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During acceleration in 2nd or 3rd gear, the shifter shakes pretty bad in the 3000-4500 rpm range. After that, it's smooth as can be. I can also feel the floor boards shaking.
The trans is also rather "tough" to shift. It takes quite a bit of muscle to get in and out of gear, and reverse requires quite a push.
It's getting a trans fluid flush next week as well as an MGW shifter. Any other suggestions, ideas?
If the shifter only shakes through that rpm range I would guess it could be a problem with the rubber driveshaft coupler. It may need replacement. My driveline has a minor vibration somewhere around the 3000 rpm range. From what I hear it is considered normal for c5z's and nothing to be concerned about. It's normal driveline resonance. Mine doesnt vibrate the shifter or rattle the car though. Have you changed the clutch hydraulic fluid at all? Try the "Ranger" method. All you do is use a syringe/turkey baster to suck out the old fluid from the clutch master cylinder (under hood next to brake) and refill. Drive it a while then do it again. Repeat several times. If that doesnt help and your clutch is still dragging it could need a new clutch. My stock clutch has the same number of miles on it and feels great. I doubt you would need one with such low miles unless its been drag raced hard. I have the MGW shifter, it's a huge improvement over stock, extremely precise. Flushing the trans could help too but I wouldn't think the fluid would be that bad with those miles.
If the shifter only shakes through that rpm range I would guess it could be a problem with the rubber driveshaft coupler. It may need replacement. My driveline has a minor vibration somewhere around the 3000 rpm range. From what I hear it is considered normal for c5z's and nothing to be concerned about. It's normal driveline resonance. Mine doesnt vibrate the shifter or rattle the car though. Have you changed the clutch hydraulic fluid at all? Try the "Ranger" method. All you do is use a syringe/turkey baster to suck out the old fluid from the clutch master cylinder (under hood next to brake) and refill. Drive it a while then do it again. Repeat several times. If that doesnt help and your clutch is still dragging it could need a new clutch. My stock clutch has the same number of miles on it and feels great. I doubt you would need one with such low miles unless its been drag raced hard. I have the MGW shifter, it's a huge improvement over stock, extremely precise. Flushing the trans could help too but I wouldn't think the fluid would be that bad with those miles.
Thanks! I'll give some of these suggestions a shot tomorrow and check back in
So I tried some of the suggestions you mentioned and it still is doing the same thing. It vibrates horribly at exactly 3500rpms, no matter what gear. So I'm thinking it's not a trans issue since it's every gear. Any other ideas?
The "hard to shift" problem has gone away after the fluid change though.
I'm thinking maybe a driveshaft issue? Any other ideas?
So I tried some of the suggestions you mentioned and it still is doing the same thing. It vibrates horribly at exactly 3500rpms, no matter what gear. So I'm thinking it's not a trans issue since it's every gear. Any other ideas?
The "hard to shift" problem has gone away after the fluid change though.
I'm thinking maybe a driveshaft issue? Any other ideas?
Glad the fluid change helped. Sounds like it could be the rubber driveshaft coupler. I'd ask over in the tech section too, you will get a lot more help there and may hear from someone that has had the same problem.
I've been doing some research and it seems like it is more than likely the coupler. With the season almost over I'm just going to hold out until winter time when I do a complete rebuild of the torque tube
I've been doing some research and it seems like it is more than likely the coupler. With the season almost over I'm just going to hold out until winter time when I do a complete rebuild of the torque tube
Your rubber couplers are bad get them both replace befor they brake out of the rubber and do more damage in the drive line. Get the good ones from RPM TRANS IN HERE A VENDOR... Robert
Could be. I've let C5s sit much longer than that with the only issue being a dead battery. Then I bought a trickle charger and had no issues at all. If they are bad i would go ahead and do what you already are planning on doing and overhaul the complete shaft,even look at the clutch since you'll have it apart.