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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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Default Engine mods - Head bolts/studs?

In the process of getting all parts for 2000 vert to install PRC 243 heads, LS6 intake, ported Shaner 3 TB, catted LTs, CAI, ported LS6 oil pump, chain, UD pulley, Torquer V2 cam and cat backs. Is it recommended that I use ARP studs for the heads rather than ARP head bolts since I am not doing a FI mod on the engine. What is the difference. Corvette tax is more than twice for the studs vs. the bolts. Opinions/recommendations welcome. Thanx.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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The difference is ZERO between bolts and studs for clamping force, the real advantage to studs is you don't wear the block bolt holes during multiple R&R's of the heads.
So unless you feel inclined to R&R the heads multiple times use the bolts they work fine.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 01:06 PM
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Default Bolts/studs

No R&R here. Hopefully, once it's done it's done. Thanx mucho.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettebob1
The difference is ZERO between bolts and studs for clamping force, the real advantage to studs is you don't wear the block bolt holes during multiple R&R's of the heads.
So unless you feel inclined to R&R the heads multiple times use the bolts they work fine.
They will also make it next to impossible to get the heads off, with the engine is still in the car!
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:01 PM
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Default Bolts/studs?

Originally Posted by Tron Z
They will also make it next to impossible to get the heads off, with the engine is still in the car!
Explain this please. If I can't get the heads off if I use bolts how do I get them off now and get them back on?
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FRITZM
Explain this please. If I can't get the heads off if I use bolts how do I get them off now and get them back on?
With studs I would guess you have the stud still in the head..so you have to clear the header flange and then what ever else is in the way..as with bolts you just pull them out and you don't really have to worry about anything
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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Default Bolts/studs?

I inferred from that the way Tron was talking he was talking about bolts, not studs. This makes more sense. Thanx.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:13 PM
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+1 on the bolts. They will be good for a street package that may be removed only a few times in the vehicles lifetime.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Default Bolts/studs?

Bolts it is!! Thanx to all!
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 03:42 PM
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Hmm . . sounds like no one posting has actually used ARP studs on a heads/cam swap except me so I will weigh in. I can tell you that there can be some significant benefits to using studs over bolts.

1) One-time install that reduces thread stress. You thread these into the alum. block before applying the major tensile stress to the threads, minimizining the chance of stripping threads or cracking the block.

2) Accurate torque on the heads, especially using the ARP lube. Since the dynamic friction during the torqueing process is between the ARP stud and ARP nut rather than a steel bolt and alum. thread, the amount of friction is significantly reduced which translates to more consistent torque.

3) R&R is far quicker, cleaner and safer. Let's face it - having to pull heads is always a distinct possibility when you're dealing with a modded motor. I had to pull mine three times after initially installing them due to a faulty fit between my Cometic gaskets and new heads. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/5327101-post1.html) Had nothing to due with the studs but, because I used ARP studs, I never had to reclean the head bolt holes in the block after the first go-around because the studs keep coolant and debris out. Anyone who has done a head swap in an LS knows that cleaning the bolt holes out is a huge PITA and takes a good amount of time. Plus, leaving coolant in a bolt hole can cause hydrolock and a resultant crack in the block which is why cleaning is such an important step.

The heads fit over the studs with no problem during installation and removal on a C5 - I've done two and neither had any issues getting the heads on or off just as you would using bolts. Installation of the studs is a breeze and the peace of mind of the one-time installation and the safety factor over bolts (especially over TTY stockers) is worth it to me. JMHO

Here's a shot of my block just after installing the studs.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Patches
Hmm . . sounds like no one posting has actually used ARP studs on a heads/cam swap except me so I will weigh in. I can tell you that there can be some significant benefits to using studs over bolts.

1) One-time install that reduces thread stress. You thread these into the alum. block before applying the major tensile stress to the threads, minimizining the chance of stripping threads or cracking the block.

2) Accurate torque on the heads, especially using the ARP lube. Since the dynamic friction during the torqueing process is between the ARP stud and ARP nut rather than a steel bolt and alum. thread, the amount of friction is significantly reduced which translates to more consistent torque.

3) R&R is far quicker, cleaner and safer. Let's face it - having to pull heads is always a distinct possibility when you're dealing with a modded motor. I had to pull mine three times after initially installing them due to a faulty fit between my Cometic gaskets and new heads. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/5327101-post1.html) Had nothing to due with the studs but, because I used ARP studs, I never had to reclean the head bolt holes in the block after the first go-around because the studs keep coolant and debris out. Anyone who has done a head swap in an LS knows that cleaning the bolt holes out is a huge PITA and takes a good amount of time. Plus, leaving coolant in a bolt hole can cause hydrolock and a resultant crack in the block which is why cleaning is such an important step.

