Idler Pully Problem
Thread Starter
TheCorvetteBen
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 144
From: Van Alstyne, TX
Idler Pully Problem
So my C5 has the dreaded belt squeak, and in an attempt to cure this, I decided to replace my idler pulley for the main drive belt. I swore that this would have been an easy remove and replace job, but I think somewhere along the line I did something wrong.
The problem that I have now, is that when I tighten the pulley, it will no longer freely turn, and then when the belt is installed and the engine started, the belt turns the pulley until the bolt comes out, the pulley falls off, and the belt gets thrown.
So questions:
1. Does anyone have a diagram that shows what direction the pulley spacers are supposed to be?
2.The bolt is like a normal bolt right? Clock-wise to tighten and opposite to loosen...
3. Should the pulley be tightened all the way down like all the other pulleys? Or just hand tight?
dumb questions I know. Gotta learn somehow.
The problem that I have now, is that when I tighten the pulley, it will no longer freely turn, and then when the belt is installed and the engine started, the belt turns the pulley until the bolt comes out, the pulley falls off, and the belt gets thrown.
So questions:
1. Does anyone have a diagram that shows what direction the pulley spacers are supposed to be?
2.The bolt is like a normal bolt right? Clock-wise to tighten and opposite to loosen...
3. Should the pulley be tightened all the way down like all the other pulleys? Or just hand tight?
dumb questions I know. Gotta learn somehow.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,798
Likes: 8
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
If it is one of the steel pullies I had a similar issue with the washer. The bearings were the same so I pressed out the new bearing with a socket and vise then pressed it in to the the old pulley. It worked fine
Pro
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 692
Likes: 13
From: Lithia Springs Georgia
When you installed the pulley did it have both the front and back washers on it? Torque spec is 37 ft. lbs. (I just did mine by hand though)
When my belt(s) were squealing (think it was the a/c belt), I replaced both belts and tensioners. No more noise. My idlers were good (76,000 miles) I just cleaned, oiled, and re-installed them.
When my belt(s) were squealing (think it was the a/c belt), I replaced both belts and tensioners. No more noise. My idlers were good (76,000 miles) I just cleaned, oiled, and re-installed them.
Thread Starter
TheCorvetteBen
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 144
From: Van Alstyne, TX
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 147
Likes: 1
From: Nazareth PA
Just replaced mine after it couldn't handle the new SC install
Maybe a bad pulley? Got my stock ACDelco replacement from GMPartswharehouse for around $55 , it should have a front dust shield and a large rear washer. If it ain't turning after you tighten it to 37ft lbs get a new one.
Maybe a bad pulley? Got my stock ACDelco replacement from GMPartswharehouse for around $55 , it should have a front dust shield and a large rear washer. If it ain't turning after you tighten it to 37ft lbs get a new one.
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
I replaced mine with a Gates unit, and had to leave the stock dust shield off because of interference like you describe. The bolt itself should touch nothing other than the inner part of the bearing. Take a close look and you should be able to figure out what's interfering.
Thread Starter
TheCorvetteBen
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 144
From: Van Alstyne, TX
Got the problem solved guys. Turns out that it was the new pulley that I had. Didn't agree with the stock dust shield at all. The outer edge was rubbing on the pulley, causing it not to spin freely, which in turn backed the bolt out, making it all fall apart. So for the next person who has this problem, check and make sure the dust shield does not limit travel. It is always annoying when the new replacement part isnt as good as the old one.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
I had to add a washer to mine to not allow it to bind upon tightening
New pulley was slightly different than OEM one. Used original dust shield but the bearing was slightly depressed and if tightened it would bind.
Added one washer and that solved the problem. $18 at AutoZone plus one washer a lot cheaper than the $65 GM part.
Added one washer and that solved the problem. $18 at AutoZone plus one washer a lot cheaper than the $65 GM part.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
my next experment will be with dorman redisign/their pulley comes with a bushing to make a shaft for bearing to ride on/cannot get bushing separately anywhere it will be a $40 experment to buy 2 pulleys I do not need to ge 2 bushings I do