Looking at this C5 - comments please
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 543
Likes: 24
From: Riverside CA
Looking at this C5 - comments please
Found this on Ebay and meets my wife's approval. We have negotiated a price(what I think is resonable) and would like your comments before I pull the plug.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevr...m=170709055215.
Eric
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevr...m=170709055215.
Eric
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 73,568
Likes: 33
From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
It ain't worth the 23k they are asking. But if you are happy with the price it "appears" like a car that should be looked at.
Just make sure you go through the car and pull up codes. If you don't know how, do a search here as they are posted. I would give them to you but I don't have them handy.
Just make sure you go through the car and pull up codes. If you don't know how, do a search here as they are posted. I would give them to you but I don't have them handy.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
It ain't worth the 23k they are asking. But if you are happy with the price it "appears" like a car that should be looked at.
Just make sure you go through the car and pull up codes. If you don't know how, do a search here as they are posted. I would give them to you but I don't have them handy.
Just make sure you go through the car and pull up codes. If you don't know how, do a search here as they are posted. I would give them to you but I don't have them handy.
POST DTCS!!!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 73,568
Likes: 33
From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
Thanks, I saved them!
I actually know how to do it, but I have to think about it so I didn't want to write them.
But I now have them when someone may ask! Thanks
I actually know how to do it, but I have to think about it so I didn't want to write them.
But I now have them when someone may ask! Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 21,325
Likes: 3,841
From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Car looks very nice, with lots of extra options... mileage is low,as far as price goes. You said you already negotiated a price... which I assume is less than the buy it now price.. Keep in mind that I would rather pay a little higher price for a car like this than a too low price. I will just throw this out to you...I have a 99 with 82,000 miles.. I have recently turned down a very serious offer from a friend for 20,000 dollars. He was so serious in his offer he bumped the price up to 22,500. I said no I was not interested in selling it. I also have every piece of paper associated with the car, including all maintenance slips, oil filters, oil, guarantees, receipts for after market products, and replacement parts. etc.
Good luck with your quest.. remember a really clean good car wont last too long...
Bill aka ET
Good luck with your quest.. remember a really clean good car wont last too long...
Bill aka ET
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,962
Likes: 254
From: Richmond, Ky
Really the only thing left to do is see how it drives out. The hard part is over for you, you have a car that meets your requirements and you have an agreed upon price. Hope it works out for you!
PS I bought my car from a dealer too and that ain't a bad thing if you have a reputable company to work with. All the advise given has been good, in my case I bought the car without pulling codes, still haven't checked for codes, and the car has performed flawlessly. I probably just jinxed that didn't I?
PS I bought my car from a dealer too and that ain't a bad thing if you have a reputable company to work with. All the advise given has been good, in my case I bought the car without pulling codes, still haven't checked for codes, and the car has performed flawlessly. I probably just jinxed that didn't I?
Last edited by f6john; Oct 11, 2011 at 04:33 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 0
From: This is not a Song, It's an Outburst: Or, The Establishment Blues; Sixto Diaz Rodriguez
Seems like a very nice Corvette, clean, low miles. Guys have already given you sound advice on the forum, so, if your negotiated price is right to you, I would say, go for it. 
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 99
From: Southeast, Tennessee
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
It ain't worth the 23k they are asking. But if you are happy with the price it "appears" like a car that should be looked at.
Just make sure you go through the car and pull up codes. If you don't know how, do a search here as they are posted. I would give them to you but I don't have them handy.
Just make sure you go through the car and pull up codes. If you don't know how, do a search here as they are posted. I would give them to you but I don't have them handy.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 299
Likes: 1
From: Punta Gorda Florida
all good except the buy it now price........way too high
Now if it were a convert with all options.......it would be closer
be sure to drive it and have it checked.....especially for front main seal at harmonic balancer
Now if it were a convert with all options.......it would be closer
be sure to drive it and have it checked.....especially for front main seal at harmonic balancer
Last edited by GeneT; Oct 11, 2011 at 05:52 PM. Reason: sp
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 14,573
Likes: 39
From: Prescott Arizona
I just picked up a 2002 with 12,460 miles on it for around $22,500. Pretty close to the same car, except for mines a 6 speed.
Remember when people are talking about price, it all depends on two things. First is where you live. Prices vary depending on region. Also, it's only worth what you feel it's worth. If you are happy with it, then it was worth the price.
Beautiful car, and I love the color.
Remember when people are talking about price, it all depends on two things. First is where you live. Prices vary depending on region. Also, it's only worth what you feel it's worth. If you are happy with it, then it was worth the price.
Beautiful car, and I love the color.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,932
Likes: 4
From: Warrenville Il
Very nice and very stock. If you can get it under 20,000 or close then it's a good deal. Drive it and check for codes and don't have any regrets. Good driver with lots of life left in her.
P.S. also check the remaining tread depth. At that mileage they may still be the orginals which could be very worn or very hard, either way it's not a cheap expense and could be used to negotiate.
Good luck
P.S. also check the remaining tread depth. At that mileage they may still be the orginals which could be very worn or very hard, either way it's not a cheap expense and could be used to negotiate.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 543
Likes: 24
From: Riverside CA
I just picked up a 2002 with 12,460 miles on it for around $22,500. Pretty close to the same car, except for mines a 6 speed.
Remember when people are talking about price, it all depends on two things. First is where you live. Prices vary depending on region. Also, it's only worth what you feel it's worth. If you are happy with it, then it was worth the price.
Beautiful car, and I love the color.
Remember when people are talking about price, it all depends on two things. First is where you live. Prices vary depending on region. Also, it's only worth what you feel it's worth. If you are happy with it, then it was worth the price.
Beautiful car, and I love the color.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,561
Likes: 33
From: Clark NJ
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '26
Nice car but If it has the original tires and TPS they should be replaced. That will cost you $1,000 to $2,000.00 depending on the type and brand. Factor this into your purchase price. Good luck whatever you decide.
Last edited by Johnny_B_Good; Oct 11, 2011 at 07:16 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,146
Likes: 203
From: Edmonton Alberta, Canada
Looks like a real nice car and in my humble opinion priced right, if you like it, take it home. Go with your gut feeling, it is a happy color that doesnt require much attention to look great, with 2 roofs! Good luck. Rob
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 543
Likes: 24
From: Riverside CA
After going to the Pomona Swap Meet this past weekend, and looking around at prices for comparables, we decided to just go for this one. Flying to Vegas Friday morning and drive it home!
Thanks for all comments.
Now there'll be a Daytona Yellow '69 and Millenium Yellow '02 in the garage.
Too cool!
Thanks for all comments.
Now there'll be a Daytona Yellow '69 and Millenium Yellow '02 in the garage.
Too cool!