The heads fit over the studs with no problem during installation and removal on a C5 - I've done two and neither had any issues getting the heads on or off just as you would using bolts. Installation of the studs is a breeze and the peace of mind of the one-time installation and the safety factor over bolts (especially over TTY stockers) is worth it to me. JMHO

Here's a shot of my block just after installing the studs.
I even use them on my iron block sbc, when using aluminum heads. You get a much better torque on the fasteners, well worth the extra exspence.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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Heads go right on and off with the studs in place. Yes, they cost a LOT.
For the reasons stated above, it was worth the piece of mind to me.

and yes, cleaning the head bolt holes properly is a full evening job!

Ron
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:14 AM
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In all honesty, neither are needed. New stock bolts would be plenty sufficient for that build. I know old guys that use stock bolts on 500+ hp big blocks. ARP's are the best, but in actuality, few have a setup that needs them. A 1000+ hp blown or turbo charged engine could make use of them. But your not going to improve clamping force or change torque specs by using ARP's.

When I get ready to install my 243 heads, the stock bolts will go back in if they are in good shape. If not, new stockers will do fine.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:22 AM
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Default Bolts/studs?

Thanx for your input. I've been following your build as well. Go get 'em.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by FRITZM
Thanx for your input. I've been following your build as well. Go get 'em.
Thank you, good luck on your build! We are going a very similar route with our vehicles, but you are able to do LT headers and a larger cam as I have to pass CA emissions. What do you estimate your power will be at the end of the build?

Im going for 400-410whp with 3.42 gears and a 3200 stall converter as my final product.

Im thinking 430-440whp for you with LT headers, that cam, and the ported 243's.

Last edited by NukeC5; Sep 14, 2012 at 02:37 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:37 AM
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Anything above 400 and i'll be content. Strictly street for me.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by FRITZM
Anything above 400 and i'll be content. Strictly street for me.
You should be quite pleased then. Thats a pretty large cam for a street car You should see well over 400whp.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
In all honesty, neither are needed. New stock bolts would be plenty sufficient for that build. I know old guys that use stock bolts on 500+ hp big blocks. ARP's are the best, but in actuality, few have a setup that needs them. A 1000+ hp blown or turbo charged engine could make use of them. But your not going to improve clamping force or change torque specs by using ARP's.

When I get ready to install my 243 heads, the stock bolts will go back in if they are in good shape. If not, new stockers will do fine.
I don't see anyone claiming they are a requirement - just that they are beneficial and convenient. They are an upgrade to the originals. The stockers work as intended and designed but they were also applied with the mindset that the heads are to remain on for the life of the motor as long as a repair is not required - not as an easy method for upgrading to aftermarket heads.

Also, you won't be re-using your stock bolts. The LS1/LS6 use torque-to-yield (TTY) head bolts that plastically deform (permanently stretch) when you torque the heads down so they are throw-away, one-time-use bolts. Good thing they're cheap. Check your service manual.

Last edited by Patches; Sep 14, 2012 at 10:55 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Patches
Hmm . . sounds like no one posting has actually used ARP studs on a heads/cam swap except me so I will weigh in. I can tell you that there can be some significant benefits to using studs over bolts.

1) One-time install that reduces thread stress. You thread these into the alum. block before applying the major tensile stress to the threads, minimizining the chance of stripping threads or cracking the block.

2) Accurate torque on the heads, especially using the ARP lube. Since the dynamic friction during the torqueing process is between the ARP stud and ARP nut rather than a steel bolt and alum. thread, the amount of friction is significantly reduced which translates to more consistent torque.

3) R&R is far quicker, cleaner and safer. Let's face it - having to pull heads is always a distinct possibility when you're dealing with a modded motor. I had to pull mine three times after initially installing them due to a faulty fit between my Cometic gaskets and new heads. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/5327101-post1.html) Had nothing to due with the studs but, because I used ARP studs, I never had to reclean the head bolt holes in the block after the first go-around because the studs keep coolant and debris out. Anyone who has done a head swap in an LS knows that cleaning the bolt holes out is a huge PITA and takes a good amount of time. Plus, leaving coolant in a bolt hole can cause hydrolock and a resultant crack in the block which is why cleaning is such an important step.

The heads fit over the studs with no problem during installation and removal on a C5 - I've done two and neither had any issues getting the heads on or off just as you would using bolts. Installation of the studs is a breeze and the peace of mind of the one-time installation and the safety factor over bolts (especially over TTY stockers) is worth it to me. JMHO

Here's a shot of my block just after installing the studs.
with you here over kill on a N/A stock are small cam car. But I am F/I here mushing big rwhp & rwtq also studs all the way here. Robert
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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The engine builders/shops that I have spoken to have all told me that for an NA head/cam car (my set up-- ported and milled 853 heads and TR224R cam) there is no NEED to go with the ARP bolts or studs. They are definitely a nice upgrade to the stock bolts though and peace of mind for some. Myself, I'm going with what the builders have told me for my build. Good luck with your build.
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