hey guys,

so i'm a new c5 owner and already wanting more power..... found someone with a motor they want to sell but i really would love help knowing what's a good deal and if this is a good fit for me.

the car is a c5 vert with a p1 procharger on it with shorty headers and corsa mufflers.

i'd like to make more power but now sure if i should do heads/cam/intake and pulley tune or motor pulley tune etc...

what i know about the motor from the seller.

all parts were bought brand new and i guess the motor was used for edelbrock to dyno test intakes.

ls6 block stock bore
forged manley pistons
forged scat crank
afr 205 heads but the heads say 15 0 on them which i think are 225 heads
tony mamo blowe cam 114 lsa comp 224/228 581/588
slp high flow high cap oil pump
dual roller timing chain

no intake but said he would give me a ls6 intake

also i'm thinking i would go fast 102 intake and 102 t/b but is that really better if it's boosted?????



so my question is what is a great deal on this motor? also would this be ok for boosted and i guess to what point do you think?

this is all i know about the motor, pretty sure it's stock 10.5 compression

really really grateful for some help and ideas.

down the road i would like to be able to get a bigger blower and really make 750+whp .......

thanks again and happy to have the c5

 

anyone with any help?

 

Just a few comments...

Why shorties?

You should really clear up this discrepancy if you're aiming for a serious build.

Yeah, definitely. The intake/TB becomes the bottleneck in these engines once the heads and cam have been upgraded.

You'll want to be 100% sure about the compression ratio before boosting the engine to the amount that you'll need to reach that power level.

 

i don't know why he installed shorties, im guessing it was cheaper. i would want to do 1 7/8 long tubes if i buy a/the motor.

thank you for the help and advice.

what would you say the max safe power range would be with forged internals on stock compression levels?

 

If the seller does not have documentation or history verifying his claims, the engine is not worth any more than any other used LS6 in running condition (assuming it runs) would be. At the very least you should look the the casting number on the block and verify that it is a post 2001 LS1/LS6 block.

As far as your ultimate goal is concerned, 750 RWHP out of a stock block 346 is a very lofty goal. I hope you are prepared to spend (waste) lots of money.

 

so if you had to throw out a price what would you say?

 

You don't get it do you? It would be idiotic of me or anyone else on this forum to give you a price without seeing the engine and/or physically verifying at least some of the sellers claims. I suggest you call some salvage yards in your area and inquire about pricing on a used post 2001 LS1/6 (same block).

 

got it. thanks

 

theres many variables in pricing used engines. mileage, how its been cared for, how it was used or abused, racing or a daily driver are a few considerations when pricing a engine.

having said that upgrades cost money. forged pistons start at about 125 bucks each then up depending on brand. a good cam kit (cam, valve springs, push rods, timing gear set and chain) will run about $1300, heads and head work aint cheap either. a good hand port job will run around $500, if its a cnc port itll cost more. not counting the cost of the head. ARP bolts aint cheap considering its just a damn bolt, granted its a much better bolt but in the end its a damn bolt. i had to replace my LS6 block, i got a brand new unfinished block for $800. the machine work to hone and finish bores was about 200 more. the intake...well a good LS6 intake and Tb will run you around 250, your gonna hafta have injectors and a fuel rail too thats not included. does it come with the coil packs?

hope this helps you decide what you need to pay for the engine.