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Someone close this thread before The War of the T-stat starts... Lol
Do a search, it's been debated for at least 10 years...
Currently on my phone and have not had much luck using it to search. Of course when you bring up an old thread people complain because it was older. If deemed needed it can be closed out, if thermostats start that much of a war.
Currently on my phone and have not had much luck using it to search. Of course when you bring up an old thread people complain because it was older. If deemed needed it can be closed out, if thermostats start that much of a war.
It's an old argument and it's divided. You'll get 10 reasons why you should and 10 reasons why you shouldn't. When you can search online just go to C5 Tech, C5 Z06, C5 General, C# anything... Put in "160". You'll get more than you ever bargained for.
You really have to read the arguments and see which camp you fall into.
It's an old argument and it's divided. You'll get 10 reasons why you should and 10 reasons why you shouldn't. When you can search online just go to C5 Tech, C5 Z06, C5 General, C# anything... Put in "160". You'll get more than you ever bargained for.
You really have to read the arguments and see which camp you fall into.
Got mine for my dads 04 C5Z from Maryland Speed was like 20-25$ can't remember it was a while ago. Helps them from getting heat soaked IMO, usually you can get more timing with them. Which means more HP typically
Is the 160 thermostat worth the 65 bucks they cost? Thought they ran around 20.
I purchased a new 160 Duralast thermostat last March of 2012 for $31.00 at AutoZone for my 02 Z06, and it did include the new housing...while changing the thermostat I also had the Original Dex Cool coolant professionally flush out at a shop and replaced with Peak Gold Global....but that's a another debate that I won't get into.
Unless Danica comes with the Peak I'll just stick to my DexCool and stock t-stat
Agreed. I believe that DexCool is safe as long as it never gets compromised. My DexCool still looked brand new and was rust free when it was drained after 10 years...and my original gaskets are still holding strong...I just wanted to take the compromise out of the equation.
Then do it. I have lg long tubes, high flow cats, x pipe, stock ti's and a vararam , I drove one season with out a tune and she ran up to 220 on a hot day sitting at a light, added a thermostat and got a tune she now runs about 195 at a light on a very hot day like 98 degrees, and a driving temp around 185 and around 178- 180 on a 80-85 degree day
Steve
Last edited by machz800ps; Sep 1, 2012 at 02:42 PM.
Then do it. I have lg long tubes, high flow cats, x pipe, stock ti's and a vararam , I drove one season with out a tune and she ran up to 220 on a hot day sitting at a light, added a thermostat and got a tune she now runs about 195 at a light on a very hot day like 98 degrees, and a driving temp around 185 and around 178- 180 on a 80-85 degree day
Then do it. I have lg long tubes, high flow cats, x pipe, stock ti's and a vararam , I drove one season with out a tune and she ran up to 220 on a hot day sitting at a light, added a thermostat and got a tune she now runs about 195 at a light on a very hot day like 98 degrees, and a driving temp around 185 and around 178- 180 on a 80-85 degree day
Steve
Yep, a lower T-stat and fan tune won't add any power but, can help keep it cooler while putting around in traffic which will keep timing from being pulled when you do romp on it; also helpful on a dyno. On the open road there wouldn't be much if any difference.
Here's my take on this debate. I have some mods done to my car and I got it tuned by Doug from East Coast Suprercharging, who has an impeccable reputation for his work. After he tuned my car he told me to change my thermostat to a 160. I figure he would know better than me. So I did as he suggested. My car runs perfectly and I even get heat in the winter.