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I could use some help with this one. Under track driving conditions we had an intermittent problem with the clutch. Depressed the clutch, was unable to move the shifter and the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor. Pryed the pedal back up and depressed the clutch again and was able to shift the car normally. If it's relavent, this problem occurred during heavy braking and heel toe. Clutch was not and has not been slipping at all. Any ideas? Thanks - Karen
I could use some help with this one. Under track driving conditions we had an intermittent problem with the clutch. Depressed the clutch, was unable to move the shifter and the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor. Pryed the pedal back up and depressed the clutch again and was able to shift the car normally. If it's relavent, this problem occurred during heavy braking and heel toe. Clutch was not and has not been slipping at all. Any ideas? Thanks - Karen
Hi Karen , You could try a search on this site But I belive you will find it has to do with dirty clutch fluid.. these cars will turn the fluid black in just a few days of road racing we have remote bleeders installed and bleed the fluild every other race... with out a bleeder it is kinda a p.i.t.a. to change fluid. How many miles does the car have on it? .
My Gf used to race a Z16 till this year now we have 2 '02 Z06's to keep the low mile (7k) z16 as a nice street car.
Thanks 555. This what we thought the problem was but you just never know. Any info on how you did the remote bleeders would be appreciated. This car is for dedicated track use. We have the twin to this car that is a garage queen as well as a C6 Z06 that we drive on the street although we keep 3000 mile a year insurance on her as well.
The consensus on here is dirty fluid, and that is correct, but mine was doing same thing just started out if the blue, and once it started it was a consistent issue, all the while flushing fluid and constantly having issues anytime you drove car aggressively, not necessarily at the track. I redone entire setup done tick performance master with speed bleed line and new slave pp tb and clutch, no issues to date my clutch wasn't slipping believed slave cylinder was the issue, but thought if I had to tear it all down might as well replace all while I was in there.
Thanks 555. This what we thought the problem was but you just never know. Any info on how you did the remote bleeders would be appreciated. This car is for dedicated track use. We have the twin to this car that is a garage queen as well as a C6 Z06 that we drive on the street although we keep 3000 mile a year insurance on her as well.
YOU HAVE 2 Z06 Z16's that is too cool!!!! we have a coupe an aniversary rag, a Z16 and 2 Z06's
I had the cradles out to change timing chains and do full engine and trans inspections so we put the remote bleeders in both cars then.
You can use a mighty vac pump to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, then refill with fresh clutch fluid then cycle the clutch several times and then suck out the fuild again once it is discolored do this several times I have done it on one of our other C5's and it worked it was just a real pain in the a--,
That is why both cars have remote bleeders now the only way to really install a remote is with the car on a lift pull the full exhaust pull the tunnel plate, some say they have done it at this point. I say support the engine pull the rear cradle and torque tube and install the bleeder but while you are there inspect the clutch and replace the slave,because ot the amount of work involved. If the car has high mileage or has been beat on for any period of time then by all means change the clutch while you are there. 1 of our cars had a blown clutch at 80k and the other had a Texralia OMG heavy pedal pressure. I replaced both with stock C5Z clutch assemblies and the cars work very well even power shifting running Hoosier r6's there is no clutch slipage.
Last edited by 555ss; Oct 23, 2012 at 07:56 AM.
Reason: spelling
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