I used a basic recall checker online that checks via the VIN.
What is the CLB? (Column Lock B?)
I actually ordered the LMC5 last week just in case, but if GM will fix it at their cost I will do that instead.

 

I have a 98 automatic that had the recall(the steering wheel did not lock with key out) and the problem reoccurred. I bought and installed the LMC5 and all is well. Great instructions and easy install.

 

This is the electrical design of the C5 Steering wheel soleniod and it shows how the LMC5 (in light gray) replaces the stock design. I got this from Rich at Compliance Parts prior to receiving the LMC5 Kit. Following it help me understand what I was installing and took the fear of installing an aftermarket item thay may affect the C5's driveability.
With this I could see that Rich's design was better than all the other fixes down stream of the BCM.. Good luck it really helped me understand Rich's design.

 

Actually my car is a 2000. And I did not see the relay and never did this step. I told Rich this and he said it was not needed even if I did have the relay. He said that power would not go to the relay with the LMC5 installed anyway.

 

Not a big deal. You're only human. Lol.

 

I installed the LMC5 in my 2004 M6 car as I didn't want to get stranded. The column worked as it was supposed to but I didn't trust it. After I installed it I would get the pull key and 2 mph shutoff ever once in a while. Called Rich and he sent me the LMC5R. From what Rich said it is not better than the LMC5 but some bcm's don't like the LMC5 and the "R" satisifies these picky bcm's.
I just put it in yesterday but so far I can't get it to give me a message. I think its good to go now but if I ever my car tuned I will ask to have the 2mph shutoff changed.

 

Went to the dealer today to pick up part that they of course ordered wrong. :toe tap:
I got a printout of the recalls preformed. It appears it was done. They replaced the harness.

Do I still need the LMC5? Everything operates as is should meaning the wheel locks in place with the key out.

 

I realize this thread got confusing and I apologize if I hijacked it...

Are you thinking that the printout indicates they put a harness in for an M6?
I am wondering if I need to install the LMC5 at all.

 

Yes you still need the LMC5, all of the GM fixes, except the physical PLATE, your solenoid still can lock up. Don't waste your time installing the GM fixes. Read these problems other C5 vette owners are having, most of not all have 1 or 2 or 3 fixes from GM and got stranded. GM did not address the problem correctly. I had the "Y" cable, I got Stranded, why, solenoid still locked up.

The LMC5 eliminates the solenoid from the wiring design, the LMC5 becomes the new circuit that tells the BCM that an (imagenary solenoid & 2 mile gas shut off is working) so you DON"T HAVE to deal with that solenoid or the gas shut off anymore.

You can do what you want, but I would just install the LMC5 and be done with it forever. Again the last fix from GM is a PHYSICAL plate they remove and installs a NEW plate WITH NO HOLE for the solenoid to lock up into, the solenoid still trys but nothing happens, but it doesn't address the 2 mile fuel cut off, so you can drive, but within 2 miles, the fuel shuts off and your die a few feet forward... Get the LMC5.

If your worried, call Richard at "Compliance Parts", he is an engineer and can answer all and any question regarding the "Steering Column Lock", believe me he is an expert.

Heres the web site: http://complianceparts.com/index.html

 

My Dad's 1999 C5 is having this problem. This thread is about 2 1/2 years old now, has anyone that did this fix have any issues in the last 2 1/2 years?

 

There are numerous more recent threads on the LMC5. Suggest you find one in 2014.

I installed my LMC5 about 3 months ago. Had a problem for first day. Called Rick at Compliance and made some small changes in the installation. No problems since then. 8VETTE7 is the expert on this subject on the Forum.

 

I installed the LMC5 on my 02 as a preventative measure, and then got the "pull key and wait..." message. I talked to the company and was given the suggestion to wait at the on position until I had the odometer showing then go to start. I haven't had the message since. I didn't do the additional brown wire step.