Engine mods - Head bolts/studs?
So unless you feel inclined to R&R the heads multiple times use the bolts they work fine.
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1) One-time install that reduces thread stress. You thread these into the alum. block before applying the major tensile stress to the threads, minimizining the chance of stripping threads or cracking the block.
2) Accurate torque on the heads, especially using the ARP lube. Since the dynamic friction during the torqueing process is between the ARP stud and ARP nut rather than a steel bolt and alum. thread, the amount of friction is significantly reduced which translates to more consistent torque.
3) R&R is far quicker, cleaner and safer. Let's face it - having to pull heads is always a distinct possibility when you're dealing with a modded motor. I had to pull mine three times after initially installing them due to a faulty fit between my Cometic gaskets and new heads. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/5327101-post1.html) Had nothing to due with the studs but, because I used ARP studs, I never had to reclean the head bolt holes in the block after the first go-around because the studs keep coolant and debris out. Anyone who has done a head swap in an LS knows that cleaning the bolt holes out is a huge PITA and takes a good amount of time. Plus, leaving coolant in a bolt hole can cause hydrolock and a resultant crack in the block which is why cleaning is such an important step.
The heads fit over the studs with no problem during installation and removal on a C5 - I've done two and neither had any issues getting the heads on or off just as you would using bolts. Installation of the studs is a breeze and the peace of mind of the one-time installation and the safety factor over bolts (especially over TTY stockers) is worth it to me. JMHO
Here's a shot of my block just after installing the studs.
1) One-time install that reduces thread stress. You thread these into the alum. block before applying the major tensile stress to the threads, minimizining the chance of stripping threads or cracking the block.
2) Accurate torque on the heads, especially using the ARP lube. Since the dynamic friction during the torqueing process is between the ARP stud and ARP nut rather than a steel bolt and alum. thread, the amount of friction is significantly reduced which translates to more consistent torque.
3) R&R is far quicker, cleaner and safer. Let's face it - having to pull heads is always a distinct possibility when you're dealing with a modded motor. I had to pull mine three times after initially installing them due to a faulty fit between my Cometic gaskets and new heads. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/5327101-post1.html) Had nothing to due with the studs but, because I used ARP studs, I never had to reclean the head bolt holes in the block after the first go-around because the studs keep coolant and debris out. Anyone who has done a head swap in an LS knows that cleaning the bolt holes out is a huge PITA and takes a good amount of time. Plus, leaving coolant in a bolt hole can cause hydrolock and a resultant crack in the block which is why cleaning is such an important step.
The heads fit over the studs with no problem during installation and removal on a C5 - I've done two and neither had any issues getting the heads on or off just as you would using bolts. Installation of the studs is a breeze and the peace of mind of the one-time installation and the safety factor over bolts (especially over TTY stockers) is worth it to me. JMHO
Here's a shot of my block just after installing the studs.


I even use them on my iron block sbc, when using aluminum heads. You get a much better torque on the fasteners, well worth the extra exspence.




Heads go right on and off with the studs in place. Yes, they cost a LOT.
For the reasons stated above, it was worth the piece of mind to me.
and yes, cleaning the head bolt holes properly is a full evening job!
Ron
When I get ready to install my 243 heads, the stock bolts will go back in if they are in good shape. If not, new stockers will do fine.
Im going for 400-410whp with 3.42 gears and a 3200 stall converter as my final product.
Im thinking 430-440whp for you with LT headers, that cam, and the ported 243's.
Last edited by NukeC5; Sep 14, 2012 at 02:37 AM.
When I get ready to install my 243 heads, the stock bolts will go back in if they are in good shape. If not, new stockers will do fine.
Also, you won't be re-using your stock bolts. The LS1/LS6 use torque-to-yield (TTY) head bolts that plastically deform (permanently stretch) when you torque the heads down so they are throw-away, one-time-use bolts. Good thing they're cheap. Check your service manual.
Last edited by Patches; Sep 14, 2012 at 10:55 AM.
1) One-time install that reduces thread stress. You thread these into the alum. block before applying the major tensile stress to the threads, minimizining the chance of stripping threads or cracking the block.
2) Accurate torque on the heads, especially using the ARP lube. Since the dynamic friction during the torqueing process is between the ARP stud and ARP nut rather than a steel bolt and alum. thread, the amount of friction is significantly reduced which translates to more consistent torque.
3) R&R is far quicker, cleaner and safer. Let's face it - having to pull heads is always a distinct possibility when you're dealing with a modded motor. I had to pull mine three times after initially installing them due to a faulty fit between my Cometic gaskets and new heads. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/5327101-post1.html) Had nothing to due with the studs but, because I used ARP studs, I never had to reclean the head bolt holes in the block after the first go-around because the studs keep coolant and debris out. Anyone who has done a head swap in an LS knows that cleaning the bolt holes out is a huge PITA and takes a good amount of time. Plus, leaving coolant in a bolt hole can cause hydrolock and a resultant crack in the block which is why cleaning is such an important step.
The heads fit over the studs with no problem during installation and removal on a C5 - I've done two and neither had any issues getting the heads on or off just as you would using bolts. Installation of the studs is a breeze and the peace of mind of the one-time installation and the safety factor over bolts (especially over TTY stockers) is worth it to me. JMHO
Here's a shot of my block just after installing the studs.

with you here over kill on a N/A stock are small cam car. But I am F/I here mushing big rwhp & rwtq also studs all the way here. Robert

























