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Like most Im sure, the paint on the fenders behind the wheels is all chipped up. Anyone have a way to make it look better without repainting. My black 97 was real bad and my blue 01 with 20k is pretty nasty too.
Here is what I recommend since this is what I do. Buy some of the Dupicolor Exact Match paint in the spray can. Buy the smallest paint brush you can get from a hobby shop or one of the stores that provides craft supplies. Cut the brush hairs down until you have only enough to be about the thickness of a paperclip. Take the spray can top off and place tin foil into the cap so as to make a depression. Spray some paint into this depression and let it set for a few minutes so it thickens up some. May want to use a glove so you don't paint your hand. Dip the brush in and start to touch up the chips. Take your time, may need to do over a day or two to fill the chip in. You should see that the thickened paint should almost match the original paint thickness. Once you are done you could also use some 2000 grit wet sandpaper to smooth the surface. Some polish on a rag can remove any sanding scratches. If you have any questions send me an email and we can discuss further via email or over the phone. Just do one chip first to get your technique perfected before doing others. I don't use a primer for such small areas.
My car has the same problem. I was thinking of trying Dr. Colorchip to fix it and then putting some clear bra over it so that the paint doesn't get eroded away again.
Here is what I recommend since this is what I do. Buy some of the Dupicolor Exact Match paint in the spray can. Buy the smallest paint brush you can get from a hobby shop or one of the stores that provides craft supplies. Cut the brush hairs down until you have only enough to be about the thickness of a paperclip. Take the spray can top off and place tin foil into the cap so as to make a depression. Spray some paint into this depression and let it set for a few minutes so it thickens up some. May want to use a glove so you don't paint your hand. Dip the brush in and start to touch up the chips. Take your time, may need to do over a day or two to fill the chip in. You should see that the thickened paint should almost match the original paint thickness. Once you are done you could also use some 2000 grit wet sandpaper to smooth the surface. Some polish on a rag can remove any sanding scratches. If you have any questions send me an email and we can discuss further via email or over the phone. Just do one chip first to get your technique perfected before doing others. I don't use a primer for such small areas.
I have done this for 30 or 40 years. It works. I do it the same way except I don't use the tin foil. I just spray it into the cap.
I bought the ClearTastic product and applied it to the front fenders. I was seeing some minor chips behind the front wheels and no damage behind the rear wheels. Mine is a seasonal car driven a few thousand miles a year on good roads in dry weather and figure that the front wheels pickup all the FOD and the rear wheels don't see much.
I applied the product to the area behind the front wheels as per the instructions.
Pros - The product went on as expected and did not peel off after driving, and the area covered by the product has not seen additional damage.
Cons - the product, as cut and applied does not cover as much of the painted area as I feel it should - placed on the car as per the instructions the pre-cut pieces are about .50" - .75" short of the edge of the fender behind the wheel and even more so in the area of the body that wraps under the car. This is not nearly enough in my opinion as it leaves a visible area unprotected that will surely catch damage. On the other hand, the product as cut covers areas higher up on the fender where I see no damage whatsoever. The edges accumulate dirt that require the edge to be pulled back and layed back down to completely clean. The area where the peices overlap as per the instructions is visible and appears to be a minor crease in the panel. The film gloss is slightly less than the panel gloss.
I have recently removed the product from the car. Don't know if I'm going to put it back on, but I'm toying with the idea of cutting the remaining unused pieces or moving the product to cover more of the painted area behind the front wheels that actually catch damage. I'm convinced my rear fenders don't need the product because of the way I drive the car. My car is MY so damage readily shows but the rear fenders are completely damage free so far.
Ideally in my mind, the best protection would be a product that doesn't modify the lines of the car, and is molded as a single piece that does not require drilling / fasteners to apply - a tall order. Something like a molded plastic shield that matches the contour of the fender and is not as large as the film pieces - can be easily removed and installed when needed, and no drilled holes or clips - again, a tall order.
Last edited by pickleseimer; Nov 6, 2012 at 08:08 AM.
Reason: typo
What is the purpose of spray paint vs a little touch up bottle? There are hundreds of nicks, will they actually blend in?
