F45 shock question
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I got the simulators when I switched to Pfadt coil overs and haven't had any problems.
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Here was some info posted about installing resistors to fool the system. Note - I have not done this - just passing on what was posted here.
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
Life Time NCM #2196
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 82,596
Likes: 1,712
From: Converse TX
Here was some info posted about installing resistors to fool the system. Note - I have not done this - just passing on what was posted here.
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
