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I finaly had enough of pressing reset three times every time I go for a ride for four months to get rid of the service active handling, traction control and ABS. Getting the six T-20 screws off was a challenge since I have some fat paws. Once I got the module off it was an even greater challenge getting the seal to break free in order to access the inards where the soddering takes place. Total time was about three hours, but I saved $150 to $1000 depending how you look at it.
For future reference, what code(s) were you getting?
I fixed the "TCS NO COMM.", which I'd been getting for a couple weeks, by cleaning up the grounds around the car, and spraying some electrical contact cleaner on the EBCM connector (that in itlsef was a real joy to get undone). But I think I'd be a little "weak kneed" about actually opening up that module...
I finaly had enough of pressing reset three times every time I go for a ride for four months to get rid of the service active handling, traction control and ABS. Getting the six T-20 screws off was a challenge since I have some fat paws. Once I got the module off it was an even greater challenge getting the seal to break free in order to access the inards where the soddering takes place. Total time was about three hours, but I saved $150 to $1000 depending how you look at it.
So you got the module off, but what exactly did you do? what did you solder and did you replace any components? If so how did you know they were bad and where did you source the replacements?
So you got the module off, but what exactly did you do? what did you solder and did you replace any components? If so how did you know they were bad and where did you source the replacements?
I used this websites instructions on how to remove the EBCM. http://www.absfixer.com/
Then I used another thread (very detailed with pictures) on the forum that showed me what to look for inside the EBCM itself. I can't find that thread right now though.
I'll post back tonight when I get home from work with what codes I was getting before, and a link to the other thread I used.
a little "out of the box" but do you think it would be smart to just remove the fender to get to those screws?
No
The screws face the engine bay. I guess you could remove the engine, but don't.
The serpintine belt and pulleys are what is really in the way, and unless you want to burn your hand off dont drive for a few (2-3) hours before sticking your hand down in there.
I used this websites instructions on how to remove the EBCM. http://www.absfixer.com/
Then I used another thread (very detailed with pictures) on the forum that showed me what to look for inside the EBCM itself. I can't find that thread right now though.
I'll post back tonight when I get home from work with what codes I was getting before, and a link to the other thread I used.
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Originally Posted by Vette Gator 01
No
The screws face the engine bay. I guess you could remove the engine, but don't.
The serpintine belt and pulleys are what is really in the way, and unless you want to burn your hand off dont drive for a few (2-3) hours before sticking your hand down in there.
oops...I was thinking of the wrong computer..the one in the passenger wheel well where you take the inner fender panel off and have a hard time removing the bracket or whatever...
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