Yet Another C5 Tire Question
I have a 2001 convertible, recently brought. It is one owner, very low miles with thin spoke polished alumium wheels and mostly its been sitting around on it's original rubber the last few years.
Because of obvious flat spots, before I brought the car, the dealer replaced the OEM front run flats with P245/45 - 17 non run flats. The rear run flats seemed a bit better so they weren't changed. But, IMHO, while the tread looks good, face it, these are 12 year old tires and as I actually drive this thing and plan on doing some southern road trips during the next few months, I don't trust them. Also, I don't like the idea of running non run flats with run flats... maybe not a huge problem but it can't be the ideal handling combination. The logical thing to do is replace the rears with the same Michelin Pilot Sports as the front except in 275/40 -18. However, someone had offered me a brand new pair of Michelin Pilot Sports in 295/35 - 18. Again, rear wheels are OEM polished alumium 18X9.5.
According to the table range, then should work (largest size for 9.5" wheels) but again, I'm skeptical. Is anyone running 295 on OEM 2001 rear wheels? I don't want speculation or "I heard" or "I think." It's not a money issue, I'll get the 275's if I have to but after all these are free which is about a $600 gift so if they'll work without screwing up the car or the handling, or the speedometer or whatever, I'll give them a try.
MOre knowledgeable opinions than mine are most welcome and thanks for putting up with the question.
Charles
Plus the OD is only .4" bigger than the front and you may run into AH/TC issues running that combination. Personally, I would pass....Or take the free tires, sell them, and use the money to buy tires that would fit better.

Personally, I think that is a bridge too far. I agree with you also that I would never mix run flats with non-run flats.
Now that I actually have experienced non-run flats, I would never again even consider run flats on my C5.
Further, If money is really not a huge impediment, I would only say that you might want to consider jumping to an 18/19 combo. That also makes a huge difference in both handling and ride.
Good luck...
The factory alignment has the wheels tipped inward for better cornering. But it makes the inside of the tires wear very quickly.
FWIW: I replaced my stock tires on my 2003 A/E Corvette with non-run flat Sumitomo HTR Z IIIs The First Ones Listed Here. For $552 and a great ride, they can't be beat for cruising. I now have 13,000 miles on these tires with a street friendly alignment and these tires are still great. I carry a tire repair kit, one much better than the kit that comes with a Z06.
These Sumitomo HTR-Z-III Tires

This Very Compact Tire Repair Kit Bought From Walmart 3 Years Ago
Last edited by Ron Dittmer; Jan 2, 2013 at 04:17 PM.
The factory alignment has the wheels tipped inward for better cornering. But it makes the inside of the tires wear very quickly.
For 2003 Corvette convertible with Mag Ride
Camber
LF = +1/8 degrees
RF = -1/4 degrees
Caster
LF = +7&3/8 degrees
RF = +7&either 3/8 or 5/8 degrees
(I can't read the one number well, it's either 3/8 or 5/8, but I favor 5/8)
Toe = 1/16"
For the record, this is the shop. You could call and ask them too.
Hartman Bee-Line Services
212 West Chicago Street, Elgin, IL 60123
Phone: (847) 695-7755
I hope this helps.
Last edited by Ron Dittmer; Jan 2, 2013 at 08:28 PM.





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Ron, would those alignment specs work for a 2001 convertible? Meaning, I guess across the C5 line or at least 2001-2004?
Last edited by cpaxson; Jan 3, 2013 at 10:13 AM. Reason: misspelling
For 2003 Corvette convertible with Mag Ride
Camber
LF = +1/8 degrees
RF = -1/4 degrees
Caster
LF = +7&3/8 degrees
RF = +7&either 3/8 or 5/8 degrees
(I can't read the one number well, it's either 3/8 or 5/8, but I favor 5/8)
Toe = 1/16"
For the record, this is the shop. You could call and ask them too.
Hartman Bee-Line Services
212 West Chicago Street, Elgin, IL 60123
Phone: (847) 695-7755
I hope this helps.
Are you SERIOUS????
Negative camber on one side of the car, which by the way, is the STOCK setting, and positive camber on the other?


To the OP, if you don't mind a slight loss in cornering power, looking for better tire wear, set the camber on BOTH sides at "zero", and the caster at 7.4* on the RF, and 7.0* on the LF. The factory call out for caster is 6.4*-7.4*, but most people prefer a little "lead" on the RF, so the car tracks straight on crowned roads.
Anyone living near Elgin, IL looking for a good Corvette alignment shop, I do highly recommend Hart-man Bee Line.
Last edited by Ron Dittmer; Jan 3, 2013 at 10:45 AM.
Negative camber on one side of the car, which by the way, is the STOCK setting, and positive camber on the other?


To the OP, if you don't mind a slight loss in cornering power, looking for better tire wear, set the camber on BOTH sides at "zero", and the caster at 7.4* on the RF, and 7.0* on the LF. The factory call out for caster is 6.4*-7.4*, but most people prefer a little "lead" on the RF, so the car tracks straight on crowned roads.
Another shop (heavy vehicle specialty) that did an alignment for my motor home had the same story with negative numbers. When I first saw it many years ago, I too thought something was wrong, but no, no, it's good practice to consider the water run-off slope.
Last edited by Ron Dittmer; Jan 3, 2013 at 10:54 AM.
Another shop (heavy vehicle specialty) that did an alignment for my motor home had the same story with negative numbers. When I first saw it many years ago, I too thought something was wrong, but no, no, it's good practice to consider the water run-off slope.
Admittedly, the numbers mean nothing to me. They could say 100 degrees and I'd say "Okay". I never "got into" alignments and what all the jargon means.

What the h*ll the owner won't know the difference as long as it dosen't pull and the steering wheel is straight across it'll go down the road.
