I just like the spray cans but you can get the small bottle, just don't use that big brush unless you cut it down like I discussed. The Duplicolor product has served me well and especially with metallics. Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.
What is the purpose of spray paint vs a little touch up bottle? There are hundreds of nicks, will they actually blend in?
Sorry I overlooked your comment on hundreds. It sounds like you actually need to sand the area, prime and then spray. We can discuss details if you contact me. I have done this on cars like my wife's metallic paint scratch behind the rear wheel on her Lexus. You can't tell I did a spray can touch up. I could have gotten out my Binks spray gun but I have such good luck with spray cans. Might not work as well on the top of the hood based on car color. Worse case if you don't like your result you are only out some time and about $20. You can then have a paint shop fix it.
PS: If the spray blend needs to have clear on it you can do that to be fore you do final wet sanding and buffing.
be able to come up for reasons not to try clear Plastidip spray to protect the wrap around areas, but I was thinking of trying it. Nothing to lose, as it peels off easily. What do ya'll think of trying it? May even try it as a bra for any road trips.
Touched up all my chips years ago w/Dr. Colorchip then had 3M style clear bra installed - front, rocker panels, mirrors and behind all 4 wheels. Works great.
be able to come up for reasons not to try clear Plastidip spray to protect the wrap around areas, but I was thinking of trying it. Nothing to lose, as it peels off easily. What do ya'll think of trying it? May even try it as a bra for any road trips.
I did some casual research on clear PlastiDip for chip protection. I believe there is some potential related to the protection issue. My understanding is that the plastidip will result in a somewhat flat or perhaps a satin finish - perhaps not very good in the appearance department. I have heard something about some kind of gloss enhancer but my understanding is that the result is only a mild increment in gloss and not anywhere near the gloss of a clear-coat finish. Anybody else have info?
Great to hear. That is exactly what I was planning on doing.
Originally Posted by AZ Vert
Touched up all my chips years ago w/Dr. Colorchip then had 3M style clear bra installed - front, rocker panels, mirrors and behind all 4 wheels. Works great.
I originally bought the pre-cut cleartastic. I removed it, and then when I reapplied it, it doesn't stick as well, and lost a few pieces. Next, I bought the film in the roll and made my own. It REALLY sticks!
I ordered a couple of cans of clear and one of glossifier
Originally Posted by pickleseimer
I did some casual research on clear PlastiDip for chip protection. I believe there is some potential related to the protection issue. My understanding is that the plastidip will result in a somewhat flat or perhaps a satin finish - perhaps not very good in the appearance department. I have heard something about some kind of gloss enhancer but my understanding is that the result is only a mild increment in gloss and not anywhere near the gloss of a clear-coat finish. Anybody else have info?
The only areas I find I need to protect are those that wrap around into the wells where the paint terminates. The sides in 18K miles have sustained no chips whatsoever. Of course, I use a stretch fabric mask and mirror covers for highway driving and the front and mirrors are as new. I really like that mask. Easy on and off and works well with no finish scuff.
So, I am not as concerned aout the gloss in the wheel areas I need to protect. I'll let ya'll know what I think of it. If weather allows, I'll shoot it this weekend and get some pics.
Last edited by David Shiel; Nov 8, 2012 at 10:20 AM.
Reason: grammar
The only areas I find I need to protect are those that wrap around into the wells where the paint terminates. The sides in 18K miles have sustained no chips whatsoever. Of course, I use a stretch fabric mask and mirror covers for highway driving and the front and mirrors are as new. I really like that mask. Easy on and off and works well with no finish scuff.
So, I am not as concerned aout the gloss in the wheel areas I need to protect. I'll let ya'll know what I think of it. If weather allows, I'll shoot it this weekend and get some pics.
David, I'll be following your progress here - very interested in your opinion and some pics if you can.
David, I'll be following your progress here - very interested in your opinion and some pics if you can.
Of course, since the Plasti Dip can be easily peeled off, if I don't like it, no harm, no foul. Will keep ya'll updated. If I do like it, I will do the front bumper on the Grand Marquis.
Last edited by David Shiel; Nov 8, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
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