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Tire Rack's magnet costs 15.95 + $8 shipping; Harbor Freight has a 66 mm magnet with a 95 lb pull for 4.99 (3.99 if you use the 20% coupon and buy it at the store). Is the power of the Harbor freight magnet good enough to set the sensors? I've only found "get a bigger magnet" but no Lb's of pull. Better yet, has anyone used this magnet? Thanks for your assist.
I can't help other than to say I know the magnet size does matter. I tried with the largest magnet I had at home and no luck. I borrowed a magnet from my local tire shop and presto!
From: Reno is so close to Hell you can see Sparks , State Of Confusion
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I bought 4 new sensors for my car and I tried a number of magnets and could not get them to work, I drove out to Tire Rack and bought one from them and it worked great, The best way to train the sensors is to do so before you mount them.
I've used a speaker magnet, a hard drive magnet, and a cheap $3 magnet from the hardware store and all 3 worked fine. The hard drive magnet is small but STRONG, so it's not necessarily the size that matters.
If it's hard to pull off your fridge, it should be strong enough to train your TPMS haha
I bought 4 new sensors for my car and I tried a number of magnets and could not get them to work, I drove out to Tire Rack and bought one from them and it worked great, The best way to train the sensors is to do so before you mount them.
I had the opposite experience.
I recently installed four new sensors when I purchased my new CCW wheel/tire package. All four sensors were pre-installed and the tires were already mounted and balanced.
After I mounted all four new wheels/tires onto my C5, I went through the TPMS training procedure using a $3.00 rectangular magnet I picked up at Home Depot. I was able to train the first sensor (driver/front) however I was not able to get the next sensor (passenger/front) to register and the training system timed out. After multiple attempts, I decided to take the car for a quick drive to see what the DIC registered and perhaps "wake up" the sensors.
Sure enough, after returning from my drive, I followed the the training procedure and all four sensors beeped the horn on my first attempt.
My point is that any decent sized magnet will do the trick and if your having problems getting the sensors to register, it might not be the magnet. You may just need to "wake up" the sensors.
Tire Rack's magnet costs 15.95 + $8 shipping; Harbor Freight has a 66 mm magnet with a 95 lb pull for 4.99 (3.99 if you use the 20% coupon and buy it at the store). Is the power of the Harbor freight magnet good enough to set the sensors? I've only found "get a bigger magnet" but no Lb's of pull. Better yet, has anyone used this magnet? Thanks for your assist.
I've used it if it is the one that has the telescoping arm to pickup screws/nuts and washers.
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
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You could try the Harbor Freight magnet - worst case scenario is you spend $4 for nothing. Or you could always try your local dealership - when I couldn't get mine to program after a tire change, I took it to them and they got it to program and did not charge me anything. Took all of 2-3 minutes to do.
I use an old 6x9 speaker magnet and it works every time. I swap wheels / tires from winter to summer and do the training then. Also heard that an old magnet from a microwave works well too.
I use an old 6x9 speaker magnet and it works every time. I swap wheels / tires from winter to summer and do the training then. Also heard that an old magnet from a microwave works well too.
I too have used a speaker magnet in the past and it worked fine. It was a magnet off a 12" speaker.
I used a magnetic parts dish to train mine, dish and all, with metal vave caps also.
The dish itself is about 6" diameter, the magnet on the bottom about 3" in diameter.
I have these dishes too and their magnets are STRONG. Next time I do mine I'll try the dish as that 12" speaker magnet is heavy and awkward.
I agree with dblerman. Magnets from an old harddrive (put one on your refrigerator and try pulling it directly off, no sliding) or speaker magnet will do the job. I've had metal caps on the stems many years and they've not interfered with calibration.
Re possible problems w/TPM reading when using metal valve stem caps. Battery powered sensors in ea value stem send a signal which could be interfered with by using metal valve cap stems.
Re possible problems w/TPM reading when using metal valve stem caps. Battery powered sensors in ea value stem send a signal which could be interfered with by using metal valve cap stems.
Hogwash. The entire valve stem including the actual schrader valve is metal. Not to mention the rim that the sensor bolts to is one giant hunk of metal. Putting a metal cap on the end will make no difference.