Started yesterday. Headlights go up and down just fine except when they go down there is a kind of grinding sound from the drivers side light for a few seconds after the lights close. Any ideas of what's going on? Thanks for any help and advice.

 

its a common issue with our cars.. there is a replacement brass gear you can get and swap it out.. grinding all gone. do a search, or maybe someone more helpful than I will provide it for you....

i replaced mine a couple years ago for about $90... i went ahead and did both headlights.

 

The gear in your headlight motor has gone bad. If it is a 1999 or earlier it is easy repair as the motor assembly has a cover plate held on by screws. If it is a later model, it is a little more involved but still easily doable. Search the forums here, lot of good how-to's or try this post:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...orialized.html

 

sent you a PM

 

Thanks for the help, guys! This forum always has the answers. I'll be ordering some parts.

 

Believe or not Autozone had part in stock. I guess because it also fits Firebird and Saturn.

Dorman/Headlight Motor Gear
For your 2004 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7L SFI 8cyl Price: $15.99

 

That is a plastic and they don't last, Best to replace it with a brass gear for the work involved.

http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/pro...products_id=92

 

 

Worried about the possible long term effect of the brass gear on the worm gear.

 

I haven't heard of anyone having an issue with a brass gears, Only with the plastic gears, I put 2 brass gears in my TA over 6 years ago and it is the same setup as the vette and they are still going strong. The worm gear isn't plastic.

 

and as long as you lube it up good, there should be no problems.

 

Took y'all advice. Ordered the brass gear kit x 2. Thanks!

 

Here are a couple "how to" threads. Good luck.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...orialized.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...placement.html

 

Just going through this & I think I can see where the real problem lies (in my case):

The motor on the later C5's (I don't know about the earlier version) is held to a plastic gear box via 4 metal tabs. My driver's side headlight began to "stick" and would not raise electrically. If I turned the manual **** one turn (to loosen it), it then would electrically raise when the switch was turned on. At the urging of a fellow forum member, I got the brass gear kit, and took it apart today. Low and behold, the instructions state also to tighten up the tabs that retain the motor to the plastic gear box. My gear definately was jamming when it came to a stop, and I can see from the loose motor / gear box fit that the gears were barely making contact (the motor worm gear would move away from the plastic gear due to the force of stopping and had minimal gear tooth engagement). This loosness (of the motor / gear box) is probably the real cause of the plastic gear stripping that most owners see.

In my case (besides replacing the gear with the brass gear), I tighened the 4 tabs, but also added a high strength epoxy to the motor / gear box tabs & interface area (& will paint it semi-gloss black to hide the epoxy).

My passenger side headlight is working fine (for now), but I tested it for the motor / gear box looseness (manual **** must be turned a turn or so to relieve the pressure off the gears), and see it is loose as well. I will just tighten up those motor tabs, and then epoxy that side also.

Hope this helps,
Plasticman

 

Thanks, Plasticman. I will check that when I get into it.

 

Sent you a pm.

Also just an FYI. As with any project that involves disassembly. Use a digital camera and take numerous pics before and while you disassemble so that you can reassemble correctly. There are some washers inside the gear housing that must be put back the same way. Having pics while doing this for memories sake will be worth it so that you don't have any problems later. Many people mess this up and things won't work right. It's a very easy job to do you just have to pay attention to what your doing and a picture is always a guarantee when you have any doubts. Good luck and defintely buy a brass gear or you will be doing it again in a few years.

Also another fyi is do not open and close your headlights while at higher speed. The added force of sudden air pressure puts added strain on the gears and motor.

 

All done! Lights pop up and down smooth as new. Thanks for all y'alls help and advice. Plasticman, the motor housing to gearbox was indeed loose, especially of the failed side. Plastic gear had a couple of missing teeth. I restaked the tabs to tighten and took your advice to reinforce with high strength epoxy.