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hello
when i leave home, after one or two kilometers, I stop in an intersection,my idle drops at 500 rpm and rises back to 750 when I really stop;
it's very low and I feel like she will stall but she does not .
Something else to look into is the throttle body. At ~60-70k I had to have mine cleaned, just some throttle body cleaner spray picked up at the local parts store. It made the difference between an A4 stalling just sitting at a stop and running smoothly.
Does your car have an automatic or manual transmission? If manual, does the RPM raise to 750 after you push the clutch in and come to a complete stop? You may be slowing down in a gear that is too high for the speed and you're lugging the engine below the normal idle RPM. This is more noticeable when the engine and transmission are cold. Now that you are watching for this condition, you might be noticing it more even though it was happening all along. You wouldn't be the first person to do this. If this is the case, you can either choose a different gear, push the clutch in sooner, or ignore it.
If I did my conversion correctly, your fuel use looks ok. I'm estimating you're getting ~19.8 MPG. I'm assuming you do quite a bit of in town stop and go driving. Have you noticed a change in fuel use?
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Idle RPM is controlled by the ECBM computer. "Normal" for any LS engine is 750 RPM after the engine is warmed up. The engine should run around 100 RPM higher until it is warmed up. When you turn on the AC compressor the computer bumps your idle up about 50 RPM to compensate for the increase in load.
OP, since your car is not running in this manner and no changes in the computer program has been made then you must have a mechanical reason for the change in behavior.
Air filter, dirty fuel injectors or a bad one, dirty mass air flow sensor, bad spark plug or spark plug wire or a combination of all of these might be the culprit.....even bad gasoline
I am no mechanic but I would eliminate the possible causes and go from there.
I've got another cause: faulty Intake Air Temp sensor or wiring. My C5 had the same behavior, and starting throwing IAT codes after a while. The cause was a broken wire going to the IAT. Hard to find, as the insulation was still intact. If you can get your hands on a scan gauge, that makes diagnosing the problem a LOT easier.
I had same issue low idle and it was the air filter. I replaced it and after about two days it now idles at 750-800 rpm. It took a couple of drives before the idle recovered. Also some sea foam fuel additive is a good idea. Good luck, Rob
"Normal" for any LS engine is 750 RPM after the engine is warmed up.
That's what I expected to see and I'm more than willing to believe it's true, but do you have an actual reference for that number?
As I said, I can't find anything in the service manual, even under the section for diagnosing "bad idle".
I just cleaned the throttle body last night. Wasn't too dirty but since I haven't done since I bought the car 5yrs ago thought it was time to clean it.
After cleaning it and driving this morning I noticed the rpm's were a bit high, around 700-750 in park and on D around 500-550. Also noticed that when slowing down at about 600 it does a quick jump to 700-750, which It never did before. Engine is basic stock just for the Vararam and XS Power headers and X pipe and mail in tune. (automatic trans)
Can anyone tell me if this is normal after a TB clean? What can I do to stop that quick rpm jump?
All the rpm numbers are normal operation but the jump is questionable. Is the air conditioning on or off? Try turning it off if it is on and see if there is any difference. I think it is a rpm bump to maintain AC pump drag. Good luck, Rob