Engine stalled
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 220
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From: Deerfeild Fla
Engine stalled
Hello everyone. Started up the vette this morning had the AC on. Backed out the driveway and began to turn the wheels to take off. The engine stalled its never done that before. Well it started right back up. I had not drove the car for several days so I drove it around did not stall again. Came home after 30 min drive and pulled these codes 361 2282 and 2283. 2282 and 2283 are battery codes what do they mean? Why would the car just stall like that? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
Likes: 1,839
From: cookeville tennessee
Hello everyone. Started up the vette this morning had the AC on. Backed out the driveway and began to turn the wheels to take off. The engine stalled its never done that before. Well it started right back up. I had not drove the car for several days so I drove it around did not stall again. Came home after 30 min drive and pulled these codes 361 2282 and 2283. 2282 and 2283 are battery codes what do they mean? Why would the car just stall like that? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 449
Likes: 8
From: Hayes Virginia
I would recommend a Battery Tender or similar trickle charger. If you are not going to drive for several day this is a great way to keep a battery alive for along time. Summer time heat and Winter cold will kill a battery quick.... I always plug mine into a Tender if I am not going to drive it for several day or longer....
Just my .02 cents
Just my .02 cents
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Your left actuator feedback is shorting to ground (HVAC).
At the top of C5 Tech/Perf forum, there is a sticky on electrical. In there it describes how to test for a draw on the system after its shut down. That post has suggestions for those electrical items that tend to cause issues. I'd review that post completely, focus on Bill Curley's threads.
Monitor that battery and/or have it load tested. It may be marginal. Since this is a highly controlled and monitored electronic car, yes a loss of buss electrical power could cause the stall. Was the coolant temp above 104°F yet?
At the top of C5 Tech/Perf forum, there is a sticky on electrical. In there it describes how to test for a draw on the system after its shut down. That post has suggestions for those electrical items that tend to cause issues. I'd review that post completely, focus on Bill Curley's threads.
Monitor that battery and/or have it load tested. It may be marginal. Since this is a highly controlled and monitored electronic car, yes a loss of buss electrical power could cause the stall. Was the coolant temp above 104°F yet?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 930
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From: Aiken SC
Here's the reason for my answer.....Mine did the same as yours about a year ago. Bill Curlee helped a lot on this. If this man says it, that's all I need to know. In my case, it was actually the ignition key (pellet). For less of a better term, the ignition switch has a sensor in it that reads the pellet & sends it to the computer. If it reads it inaccurately, then the computer senses it is the wrong key & puts the anti-theft in action. (Bill Curlee can explain this a lot better than I can, so bear with me). Once you put the car in gear, it will go a few feet, then stall. It will crank & idle fine all day, except when you put it in gear (fwd or reverse). The first time mine did this was about a year ago now. I could get in, crank it, idle fine. Get half way out of the garage, it would die. Then cranked fine for day or so, then it did it again a few days later. Didn't bother me so much but when it did it the 2nd day, I was sitting next to a stang GT, talk about embarrassment. Out of frustration (anger), shoved the key in & held it & it did fine all the way home. The next morning, did it again. So thought about shoving the key again, but instead, got my other key & it's worked fine since then. The pellet on the original key was worn down excessively & I guess wasn't making a good contact. Now this may not be your cause or cure, but thought I would throw that in anyway. Bill also said it could be a faulty ignition switch with the sensor being faulty in it. I was lucky. Had an extra key, which I tried & it has worked great since.
Sorry for the novel but hope you find the cause & cure & post it for this dummy just in case mine does it again and it isn't the key.
tracer1
Sorry for the novel but hope you find the cause & cure & post it for this dummy just in case mine does it again and it isn't the key.
tracer1
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
Likes: 1,839
From: cookeville tennessee
If your battery is over 2 years old and you let it set for a week are so at a time and only drive it for a short period of time, it will not chg and go bad on you for sure. I have a tender on all 3 of my older cars now.
I went on vacation for 2 weeks didnt drive the vette got back the car battery went out on me in that time frame.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Here's the reason for my answer.....Mine did the same as yours about a year ago. Bill Curlee helped a lot on this. If this man says it, that's all I need to know. In my case, it was actually the ignition key (pellet). For less of a better term, the ignition switch has a sensor in it that reads the pellet & sends it to the computer. If it reads it inaccurately, then the computer senses it is the wrong key & puts the anti-theft in action. (Bill Curlee can explain this a lot better than I can, so bear with me). Once you put the car in gear, it will go a few feet, then stall. It will crank & idle fine all day, except when you put it in gear (fwd or reverse). The first time mine did this was about a year ago now. I could get in, crank it, idle fine. Get half way out of the garage, it would die. Then cranked fine for day or so, then it did it again a few days later. Didn't bother me so much but when it did it the 2nd day, I was sitting next to a stang GT, talk about embarrassment. Out of frustration (anger), shoved the key in & held it & it did fine all the way home. The next morning, did it again. So thought about shoving the key again, but instead, got my other key & it's worked fine since then. The pellet on the original key was worn down excessively & I guess wasn't making a good contact. Now this may not be your cause or cure, but thought I would throw that in anyway. Bill also said it could be a faulty ignition switch with the sensor being faulty in it. I was lucky. Had an extra key, which I tried & it has worked great since.
Sorry for the novel but hope you find the cause & cure & post it for this dummy just in case mine does it again and it isn't the key.
tracer1
Sorry for the novel but hope you find the cause & cure & post it for this dummy just in case mine does it again and it isn't the key.
tracer1
But I would start with the battery and go from there as it is another possible cause... Testing the battery is free and very easy, so is testing the key (assuming you have a spare). R&R of the ignition switch is a little more involved although still not very difficult...