[Z06] Rear toe rod length?
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Rear toe rod length?
I'm modifying a C4 suspension (to reduce the rear bumpsteer) and am trying to see if using C5 toe rods is an option. Can someone help me out with the length from the inner pivot out to the tie-rod? (I still have to dig up the taper specs on the tie-rod stud to see if it would fit the C4 knuckle.)
Thanks!
(The C4 suspension is under my '69 so by default I've had plenty of practice modifying and adapting assorted vintage parts.)
Thanks!
(The C4 suspension is under my '69 so by default I've had plenty of practice modifying and adapting assorted vintage parts.)
Thread Starter
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Still hoping someone might be working under their car this weekend and can help me out with the toe link length.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
The pickup points determine both the geometry and the length. I'm trying to find out (unsuccessfully so far) if the C5 parts are of sufficient length. I can shorten the links, if necessary, but lengthening them is a bit of a headache. And I hate to buy parts before I know if they will work or not.
Thread Starter
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Los Angeles
I should be able to check back in on Monday with the info.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
ps: Looking at that stack of books I've got most of the same ones.
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2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Indy IN
Figure out what the thread is on the tie rod end, and then go to Midwest Control products web page and buy the correct length of tie rod that you want. Then inner rod can be a conventional rod end where it bolts to the subframe, and they have those there too. Since you are changing that from the stock C4 parts that is going to change anyway.
Since you want the right length, it's highly unlikely that you'll get it with stock parts so get it right and that will be easier in the long run.
Don't make it harder than it needs to be.
Since you want the right length, it's highly unlikely that you'll get it with stock parts so get it right and that will be easier in the long run.
Don't make it harder than it needs to be.
Thread Starter
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Figure out what the thread is on the tie rod end, and then go to Midwest Control products web page and buy the correct length of tie rod that you want. Then inner rod can be a conventional rod end where it bolts to the subframe, and they have those there too. Since you are changing that from the stock C4 parts that is going to change anyway.
Since you want the right length, it's highly unlikely that you'll get it with stock parts so get it right and that will be easier in the long run.
Don't make it harder than it needs to be.
Since you want the right length, it's highly unlikely that you'll get it with stock parts so get it right and that will be easier in the long run.
Don't make it harder than it needs to be.
The stock C4, C5, C6 tie-rod ends are M14-1.5. Finding decent strength 14mm rod (threaded or not) is difficult.
The stock C5 toe rods appear to be close to what would work for my application, hence my reason for wanting more info on the length.
My backup plan is to use all SAE thread parts, but that would require reaming out the tie-rod stud bore in the knuckle to fit an older vintage tie-rod end (assuming I can find one with a sufficient length stud), along with a mixture of other parts. This option is likely to be more expense and labor than reworking a C5/C6 part.
I appreciate the suggestion of the MCP company. It looks like they have some handy stuff to offer.
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.