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While a Projector HID setup is the best option for performance, your immediate problem could be solved by my Hi-4 harness. This device plugs into your under hood fuse box and keeps the low beams on when you switch to high beams.
The heat produced from HID bulbs is focused in the arc capsule and dissipates quickly unlike the radiant heat from the burning filament in a halogen bulb. Since the factory reflectors do just a bang-up crap job of focusing light, the energy is never as focused as much as it is inside the bulb so heat will never be a problem for the lenses.
I should also note that If you decide to upgrade to the ACA Bi-xenon headlights I offer, I can offer you a discount of the purchase price of the Hi-4 harness if you already have this (it's part of the ACA Bi-x Kit)
I will be running a GP on these next week with a Christmas discount price:
You're an idiot!!!
(didn't want you to waste your flame suit!!)
SnoJob, I looked into the same approach, but kept the halogens for the highs. HOWEVER, I have those superduper Toshiba bulbs in there. (I forget the name) They are very bright but in the yellow spectrum.
I HAD a set of cheapo low beam HID's but had ballast trouble and got tired of taking the whole thing apart over and over to find the problem. I replaced they with PIAA's brightest bulb and they are much brighter/whiter than stock without the HID problems I experienced. I also installed Radioflyer's HI-4 harness which is really great. (I used to love when my uncle fired up all 4 of his headlights on his '58 DeSoto). I also added fogs to mine, including the OEM switch. Wired correctly, when the highs are on, the fogs are off.
All that being said, if I had it to do all over again, I would buy Radio's current system and be done.
... before switching to only highs i pull back the arm to give them a few seconds to warm up...then push the arm forward to light the way.
Well, I tried this and it works great! As the poster suggested, I pulled the handle back for about 8 seconds, then released and put into high.
I imagine they would work in reverse too. Let's say you're driving with highs on. Grab the handle and pull all the way back. You'll still have the highs, and when you release, your lows should have reached a useable brightness. Only problem is that one frequently switches from H to L upon approaching an oncoming car - not enough time for a warm up. But it should still work.
Anyway, my Hi-4 harness has arrived and I intend to install it this weekend. Can't hardly wait!
Originally Posted by chasboy
You're an idiot!!!
(didn't want you to waste your flame suit!!)
Thank goodness - it was getting quite uncomfortable in here!
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another reason to not use HIDs in the highs is for exactly what you're talking about above - fast switches. arc lamps (where electricity jumps between two metal contacts instead of heating a filament) will decrease their life span if turned on & off repeatedly, especially without fully heating up or cooling down - which is often the case when using high beams. sure as you turn them on, somebody comes around the corner or over the hill & you have to turn them off again.
another reason to not use HIDs in the highs is for exactly what you're talking about above - fast switches. arc lamps (where electricity jumps between two metal contacts instead of heating a filament) will decrease their life span if turned on & off repeatedly, especially without fully heating up or cooling down - which is often the case when using high beams. sure as you turn them on, somebody comes around the corner or over the hill & you have to turn them off again.
All good points. I installed HID lows and HID fogs and kept the highs halogen in my ACA housings. I also disabled the light flashing option when I arm/disarm the car via the keyfob to help extend bulb lifespan.
With both HID lows and HID fogs, I rarely drive a road that requires my high beams. Plus, by maintaining the Halogen high beams, I can still flash to pass without worrying about damaging my HID bulbs/electrical components. In the rare event I need to run my HID fogs, HID lows and Halogen highs, I can do it.
yep, i'm just waiting on a bulb to die so i can do HID lows & fogs. then i can justify to the woman why i have to replace my lights with something better
yep, i'm just waiting on a bulb to die so i can do HID lows & fogs. then i can justify to the woman why i have to replace my lights with something better
i like the way you think, George
i was *this* close to just 'accidentally' dropping those crappy blue silverstars on the ground when i was aiming the fogs last time.
I installed the Hi-4 harness this morning in about 15 minutes. It's kind'a cold out, even here in NC, so I pulled off the negative battery cable, opened the fuse cover, pulled fuses 8, 9, and 10, and installed them in the harness back in the house.
As indicated in the figure, I connected the brown wires to two of the three 10 amp fuses, and the white wire to the third. When it warmed enough outside I brought the harness and plugged the two brown fuses in positions 8 and 10, and the white into position 9. I made sure the tab of all fuses with a wire to remount them with the wire on the left side, as indicated in the figure. Then I connected the red wire to the positive terminal inside the fuse box, and the remaining black wire to the stud as the figure indicates.
I snaked all the wires to come out the protuberance at the bottom of the fusebox where the car's wires go in so I could reattach the cover, and then tucked the relay down next to the fusebox. I reconnected the negative battery cable.
I fired up the vehicle, turned on the low beams and made sure they were on, then went back and hit the high beam switch. The high beams were on, and so were the low beams! It worked just as I expected. This evening I got the chance to try them out and they worked great!
Thanks, Radioflyer, for providing this $25 product that could potentially save a life someday by eliminating the effects of the HID delay while switching from lows to highs and back.
Problem Solved!
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Last edited by s'noJob; Dec 15, 2012 at 08:05 PM.
Reason: correction.