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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 01:33 AM
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Default replaced the clutch

So I replaced the clutch with a centerforce dual friction clutch with about 1,000 miles. Drives great going through the gears but take off is a chore. Horrible clutch chatter, shakes the whole damn car. Is there a trick to driving an aggrressive clutch. I've read to slip it as little as possible. I have been slipping it quite a bit as I'm used to the stock worn clutch. Any input is appreciated
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 06:32 AM
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It becomes easier once you learn it. Mine has a sweet spot, miss it you'll know it. You can't slip it. I wish I could describe it better. Basically you have to match the rpm with release. Once you figure it out its a great clutch.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 07:02 AM
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More throttle.
Lower RPM.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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It took me quite a while to get used to the heavy clutch in my car. I'll still stall it occasionally if I'm not paying attention and revert to old habits.

I let the clutch out until I can feel it grab a little, just enough that the car moves forward slightly, then I smoothly add power while simultaneously releasing the clutch all at once. If I try to release it slowly while adding power it will chatter as you describe.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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Releasing it quickly helps a ton! Need to get used to it lol
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ZMX
More throttle.
Lower RPM.
Oxymoron?
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 02:24 PM
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Which clutch did you install? Some of the real heavy duty twin plate clutches are very hard to modulate. Unless your car is making 500+ rwhp and torque, a heavy twin plate racing clutch is too much.

For most applications other than described above, the LS7 clutch is a great choice.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by blacksedan87
Some of the real heavy duty twin plate clutches are very hard to modulate. Unless your car is making 500+ rwhp and torque, a heavy twin plate racing clutch is too much.


I'm right there at 522/496. Bumper-to-bumper traffic and parking lots are excruciating.

I always used to laugh when a NASCAR guy or some other big hp race driver would stall the car in the pits, especially if he was trying to get around a guy pitted right in front of him. I'm not laughing anymore.

Maybe the good thing is that if my car ever gets stolen the thief won't make it two blocks.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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Centerforce dual friction
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TorchRedRocket
Oxymoron?
I can see why it seems like that.

Don't fall into the trap of using momentum of the engine and flywheel to accelerate.

For less wear, an ideal takeoff involves low RPM and short duration of clutch use.

From an idle, apply more throttle than you normally would, but use the clutch to keep RPM low.

When done right, you will have a smooth, brisk takeoff with very little time on the clutch.

This has worked well for me. Off hand, these are the cars I can remember recently driving. All of them I could take off quickly while keeping RPM below 1300.

2002 Trans Am with Torquer V2 cam, aluminum flywheel, and SPEC Stage 2+ clutch
2007 Evo IX
1993 Jeep Wrangler
2011 Hyundai Accent

Obviously, with an extremely grabby clutch, it's going to be a pain in the ***. Do what you can while adhering to the general principle as much as possible.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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I put a "Centerforce" clutch in my 67. Worst mistake ever. What a piece of junk. Had to pull it out and go back to stock.

As usual, stock is best.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ZMX
I can see why it seems like that.

Don't fall into the trap of using momentum of the engine and flywheel to accelerate.

For less wear, an ideal takeoff involves low RPM and short duration of clutch use.

From an idle, apply more throttle than you normally would, but use the clutch to keep RPM low.

When done right, you will have a smooth, brisk takeoff with very little time on the clutch.

This has worked well for me. Off hand, these are the cars I can remember recently driving. All of them I could take off quickly while keeping RPM below 1300.

2002 Trans Am with Torquer V2 cam, aluminum flywheel, and SPEC Stage 2+ clutch
2007 Evo IX
1993 Jeep Wrangler
2011 Hyundai Accent

Obviously, with an extremely grabby clutch, it's going to be a pain in the ***. Do what you can while adhering to the general principle as much as possible.
So basically what you're saying then is to try to avoid slipping the clutch too much and to try to get it to grab as quickly as possible without holding it in the friction zone too long.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelfrench
So I replaced the clutch with a centerforce dual friction clutch with about 1,000 miles. Drives great going through the gears but take off is a chore. Horrible clutch chatter, shakes the whole damn car. Is there a trick to driving an aggrressive clutch. I've read to slip it as little as possible. I have been slipping it quite a bit as I'm used to the stock worn clutch. Any input is appreciated
No trick, just have to get the right parts. Ive been there with SPEC 3+, horrible chatter. Swapped to ECS Mantic ER2 clutch.... no chatter, drives smoother than stock yet holds 700+HP.

Also, your not supposed to slip it during break-in, it causes glazing on the flywheel and will slip at high rpms.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TorchRedRocket
Oxymoron?
Thinking the same thing. Jay
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ztheusa
As usual, stock is best
...with a stock engine. That stock clutch would not be long for the world with double the hp.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 11:16 PM
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Im starting to think my flywheel wasn't resurfaced correctly.... Any other symptoms of this?
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 12:27 AM
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I'm really puzzled. The clutch has about 1000 miles on it. I did realize when I first installed it with 800 miles , it didn't chatter and was quite smooth. Possible flush out the break fluid maybe?
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To replaced the clutch

Old Mar 2, 2012 | 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelfrench
Im starting to think my flywheel wasn't resurfaced correctly.... Any other symptoms of this?
That or reused original throwout bearing.

I have DF and though the pedal pressure is a tad higher than stock. It engages very smoothly. I've had mine for many, many years now. It replaced factory stock clutch and I twisted a tranny input shaft with it doing 5000rpm drops at 70mph. Just loved doing 100ft burnouts on the freeway. But, now that I have a hardened input shaft no more worries.

I'm sold on Centerforce DF ... This is the fourth car I've had one in. They
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelfrench
Im starting to think my flywheel wasn't resurfaced correctly.... Any other symptoms of this?
That or reused original throwout bearing? Oil on clutch disc?

I have DF and though the pedal pressure is a tad higher than stock. It engages very smoothly. I've had mine for many, many years now. It replaced factory stock clutch and I twisted a tranny input shaft with it doing 5000rpm drops at 70mph. Just loved doing 100ft burnouts on the freeway. But, now that I have a hardened input shaft no more worries.

I'm sold on Centerforce DF ... This is the fourth car I've had one in. They
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 04:42 AM
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Replace it with a McLeod Twin
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