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Hi guys,, been noticing a slight coolant smell for a couple of days now, and finally found a leak. Its just 1 inch infront of the upper rad hose on the side of the rad, on the plastic tank. Theres a hairline crack that i can see now that collant is dripping from it. My question is can this be plastic welded? Or can the side tank be replaced without a recore? The rad otherwise looks mint. I dont understand how this could have happened. Should i try the stop leak stuff? Bringing a car to any rad shop is just asking to get screwed...The car has a manual tranny,,,cheers!!
Does it always leak or just when its running and there is pressure in the system? If it doesn't leak when the car is off, you can dry it and use an epoxy to attempt to seal the area. Give it plenty of time to cure, and run the car and look for leaks.
I just bought a DeWitts radiator and should have it installed next week. I'm with the other guys on this, buy a stock one, or a performance one, if you feel the need.
I just bought a DeWitts radiator and should have it installed next week. I'm with the other guys on this, buy a stock one, or a performance one, if you feel the need.
Steve A.
I dunno where you live, I am in Florida, but I just added the upgraded fans to my Dewitts those suckers move some air
Good to know. I ordered those too. Do you happen to know the weight difference?
thanks,
no but I would think they are about the same...I had them installed during the build so I never had my hands on them....the guy who did the install said it was direct fit plug and play couldn't believe it
Ok!! Well, the leak is on the very top, and it doesnt leak when cold.. I could try the epoxy i guess, i just have to pull off the upper hose and i can get to it from there with my finger. I can actually try to seal it from the inside...and if thats a no-go,,, i guess an aftermarket rad will do just fine!..thanks
if you get an aftermarket, try to find something made in the USA or Japan. the china rads i've seen for various cars, unless they are solid aluminum have some pretty cheesy crimps on the plastic tanks. does koyo or any big brand like that make an aftermarket rad? their stuff is a direct oem copy in most cases
my personal vote is with dewitts, griffin etc. quality is outstanding and you never worry on a road trip through the desert or on a track day
Ok!! Well, the leak is on the very top, and it doesnt leak when cold.. I could try the epoxy i guess, i just have to pull off the upper hose and i can get to it from there with my finger. I can actually try to seal it from the inside...and if thats a no-go,,, i guess an aftermarket rad will do just fine!..thanks
Just remember, there is a right and a wrong way to do things. Epoxy can work, but it is not the right way. It is however worth a try and cheap.
Well I found out today that I also have a crack in the same place. I was going to big bear and going up the hill when i got to 239 degrees. It climbed to 252 and i pulled over. I let it cool down then I went back down the hill and went home. I checked it out and a hairline crack in the top on the plastic end. I think I'm going to get an alluminum radiator for it. I wouldn't mess with trying to epoxy it. I tried to do that on my surge tank and a day later it would be leaking again. I just replaced it. If it isn't one thing its another. I really hate the newer cars with the plastic ends on the rads.
I just had the exact same hairline crack develop on mine the other week! What a way to return from a deployment. I considered epoxy myself but was told to try and plastic weld the crack. Bought a kit at Harbor Freight and gave it a try. The leak improved, but did not hold under pressue. I agree with having the peace of mind and ordered a stock replacement. An aluminum rad is out of my reach right now.
yes i just did On my c5 saturday, because i had to drive 350 miles to atlanta on sunday. it had three pin holes from my nitrous nozzle being to close i removed it because i now have a plate. i use jb weld the quick one that cures in 15 hours sets it 6 hours, rated to 2400 psi. but in 5 mins it was dry. i brought the weld and more fluid with me i didnt have to use either.700 miles later and nothing. i did run about 80ish the whole way.
This recently happened to me as well. Crack in the same exact place. It wouldn't leak while driving but once I stopped it was like a flood. After searching the net like crazy I ended up picking up a radiator from oreilly's and of course it is the wrong one. The radiator was about $200 bucks so I was happy until I found out that the right side of some of the aftermarket ones said they fit my 2002 A4 but in fact did not. I ended up finding one oem from a chevy dealer for 5 bills after calling 20 or 25 dealerships in the state of Texas. But it slipped right in after some finessing and now it runs like a champ. In my opinion just find an oem one online or at a dealer or spend a little more and get the dewitts. I would have done this but only had a day before I had to get back on the road so was in a bit of a time crunch. Sorry that it happened to you too though!