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Anyone had to replace a power steering rack?

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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:59 AM
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Default Anyone had to replace a power steering rack?

My '02 with 37k miles was leaking power steering fluid. I took it to a repair shop and the people there are telling me that fluid is leaking from the rack and the only way to fix it is to replace the rack at a cost of $770. Is that correct?
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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If you do have to have the rack pulled & replaced, it would be best to have your (if original) crank pully replaced at the same time.
Good luck.

Last edited by bumble-z; Mar 19, 2012 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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So far you both agree that the rack was leaking. What and why? 37K is very low miles for a rack to leak for no reason. Is it hose, ram, or valves that are leaking?
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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They told me it was the seals and that they cannot be repaired.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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I have changed the rack a couple of times already because of play in steering, not for a leak. You can't get a new rack from GM anymore, they are all rebuilt. I have yet to find a rack that has no play. I have bought the cheapest and the most expensive rebuilt rack and they were both crap.

If your rack is still tight, remove it and send it out for a rebuild. The rebuilds are ok for seals, but they don't seem to machine the rack and pinion teeth or replace the shaft bearings.

It's a fairly easy DYI job, takes only a few hours if you have good tools.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Had to replace mine twice under Extended GMPP starting at about 30,000 miles.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by T5Mika
I have changed the rack a couple of times already because of play in steering, not for a leak. You can't get a new rack from GM anymore, they are all rebuilt. I have yet to find a rack that has no play. I have bought the cheapest and the most expensive rebuilt rack and they were both crap.

If your rack is still tight, remove it and send it out for a rebuild. The rebuilds are ok for seals, but they don't seem to machine the rack and pinion teeth or replace the shaft bearings.

It's a fairly easy DYI job, takes only a few hours if you have good tools.
Same here. You can't get a new or even a rebuilt one (no cores available). If yours is tight send it to TurnOne.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 01vetter
Same here. You can't get a new or even a rebuilt one (no cores available). If yours is tight send it to TurnOne.
This may be what ends up sending a lot of C5s to the graveyard. Hard to believe that such a major operational component can't even be purchased 3rd party!
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Choreo
This may be what ends up sending a lot of C5s to the graveyard. Hard to believe that such a major operational component can't even be purchased 3rd party!
Eventually someone will offer a retrofit of a C6 or other rack, but it will be too expensive for most.

I know a place that has rebuilt racks in stock, but I'm not telling until I get yet another one under warranty
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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I dont know about your Corvette rack leak..but my Pontiac GP was leaking and I put in some Lucas power steering stop leak and viola no more leaks and the power steering pump is dead quiet too. I suggest you try this, sometimes it is just a dried out seal or dirt impacted seal (living in the underworld environment) and this seems to be the cure, not a rebuild necessarly. Cheap option. Good luck, Rob
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Old May 2, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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Default How To Replace Rack and Pinion C-5

My 2001 Coupe with 166k miles has a leak at the top of the rack and pinion where the steering shaft bolts in. I would like a link to a good "how to" site so I can determine if I want to replace myself. I have reasonable tools including jack stands and air tools, but no lift rack. Just want to see step by step instructions before I attempt.

Thanks
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Old May 2, 2012 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ronj024
My '02 with 37k miles was leaking power steering fluid. I took it to a repair shop and the people there are telling me that fluid is leaking from the rack and the only way to fix it is to replace the rack at a cost of $770. Is that correct?
I think ZIP Corvette sells them for a lot lower price. Might want to check them out.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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To those with play in their racks, how do you distinguish the symptoms over something like worn out tie rods or other suspension components?
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Old May 2, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Z1bEST
My 2001 Coupe with 166k miles has a leak at the top of the rack and pinion where the steering shaft bolts in. I would like a link to a good "how to" site so I can determine if I want to replace myself. I have reasonable tools including jack stands and air tools, but no lift rack. Just want to see step by step instructions before I attempt.

Thanks
It's a decent amount of work.

Lift car (jackstands are fine).
Remove wheels.
Remove bolts on each end of rack to hubs
Disconnect 18mm PS lines. For this, you absolutely should have a 18mm line wrench.
Remove bolt holding steering wheel knuckle (make sure your steering wheel doesn't turn while disconnected).
Remove bolts holding rack to cradle.
Loosen cradle bolts and use a chisel or similar to space it out. Spring tension will push the cradle back up, so you need to use a screwdriver or chisel to get the extra clearance.
Remove rack from side of car by pulling through the wheel well.

If you want pictures of the removal, take a look at ECS's installation instructions for thier supercharger. You have to pull the rack to pin the crank. I did everything fine, except for not having a line wrench. I can tell you that single point was misery without the right tool. It came off easy, just took forever without the right tool to go back on.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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You can get the rack out without lowering the cradle, it is very tight but Ive done it. Also do your self a favor and buy a good set of crows foot wrenches, dont buy the cheap ones or else you will probably end up rounding the nuts off they will cost something like 70 for an entire set but are worth every penny. Its actually a pretty easy job once you get the lines off and just so long as your rack isnt stuck in the ears of the cradle.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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Rock auto might have some rebuilt.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by T5Mika
I have changed the rack a couple of times already because of play in steering, not for a leak. You can't get a new rack from GM anymore, they are all rebuilt. I have yet to find a rack that has no play. I have bought the cheapest and the most expensive rebuilt rack and they were both crap.

If your rack is still tight, remove it and send it out for a rebuild. The rebuilds are ok for seals, but they don't seem to machine the rack and pinion teeth or replace the shaft bearings.

It's a fairly easy DYI job, takes only a few hours if you have good tools.
Try the DRM bushing. I added it and felt the steering was more responsive.

http://dougrippie.com/?p=536

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Old May 2, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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Thanks for all of the advice.

I will order from Zip Corvette unless someone tells me not to for some reason. Will make sure I have the correct line wrench before I get started. Dropping the cradle by an inch or so makes this appear to be a reasonable fix. Sounds a lot easier than when I replaced the differential.

Thanks to all for the comments and I will post the results when done.

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Old May 2, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nj02vette
It's a decent amount of work.
Disconnect 18mm PS lines. For this, you absolutely should have a 18mm line wrench.
What is a "line" wrench?
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Old May 2, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Choreo
What is a "line" wrench?
Also known as a "flare wrench", has six points of contact instead of four points. Will not slip off the nuts or bolts. You will not find a 18 mm in a boxed set as its an odd size. The better tool suppliers will have it.
ie Snap On, Matco, etc.
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