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After studying up on bolting up the heads to my car, I see the procedure for tightening the head bolts and it is already stressing me out. I don't like the two phases of 90 degree turns because it sounds like it takes a lot of torque to do properly. I also see a lot of threads where people are stripping the threads out of the block. I like to just dial in the torque on the torque wrench and turn until the wrench clicks.
So what is every else's experiences here? Does it take a significant amount of pressure to tighten the TTY bolts? Is it just easier to go with ARP bolts and just dial in the torque wrench?
I used a regular 1/2 drive ratchet to do the last to 90 phases on the last set of heads I did. It was very tiring. Use a decent size breaker bar and it won't be tough.
You won't strip them.
If u are gonna pull the heads again- go arp. If not then get oem bolts. Arp were like 150$ here while oems were 30$. There's a decent price gap
I used a regular 1/2 drive ratchet to do the last to 90 phases on the last set of heads I did. It was very tiring. Use a decent size breaker bar and it won't be tough.
You won't strip them.
If u are gonna pull the heads again- go arp. If not then get oem bolts. Arp were like 150$ here while oems were 30$. There's a decent price gap
Yeah, I ordered a gasket kit that included OEM bolts but I'm just so nervous about these bolts stripping the threads. Does anyone have any idea how much TQ the last 90 degree phase takes?
Do head studs put the least amount of stress on the threads in the block.
I searched google for stripped ls1 head bold holes and founrd quite a few that had stripped the thread out of the hole. They used either helicoild or timesert to fix it.
The thing is, I have no idea why the threads stripped. Maybe gunk still in the whole, maybe the age/mileage of the engine, or maybe too much torque applied to the bolts.
I used ARP Head studs and was so happy I did afterwards. I had a gasket leak that took several re-do's to find (subtle problem with Cometic gasket) and had to pull the heads three more times within a few weeks before it was fixed.
With studs, you hand tighten them in the block after cleaning the holes out and then torque the nuts to spec after sliding the heads over them - and, yes, the passenger head will slide over the studs in the block with the engine still in the car. Plus, you never have to clean those bolt holes out ever again if you have to pull the heads. I've done this in my C5 and a few others when doing heads/cam.
I searched google for stripped ls1 head bold holes and founrd quite a few that had stripped the thread out of the hole. They used either helicoild or timesert to fix it.
The thing is, I have no idea why the threads stripped. Maybe gunk still in the whole, maybe the age/mileage of the engine, or maybe too much torque applied to the bolts.
Was it for header bolts? I don't know if I'd trust a helicoil head bolt