Pull Key 10 Second Error
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 8
From: Frisco Texas
Pull Key 10 Second Error
Hey everyone. I am getting the Pull key error. I get it everytime I put the car into IGN for the first time. If I pull the key and put it back in the car starts without an issue. I have had the CL TSB done already but do not have a bypass; I was also thinking maybe my alternator/battery? I do have the LS1 squeak and it sounds like its my alternator but it goes away. Any advice thanks!
Pro
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 699
Likes: 0
From: Richfield MN
I would get the battery checked, clean the pellet in the key with rubbing alcohol and get a CLB installed. If the battery is good, it could be the alternator not charging, so you may want to have that checked too. But you really should do the CLB no matter what.
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 580
Likes: 1
From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
All good advice so far. You might want to put a meter across your battery terminals while the car is running to make sure you have sufficient alternator output. You can't always trust the the dash gage. And yes, install an LMC-5. The TSB recall only makes sure the wheel doesn't lock-up at 70MPH.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 8
From: Frisco Texas
I have a 6 speed.
Also, whats the best way to test the Alternator. I did notice something one day. My car wouldn't start at all, no power, went and jiggled the wire harness that connects to the battery and I had power.
Also, whats the best way to test the Alternator. I did notice something one day. My car wouldn't start at all, no power, went and jiggled the wire harness that connects to the battery and I had power.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 8
From: Frisco Texas
[QUOTE=8VETTE7;1583963996]
I will check that out for sure!
I have a 6 speed.
Also, whats the best way to test the Alternator. I did notice something one day. My car wouldn't start at all, no power, went and jiggled the wire harness that connects to the battery and I had power.[/QUOTE]
Loose battery connections... See post 3 , sentence 2
Also, whats the best way to test the Alternator. I did notice something one day. My car wouldn't start at all, no power, went and jiggled the wire harness that connects to the battery and I had power.[/QUOTE]
Loose battery connections... See post 3 , sentence 2
I will check that out for sure!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 4
From: Cypress TX
I get that code when I have my hood up for a bit, close it then back out of the garage. I pull the key for ten then restart and for on my way. I think it goes to limp mode before I shut it down then pull the key.
I mentioned this at a CNC on Sunday and no one had heard of such a thing.
I mentioned this at a CNC on Sunday and no one had heard of such a thing.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 4
From: Cypress TX
Thanks.
M6. 1997. Red top Optima.
I'm thinking that this may have been occurring since this car was a third or fourthcar for the PO. Her husband passed and she was selling several cars. It's my third car so until lately it didn't travel very far but now it has a rally behind her as well as a CNC meetup. I guess I need to try my openhood trick again.
I don't know if it matters but the key I got with it looks nothing like everyone else's fr om the meetup. Just a key with the chip in it, like my dad's oldsmobile key and a r mote like my Chevy truck!
M6. 1997. Red top Optima.
I'm thinking that this may have been occurring since this car was a third or fourthcar for the PO. Her husband passed and she was selling several cars. It's my third car so until lately it didn't travel very far but now it has a rally behind her as well as a CNC meetup. I guess I need to try my openhood trick again.
I don't know if it matters but the key I got with it looks nothing like everyone else's fr om the meetup. Just a key with the chip in it, like my dad's oldsmobile key and a r mote like my Chevy truck!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 887
Likes: 8
From: North Plainfield New Jersey
If the message is still there after you test voltage, the battery, alternator, connections, chip in key, etc.....my bet would be the dealer installed the infamous K harness as part of the recall. I had the same issue, did all the troubleshooting, and turned out the K harness was shot. Removed it, plugged everything in as factory, and not a single problem since....over 3 years and counting
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Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 580
Likes: 1
From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Pull Key Wait 10 Seconds
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 8
From: Frisco Texas
I'm bumping this up because something bad has now came up. Car has been squealing, replaced the tensioner pulley, battery, and purchased the Big 3 from SacCity. The car is now just turning and clicking and nothing. Lights and everything work perfectly fine. Before I changed the battery however I was having issues where the rear lights weren't turning on, just the headlights. Alternator?
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
limp 2 mph mode
All good advice so far. You might want to put a meter across your battery terminals while the car is running to make sure you have sufficient alternator output. You can't always trust the the dash gage. And yes, install an LMC-5. The TSB recall only makes sure the wheel doesn't lock-up at 70MPH.
