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Ok so I have had my car back from the shop about a month now.
dynoed at 440rwhp with the limiter set to 6600rpms. During normal driving there are no issues with shifting. It got a new stock master, slave and monster stage 2 clutch. The clutch holds perfectly but in a high rpm 1-2 shift I cant get it into 2nd unless I really grandma it. 4K rpm shift no problem but a 6K rpm shift aint happening. I was told a tick master would fix this. Does that sound right?
high rpm shifting is where I am having the problem. It comes out of gear just fine it is the getting it to go into 2nd is where I am having the issue. It only does it if I try to shift quickly. If I just push in the clutch, let the rpms fall and then go to second it goes right in.
ps..
I have been reading that this so called "drill mod" to the clutch line has had good results in curing the high rpm shift problem. What is that exactly?
Ok so I have had my car back from the shop about a month now.
dynoed at 440rwhp with the limiter set to 6600rpms. During normal driving there are no issues with shifting. It got a new stock master, slave and monster stage 2 clutch. The clutch holds perfectly but in a high rpm 1-2 shift I cant get it into 2nd unless I really grandma it. 4K rpm shift no problem but a 6K rpm shift aint happening. I was told a tick master would fix this. Does that sound right?
Thanks,
I can't comment on whether or not the tick clutch master cylinder will solve your problem but I will tell you do get it! As part of a major driveline upgrade from fly wheel to rear diff, I got the tick clutch master cylinder. Once installed on my car here is what the clutch felt like:
During the excursion of the clutch pedal, there are two zones: A "heavy zone" followed by a "near stock zone". The "heavy zone" is about the first 1/3 of the clutch pedal excusion. The "near stock zone" is the remaining 2/3 of the clutch pedal excursion. As the names imply, the "heavy zone" is dramatically harder than stock, not subltely. The "near stock zone" is pretty close to the feel of the stock clutch. This clutch engages almost instanteously and it occurs in the "heavy zone".
I had called tick and explained that I had a bad low back and had I been made aware of this behavior through their product description, I would not have bought it. I had removed it from my car immediately. Even though the unit probably had under 100 miles on it, they would not take it back. Great customer service.
How old is the fluid in your clutch? I know there is a write up by Ranger on here that you suck out the fluid in your clutch resivoir and put fresh fluid in it then pump the pedal 30 times and check the fluid, again. If it looks dirty, suck it out, refill, repeat. I know I did this before going to the strip and it made a huge difference. Check your fluid first. I am betting you have dirty old fluid.
ps..
I have been reading that this so called "drill mod" to the clutch line has had good results in curing the high rpm shift problem. What is that exactly?
There are two or three little restrictions in the master-to-slave line. These restrictions are supposed to help regulate the pressure, however, as many little GM ideas, they only cause problems. The main symptoms of these problems are the clutch pedal sticking to the floor, or inability to shift at certain RPMs, mainly high RPMS (5k+).
The drill mod is simply drilling out that line and removing those restrictions so the fluid can just pump through as needed.
The TICK Master essentially does the same thing in a different way by having an adjustable plunger that shortens the stop so it allows more fluid to pump through.
How old is the fluid in your clutch? I know there is a write up by Ranger on here that you suck out the fluid in your clutch resivoir and put fresh fluid in it then pump the pedal 30 times and check the fluid, again. If it looks dirty, suck it out, refill, repeat. I know I did this before going to the strip and it made a huge difference. Check your fluid first. I am betting you have dirty old fluid.
1 month. I changed it right before the head and cam swap.
Did you just change what was in the reservoir, or did you go through the process I stated till fluid was clean. I know I had some sticking shifting till I did this, and it really made a difference. Sorry for your troubles, hope you get this fixed.
Did you just change what was in the reservoir, or did you go through the process I stated till fluid was clean. I know I had some sticking shifting till I did this, and it really made a difference. Sorry for your troubles, hope you get this fixed.
when i did the new clutch i put in a remote bleeder as well so i can completely change. After reading all over the internet it seems like many many oem MN6 transmissions have high rpm shift problems. A lot of the owners just dont know because they never get the revs that high. Normally I never rev higher than 3-4K and can pound through the gears like butter.
Sounds like you are going to have to do something. I shift at 6800 rpm's at the track and never missed a shift. I rarely do it on the street, though (unless I just want to hear the car sing). Good luck, and let us know when you get it fixed.
Sounds like you are going to have to do something. I shift at 6800 rpm's at the track and never missed a shift. I rarely do it on the street, though (unless I just want to hear the car sing). Good luck, and let us know when you get it fixed.
unfortunately it is going to be a while. like you said, shifting that high on the street is a rarity and I leave for Korea for 2 years in a few months so the car is going to sit in storage until I get back.