself unless you have experience soldering electrical components. If you screw it up it'll be about a $700 oops...
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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By all means, make sure your battery is healthy (showing static voltage above 12.5 volts) before going further. Then clear the 1214 code again and if it comes back after you know your battery is good it is time for the relay re-solder/replacement
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 03:32 PM
  #16  
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Default Code P0452 H C

I have a similar issue with my 03. Check engine light came on. Went through all the codes and reset them (all history) but the P0452 will not reset. According to the service manual the code says Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Pressure. I checked the gas cap and it is on solid. Did another reset and code comes back. Is this simply replace the gas cap?

Thanks. Hal
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by my62toy
I have a similar issue with my 03. Check engine light came on. Went through all the codes and reset them (all history) but the P0452 will not reset. According to the service manual the code says Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Pressure. I checked the gas cap and it is on solid. Did another reset and code comes back. Is this simply replace the gas cap?

Thanks. Hal
FYI – You should really start a new thread for this is your problem is not similar at all to this thread. You could title the thread “help with P0452 code” or something like that.
To answer your question, yes the cap “could” be bad or have a bad sealing surface and is easy to replace (not sure how expensive). It could also be cracked lines, bad sensor and so on and so on.
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 87SAM
FYI – You should really start a new thread for this is your problem is not similar at all to this thread
Sorry I thought it was related given it's a service code. Thanks. Hal
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