Colder thermostat
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 968
Likes: 12
From: Regina Sask
Put a 160*F stat, as it will run 172*F - 180*F on the highway. A 180*F stat runs 190*F + (stock) on the highway.
With a 160*F stat, my oil temps are over 200*F, so much for the myth that the condensation won't by drawn off by the pcv.
But verify that your a/c condensor & radiator are clean as mentioned.
Russ Kemp
With a 160*F stat, my oil temps are over 200*F, so much for the myth that the condensation won't by drawn off by the pcv.
But verify that your a/c condensor & radiator are clean as mentioned.
Russ Kemp
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
The colder thermo allows the coolant to run from the block to the radiator at a lower temp than the stock thermo does. Same thing is happening, but at a lower temp. If it gets to cool, the thermo starts to close, if it gets to hot, the fan comes on. Its exactly like the normal operation but instead of the thermo opening at 200 degrees and the fan coming on at 210 or 215ish, the thermo opens earlier and the fan is set to come on sooner.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Put a 160*F stat, as it will run 172*F - 180*F on the highway. A 180*F stat runs 190*F + (stock) on the highway.
With a 160*F stat, my oil temps are over 200*F, so much for the myth that the condensation won't by drawn off by the pcv.
But verify that your a/c condensor & radiator are clean as mentioned.
Russ Kemp
With a 160*F stat, my oil temps are over 200*F, so much for the myth that the condensation won't by drawn off by the pcv.
But verify that your a/c condensor & radiator are clean as mentioned.
Russ Kemp
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,798
Likes: 8
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
Considering a 170° stat. I have a 180 and it ran about 190, never got over 196. Switched to a 160 and the car runs 170 to 178. Still a little cool for me. I want 180 to 185 so a 170 stat should get there.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
That might be more along the lines of what Im looking for. I don't want to cold. I wasn't aware there was a 170 offered. I'll look into it.
Corvette Cowboy
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,852
Likes: 23
From: Cen-Cal Broke A$$ Kalifornia
Changing the T-STAT is a waste of money in my book and a lot of others make sure you have a good T-STAT and that you have a good mix of Water 2 Coolant. I added Redline Water Wetter and cleaned my Radiator and Condenser. I live where there is a lot of dust after doing this my temps dropped 20 deg. and my car runs 183-210 with A/C on full and outside temps in the high 90's
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Like I said, my tuner recommended it, so i think its the thing to do. Like I said, It will only be around 20 bucks to do. Not a big deal. I think the 160 is too cold, the 180 sounds like it acts like the stock one, and the 170 seems like a happy medium. Think Ill go with that. I appreciate everyone's input.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 2
From: pawleys island sc
[QUOTE=CCA Corvette Parts;1581081828]How?
Fluid is being exchanged - Open is Open - Anything over the TStat temp
is radiator to block - block to radiator... does not matter what temp it opened at if the temp is over the opening ...
Peace
Chip[/QUOTE
all you guys that think lowering the thermo temp will allow the car to run colder, think about this : if the thermo controls operating temp, then REMOVING the thermo ( the same thing as installing a " 0 degree" thermo ) should make the car run at ambient temp.IT WON'T !!
Lowering the thermo temp ONLY establishes when the thermo opens, not the engines operating temp.
there's a whole lot of other things that effect the engine's operating temp.
It might help if you think of a thermo as a switch - once it reaches its op temp, its on. Its passive not active.Expecting it to "control" the op temp is like expecting a standard light switch to deterrmine the brightnees of the light bulb it controls.
To the op, leave tour thermo alone.
Fluid is being exchanged - Open is Open - Anything over the TStat temp
is radiator to block - block to radiator... does not matter what temp it opened at if the temp is over the opening ...
Peace
Chip[/QUOTE
all you guys that think lowering the thermo temp will allow the car to run colder, think about this : if the thermo controls operating temp, then REMOVING the thermo ( the same thing as installing a " 0 degree" thermo ) should make the car run at ambient temp.IT WON'T !!Lowering the thermo temp ONLY establishes when the thermo opens, not the engines operating temp.
there's a whole lot of other things that effect the engine's operating temp.
It might help if you think of a thermo as a switch - once it reaches its op temp, its on. Its passive not active.Expecting it to "control" the op temp is like expecting a standard light switch to deterrmine the brightnees of the light bulb it controls.
To the op, leave tour thermo alone.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,182
Likes: 4,178
From: Kannapolis NC
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Well Gentlemen, everyone that uses a cooler thermo reports lower temps. So It obviously does work. And the link to the discussion on too low of temps is exactly why I do not want to go to cool. I will do a 170 or 180 degree with a little more research.
