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I know the simple rule of thumb is that "it depends on the tune" but, don't have any experience with this type of mod. Just wondering what one could/should expect with this. Since GM didn't intend on the LS1/6 to be 383ci or the LS3 to be 416cis. It's a lot more air space in the cylinders so obviously more fuel will be needed but was wondering if there were any driveability issues or such to come from this mod. From I've noticed the mod that causes the most radical change is a cam. Any and all experienced guys and gals chime in. Thanks
I know the simple rule of thumb is that "it depends on the tune" but, don't have any experience with this type of mod. Just wondering what one could/should expect with this. Since GM didn't intend on the LS1/6 to be 383ci or the LS3 to be 416cis. It's a lot more air space in the cylinders so obviously more fuel will be needed but was wondering if there were any driveability issues or such to come from this mod. From I've noticed the mod that causes the most radical change is a cam. Any and all experienced guys and gals chime in. Thanks
-Alex
None unless you dont like more power. But really with more gas and bigger CI motor. You will drop 2 or 3 miles per gallon that is about it other than the money it cost you to get the car to what ever rwhp you are looking at to get too. 973 rwhp and 837 rwtq and drive it ever day driver and can go any place I want to go in it.. Robert
On the building side, there is the potential to run into bigger problems if it is not built right or checked right while begin built. You need to be more aware of clearances as an example.
However, if you are having a reputable builder build the engine, there should be no downsides other than possibly a couple MPGs less, which is usually due to controlling the throttle more than the engines efficiency. Just one thing to keep in mind, is most people overcam their cars. The best engines are usually built around the cam(s).
My builder did not want to build me a 383 because he does not like the bore being smaller than the stroke of the engine. Not that he would not if I wanted him to but it was his opinion not what he would do if it were his car. The 383 would work and most likely be fine just not what he would do with the ls1 in a boosted application. Now a stroked Ls2 402 is fair game and that would make a nice square engine.
u will lose some rev range going to a stroker. more stroke = more piston speed relative to rpm. but the trade off will be more bottom-mid torque/power from the larger displacement. longer stroke will be a lil bit harder on rod bearings over time, but nothing serious. on a oem ls1 stroke, 92mm @ 6500 rpm piston speed is about 65.3 fps , on a 383 stroker, 101.6 mm stroke @ 5900 rpm piston speed is about 65.5 fps. piston speed directly effects engine performance, cam, intake, exhaust etc. crank rotation speed is a byproduct.
The only real problem I have with the 427 (4in strokex4.125 bore Darton Sleeved LS2) is:
"Erections lasting more than 4 hours need immediate medical attention"
I limit my driving to 3 hours 59 minutes at a time.
Originally Posted by MX621
u will lose some rev range going to a stroker. more stroke = more piston speed relative to rpm. but the trade off will be more bottom-mid torque/power from the larger displacement. longer stroke will be a lil bit harder on rod bearings over time, but nothing serious. on a oem ls1 stroke, 92mm @ 6500 rpm piston speed is about 65.3 fps , on a 383 stroker, 101.6 mm stroke @ 5900 rpm piston speed is about 65.5 fps. piston speed directly effects engine performance, cam, intake, exhaust etc. crank rotation speed is a byproduct.
My builder did not want to build me a 383 because he does not like the bore being smaller than the stroke of the engine.
Long stroke smaller bore (under square) engines have been kicking *** in the engine masters challenge. EMC
The 496 in my Nova is essentially square, and happily spins to 7500.....
The thinking is old school.
You can buy such good parts now that strength just isn't an issue. Perhaps for an endurance engine, yes. But for our street cars, torque is king. Cam it up a bit and improve the heads, you can have both!
Love the responses guys, keep'em coming. One inquiry though about the forged internals being "too heavy", aren't forged items supposed to be lighter than non? Or are the parts physically larger? I would think a forged connecting rods would be smaller to allow increased space in the chambers right?
I built a 383 Stroker for my 72 Camaro and I'm here to tell you there is NO down side to a Stroker. I bought a built short block from a reliable builder and it ran better than great. If I had the cash I would put one in my Z06 in a heartbeat.
Ok, I know these might be a highly combustable questions (so i am getting my flame suit on), so here I go:
1) Is there a way to square up a ls1 engine (both bigger stroke and bore) even if it is bigger then 383 while keeping the engine reliable?
2) Is there a cheaper way to do this?
3) Is there a good kit out there for this?
4) How will this work for a Maggie?
(Side note: I am asking these questions because the car isnt a racer, but a weekender. Even when driven on the weekend, it isnt hammered on constantly. Every now and then the car it given a push, but not that much and not that long. So my mentality is why build a race engine if you arent racing, or build it bullet proof if it isnt taking a beating. Sure build it good but dont over build where it becomes wasted money. Ie: If I can build a widget that does the operations for 15 dollars or one that will act and perform the same way for 10 dollars, why not build the 10 dollar widget and then you have 5 dollars to spend on something else)
Dont worry about feather light components. Sure light can be better at least on the piston ends of things but at a point you cross of hp/rpm you may need heavier componenets for sheer strength.
The rods and pistons Im using in this stroker are way heavier than the light pistons and light I beams I used in the shorter stroke motor.
Guess what, no difference in rev speed and will take any amount of rpm all day long.
All that Short stroke revs quicker garbage is just that..garbage. Probably by guys that couldnt tune thier engines.
Stroke that puppy, youll never build small again promise.
The 383 I built will walk ALL OVER the former 350 all day long no comparison. If done right that little bit of extra stroke can make it feel like you added a 100+ shot. Its that big a difference.
Only advantage of a short stroke motor I can think of is possibly a road course type scenario where you are reeeeealy pumping out sustained high rs thats about it.
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