Rear Window Defroster: No Current
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 68
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From: Santa Barbara
Rear Window Defroster: No Current
My car had a bad defroster connector when I bought it a month ago. I replaced the connector and the defroster doesn't work.
I got a good reading from the metal tabs but now the square metal-coated plates on both sides of the window.
Is any part of that metal-coated square just as good as any other part? I didn't file down where the old connector was, I just mounted the new one in between the two old mounts. It wasn't lying on top of anything but totally clean surface. I used one of those solder kits meant for rear window defroster tabs and used the primer and everything. It feels totally solid.
Could the two bulges of solder from the last connector be dissipating the current even if the new tab isn't touching them? What the heck is the problem?
I got a good reading from the metal tabs but now the square metal-coated plates on both sides of the window.
Is any part of that metal-coated square just as good as any other part? I didn't file down where the old connector was, I just mounted the new one in between the two old mounts. It wasn't lying on top of anything but totally clean surface. I used one of those solder kits meant for rear window defroster tabs and used the primer and everything. It feels totally solid.
Could the two bulges of solder from the last connector be dissipating the current even if the new tab isn't touching them? What the heck is the problem?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 8
From: Hopatcong New Jersey
Not sure. If you used the conductive epoxy kit you might have to take a dremel to it, otherwise you risk pulling off the conductive defogger strips from the glass.
What you should have done was hit the old solder points with some sandpaper to clean them up and then epoxy the new leads to the old contact points.
What you should have done was hit the old solder points with some sandpaper to clean them up and then epoxy the new leads to the old contact points.
