Installing Pfadt coilovers
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,894
Likes: 981
From: Whitby Ont.
Installing Pfadt coilovers
Have a small problem I am sure someone can help me out,installing my Pfadt coilovers,first there is no poly insert to go ontop of the shock mount,only the polly collar,so I put that on,place the washer on top and try and tighten the nut,the collar/spacer has different size hole at each end and mentions nothing in instructions about that,anyway, when I tighten the washer down 6 times already, the polly collar/spacer keeps squirting out the side,no matter what i try, I can t get it to compress properly, any ideas,thoughts,or opinions would be appreciated.
Thanks Al
Thanks Al
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,894
Likes: 981
From: Whitby Ont.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Proper sequence of install are shown in these pictures on the front.
From the top.
Nut,washer black poly bushing #P 1374.
Orientation of the bushing is the smaller hole goes towards the top.
Grey plastic ball goes on the bottom side of the shock mount.
Note there is a lip on the plastic ball that seats into the hole on the bottom shock mount. (Very important, that it is seated properly)
Same rubber bushing & orientation for the rears.
From the top.
Nut,washer black poly bushing #P 1374.
Orientation of the bushing is the smaller hole goes towards the top.
Grey plastic ball goes on the bottom side of the shock mount.
Note there is a lip on the plastic ball that seats into the hole on the bottom shock mount. (Very important, that it is seated properly)
Same rubber bushing & orientation for the rears.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,894
Likes: 981
From: Whitby Ont.
yes,working on front, that is the # I used, and did install the small hole to the top,the ball is a black one,color is no matter and held it in place and jacked the control arm up to secure it in place and compress the spring as much as possible to start the nut, when i do get the nut started, the bushing squirts out from under the washer 
I almost had it once, but when i was toquing it down, the whole shaft started turning. I am at witts end, the other side is the same,cannot contain the poly bushing,I tried the factory washer on top,it is bigger, but definaltley can t start the nut. Everything I read says it is simple, I had an easier time installing cam and heads.
I almost had it once, but when i was toquing it down, the whole shaft started turning. I am at witts end, the other side is the same,cannot contain the poly bushing,I tried the factory washer on top,it is bigger, but definaltley can t start the nut. Everything I read says it is simple, I had an easier time installing cam and heads.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Try this.
Leave the bottom of c/over out of it's mount.
have no tension on the c/over spring, between the lower locking ring & upper spring perch.
Work from within the wheel well area. (not the top side)
Hold the plastic ball in place with one hand & start the upper nut with your other hand... working the nut on from the gap you see from within the wheel well area.
Once the nut is started & every thing is buttoned back up, you then lower the front onto the weight of the wheel & tires.
You will then be able to see more threads & torque to 75 inch /lbs
Leave the bottom of c/over out of it's mount.
have no tension on the c/over spring, between the lower locking ring & upper spring perch.
Work from within the wheel well area. (not the top side)
Hold the plastic ball in place with one hand & start the upper nut with your other hand... working the nut on from the gap you see from within the wheel well area.
Once the nut is started & every thing is buttoned back up, you then lower the front onto the weight of the wheel & tires.
You will then be able to see more threads & torque to 75 inch /lbs
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,894
Likes: 981
From: Whitby Ont.
Try this.
Leave the bottom of c/over out of it's mount.
have no tension on the c/over spring, between the lower locking ring & upper spring perch.
Work from within the wheel well area. (not the top side)
Hold the plastic ball in place with one hand & start the upper nut with your other hand... working the nut on from the gap you see from within the wheel well area.
Once the nut is started & every thing is buttoned back up, you then lower the front onto the weight of the wheel & tires.
You will then be able to see more threads & torque to 75 inch /lbs
Leave the bottom of c/over out of it's mount.
have no tension on the c/over spring, between the lower locking ring & upper spring perch.
Work from within the wheel well area. (not the top side)
Hold the plastic ball in place with one hand & start the upper nut with your other hand... working the nut on from the gap you see from within the wheel well area.
Once the nut is started & every thing is buttoned back up, you then lower the front onto the weight of the wheel & tires.
You will then be able to see more threads & torque to 75 inch /lbs
I don t believe that can work, only because I have to jack the controll arm up to get enough of the shaft to come up through the bushing to start the nut, only way I see that to happen is undo the top locking ring,and screw the body out of the top and secure the top that way and then reatatch the body to the top and reset the preload to its previous position. That all done, still does not stop the bushing under the washer from squirting out, needs to be a cup to go over the top of the bushing instead of the washer to contain it.