Keep in mind: I live in southern California with summer now here, and I have modifications to my car and a dyno tune that has the tuner suggesting a cooler thermo. I think it is the thing to do.
Also, taking the thermo completely out is not a good idea at all and is not a substitute for a lower opening temp thermo.
Keep in mind: I live in southern California with summer now here, and I have modifications to my car and a dyno tune that has the tuner suggesting a cooler thermo. I think it is the thing to do.
Also, taking the thermo completely out is not a good idea at all and is not a substitute for a lower opening temp thermo.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,798
Likes: 8
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
Removing the thermostat will overheat your car. Not run it cooler. The stat slows the water down allowing it stay in contact with the cylinder walls long enough for the heat transfer to occur.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 560
Likes: 3
From: Centennial Colorado
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,055
Likes: 864
From: So Cal
My understanding is that one can achieve a little more horsepower from running a colder t-stat and lower the engine operating temps slightly. Lingenfelter apparently often uses 160 t-stats in highly modified and or supercharged engines. My only question is whether an individual tuner really has that level of expertise. Also, is the engine in question modified enough to warrant that type type of significant modification to the designed engine parameters.
On these modern engines it is only safe with a sophisticated retune for that particular thermostat. There are so many factors at work here that one shouldn't go to the lower t-stat & accompanying tune unless there is complete confidence in the tuner.
If the resulting tune and new t-stat yields lower operating temps than original engineering design for complex engines like the LS series, one should definitely be on the safe side and change oil NLT every 3,000 miles.
Oil contaminants burn off properly at certain designed temp bands and even a perfect tune for the lower t-stat will not overcome that simple fact.
On these modern engines it is only safe with a sophisticated retune for that particular thermostat. There are so many factors at work here that one shouldn't go to the lower t-stat & accompanying tune unless there is complete confidence in the tuner.
If the resulting tune and new t-stat yields lower operating temps than original engineering design for complex engines like the LS series, one should definitely be on the safe side and change oil NLT every 3,000 miles.
Oil contaminants burn off properly at certain designed temp bands and even a perfect tune for the lower t-stat will not overcome that simple fact.
Last edited by B747VET; Jun 16, 2012 at 02:44 PM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 560
Likes: 3
From: Centennial Colorado
I'm not sure after reading your comments that you do. If you want your temps lower, swapping your stat out won't do it, adjusting the "on" temp of your fans will, but not address the cause of why they are getting high to start with. Others have given you good advice, but it seems you are sold on changing yours out. It's a 15 minute job if nothing goes wrong. 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
LOL...um no...I understand thermostat operation. I'm not sure after reading your comments that you do. If you want your temps lower, swapping your stat out won't do it, adjusting the "on" temp of your fans will, but not address the cause of why they are getting high to start with. Others have given you good advice, but it seems you are sold on changing yours out. It's a 15 minute job if nothing goes wrong.
I'm not sure after reading your comments that you do. If you want your temps lower, swapping your stat out won't do it, adjusting the "on" temp of your fans will, but not address the cause of why they are getting high to start with. Others have given you good advice, but it seems you are sold on changing yours out. It's a 15 minute job if nothing goes wrong.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
My understanding is that one can achieve a little more horsepower from running a colder t-stat and lower the engine operating temps slightly. Lingenfelter apparently often uses 160 t-stats in highly modified and or supercharged engines. My only question is whether an individual tuner really has that level of expertise. Also, is the engine in question modified enough to warrant that type type of significant modification to the designed engine parameters.
On these modern engines it is only safe with a sophisticated retune for that particular thermostat. There are so many factors at work here that one shouldn't go to the lower t-stat & accompanying tune unless there is complete confidence in the tuner.
If the resulting tune and new t-stat yields lower operating temps than original engineering design for complex engines like the LS series, one should definitely be on the safe side and change oil NLT every 3,000 miles.
Oil contaminants burn off properly at certain designed temp bands and even a perfect tune for the lower t-stat will not overcome that simple fact.
On these modern engines it is only safe with a sophisticated retune for that particular thermostat. There are so many factors at work here that one shouldn't go to the lower t-stat & accompanying tune unless there is complete confidence in the tuner.
If the resulting tune and new t-stat yields lower operating temps than original engineering design for complex engines like the LS series, one should definitely be on the safe side and change oil NLT every 3,000 miles.
Oil contaminants burn off properly at certain designed temp bands and even a perfect tune for the lower t-stat will not overcome that simple fact.