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas, originally from San Angelo, TX
This is the correct method.
Try this.
Leave the bottom of c/over out of it's mount.
have no tension on the c/over spring, between the lower locking ring & upper spring perch.
Work from within the wheel well area. (not the top side)
Hold the plastic ball in place with one hand & start the upper nut with your other hand... working the nut on from the gap you see from within the wheel well area.
Once the nut is started & every thing is buttoned back up, you then lower the front onto the weight of the wheel & tires.
You will then be able to see more threads & torque to 75 inch /lbs
Leave the bottom of c/over out of it's mount.
have no tension on the c/over spring, between the lower locking ring & upper spring perch.
Work from within the wheel well area. (not the top side)
Hold the plastic ball in place with one hand & start the upper nut with your other hand... working the nut on from the gap you see from within the wheel well area.
Once the nut is started & every thing is buttoned back up, you then lower the front onto the weight of the wheel & tires.
You will then be able to see more threads & torque to 75 inch /lbs
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas, originally from San Angelo, TX
Installing the upper mounts on the new inverted PFADTs is done in much the same method as with the older single adjustable PFADTS, so you actually would be of some help here my friend. You shouldn't sell yourself short like that....lol!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
I installed a set of the newer SA feather lights last summer.
They are so much better design than the older style/last generations.
There is no way you could possibly break the top shock shaft (1/2")
No more double spanner wrenches to bust your knuckles, to get the ride height.
And so easy to set the shock settings, there on the bottom.
No more hole in the trunk & allen wrench for the rears.
No more removing the washer & coolant tanks for front shock settings.
I sold my older set last winter.
I had the newer style bushings for the top fronts & rears.
I can't remember if you still had to use the small black poly base under the newer style front black bushings?
They are so much better design than the older style/last generations.
There is no way you could possibly break the top shock shaft (1/2")
No more double spanner wrenches to bust your knuckles, to get the ride height.
And so easy to set the shock settings, there on the bottom.
No more hole in the trunk & allen wrench for the rears.
No more removing the washer & coolant tanks for front shock settings.
I sold my older set last winter.
I had the newer style bushings for the top fronts & rears.
I can't remember if you still had to use the small black poly base under the newer style front black bushings?
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas, originally from San Angelo, TX
I did the same here. The new BOA inverted feather-lights are without question much more user friendly, but I am seeing zero performance gain where it counts on the road course (going from the older delrin socket SA coilovers to the new inverted feather lights). As long as the upper mount can articulate properly (care of the delrin socket style upper) you shouldn't see any broken shafts with the older SAs. Most of the broken shaft issues are caused by installers over-torquing the older spade-style upper mounts thereby hindering any articulation and stressing the shaft upon compression. I have seen plenty of "bullet proof" clevis style upper mounts come apart as well.
I installed a set of the newer SA feather lights last summer.
They are so much better design than the older style/last generations.
There is no way you could possibly break the top shock shaft (1/2")
No more double spanner wrenches to bust your knuckles, to get the ride height.
And so easy to set the shock settings, there on the bottom.
No more hole in the trunk & allen wrench for the rears.
No more removing the washer & coolant tanks for front shock settings.
I sold my older set last winter.
I had the newer style bushings for the top fronts & rears.
I can't remember if you still had to use the small black poly base under the newer style front black bushings?
They are so much better design than the older style/last generations.
There is no way you could possibly break the top shock shaft (1/2")
No more double spanner wrenches to bust your knuckles, to get the ride height.
And so easy to set the shock settings, there on the bottom.
No more hole in the trunk & allen wrench for the rears.
No more removing the washer & coolant tanks for front shock settings.
I sold my older set last winter.
I had the newer style bushings for the top fronts & rears.
I can't remember if you still had to use the small black poly base under the newer style front black bushings?
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,926
Likes: 30
From: Not where I want to be!!
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19
Thanks, didn't know they were that similar. This is my first time installing coil overs so it's a learning experience for me as well.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,724
Likes: 9
OP - Thanks for getting in contact with us on this. Your setup does look like it's been on the shelf for quite a while. One of our engineers is working to resolve your install troubles via email. Let me know if you need anything else!