Ok its suppose to be pretty simple but after a ton of try i just can get the correct measure for my ride height.Note here that im not using the fender tot ake my measure but the correct J and K point on the frame with the driver weight in the car.

I did a ton of test,took a lot of measure on paper but i just cant get it done .So im starting a the begiining again with all the adjustement at max HIGH.

Front Driver(max high)= 4.250" Front Pass(max high)= 4.150"
Rear Driver(max high) = 4.085" Rear Pass(max high)= 4.140"

I did a first try and lower the front driver by 1 turn:

Front Driver(minus 1 turn)= 4.210" Front Pass(max high)= 4.120"
Rear Driver(max high) = 4.040" Rear Pass(max high)= 4.120"

What should i do next ??? For the record im trying to make the front even on each side and the rear even on each side.Then i will drop the front to have the .200 chassis rake.

Totally lost right now,i did try to do it at least 20 times,lowering ,lowering and again etc and restart all over again.
Thanks
Eric

 

Sway bars unhooked?

I usually start from low and raise the car, rather than high and lower....

Think of the 4 corners as a table with even weight on all 4 corners. You could remove one leg ie try to lower one corner and the other 3 would support the car at the exact same height. It will usually take adjustments at 2 corners to make a change.
Diagonal corners effect each other as well......

 

Yup sway bar unhooked.
So what i should do is playing with the 2 front shocks length to be able to achieve my goal.

 

Every corner has an effect. You may find raising the rear actually lowers the front as it transfers weight from front to rear. Diagonally as well. After making an adjustment, measure and record all 4 corner heights. Repeat as needed....

My Pfadts have stiffer springs in the rear, so 1 turn on a rear spring will raise or lower the car more than 1 turn on the front.

 

My rear are at top max high so i ll play with the front one.
Thanks

 

If you are jacking the car up to make adjustments, be sure to bounce the suspension up and down a few times once it is back on the ground to settle the suspension.

 

Well i took the whole damn day to try to make all the adjustement but i think that i will need some extra hours tomorrow.Yeah im really picky on small details

Ive received new 1 inch longer rear shock tube so now i got some room to play.

Right now im at

Front Driver: 4.046" (5 turn down)
Front pass : 3.890" (max high)
Rear Driver : 4.023" (3 turn up)
Rear pass : 4.015" (4 turn down)

Considering that my rear side to side only got a .008" difference ,i think that i got it.Also by looking at the front driver one im really close from the rear one.I cant play with the front pass since it is max up high.

So if im thinking like a table.If im lowering the 3 corner that are close and nearly equal(front driver,rear driver,rear pass) by the same measure,like 1 turn at a time, i should meet the measurement of the front pass in the process.My rear side to side diff should stay the same since i would be using the same amount of turn and the front driver one will meet the front pass measure while dropping..All i will have to do after is raise the 2 rear one to get my .200" of body rake...right ???

Can someone tell me if my logic is good ??

 

Forget to previous post because even if it seems logical its just not working.So im back at the beginning again.

Since i had some new 1 inch longer rear shock tube i decide to bring everything back up again. Im really sick of all this,i wanna drive my car but cant adjust the damn suspension.

Now all up (max) with driver weight in :

Front driver: 4.407" Front pass: 4.310"
Rear driver: 4.652" Rear pass: 4.745"

There is probably something that i miss.If i want to equalize my front i would try to lower the front driver since it got .100" nore than the pass side but...the rear driver will probably go down a bit by the same time and its already lower than the pass side.

I could lower the rear pass but it will lower the front pass also and maybe raise the front driver one ???

Im about to take my tape measure and just use the fender with no driver in but its not the way to do it....

 

1 turn out of left front, 1 turn in left rear. Settle the suspension, measure again.

 

Before beginning Thanks for your time really appreciated

The front driver one cant be out anymore.
Right now all the corner are max out(max high,only 25mm left in the lower cup).

So i can only lower(turn in)...

 

1 turn out means lower that corner by 1 turn.

What ideal heights do you want to be at when complete?

 

What are you using to measure this with? ID micrometers? Jo-blocks and feeler gauges? is the car sitting on a precision granite micro flat? Even if you had a chassis plate used for jigging up race car suspensions, I doubt you could reliably and accuratly measure .008 ride hieght differences after each adjustment. If you can get the chassis to settle reliably within 1/64" (The smallest spaces on a good tape measure) after bouncing it hard several times would be really good. The factory suspension setting is good if its within 1/16" of each other.

 

Ok so i could lower the front driver one( like you said1 turn out) but i cant go higher for the rear driver(you said 1 turn in) because its already at max high(but i could still try it to see if it work.)

This kit gives a minimum of 2 inch drop.Im trying to have the correct adjustment at the maximum high that i can.So if i can get around 4.2 front and 4.4 rear it would be great.I could also be ok with 4.0 front and 4.2 rear.Trying not to go lower than 4.0 if possible.

 

Im using a 3.5-6 telescopic gauge with a 6061 machine saddle to keep perfect 90degree angle betwen the floor and the frame.I take the measure with a0-8 inch mitutoyo absolute dial caliper.Using the exact J-K frame point.Of course its not on a granit

 

No insult intended, my point is you're being way to critical in your measurement expectations. Remember that after each coil-over adjustment is made, the car should be driven for several miles (preferably over some bumps or something) to settle the suspension into its new ride height, That will be a different measurement (Small but still different) than what you had expected when you made the first adjustment !! There is nothing wrong with trying to be precise, but that level of precision is really not necessary and will drive you crazy trying to obtain it !!! Anyway good luck, getting the car set up the way you like it,

 

No problem , i didnt feel insulted I take all the info that i can since you re right its really drive me crazy right now

Im also wondering if i really needed my weight in the driver seat to make the adjustement or i should just do it without any weight in the car.

 

I measured a spare set Pfadt Gen 1 single adjustables today. The adjusters are roughly 12.5 threads per inch or .080 per turn. It is probably a metric thread, buts lets just stick with Imperial numbers for now. Your thread pitch may differ.

It is important to remember that moving the adjusters, only effects the preload on the spring, and won't necessarily transfer into an exact up and down movement of the chassis ride height.

Just for giggles, lets try an experiment and assume it will transfer 1:1. Assuming you have the same thread pitch:

LF lower 2.5 turns
RF lower 1.375 turns
LR lower 3.15 turns
RR lower 4.3 turns

Settle the chassis and remeasure.

On Edit:

As far as weight in the drivers seat goes, it's a crap shoot at this point. Now if you had the thing on wheel scales and we were trying to balance the ride height AND the corner weights I would say it is critical to have the driver's weight accounted for and a full tank of gas.

Most guys on the street just want it to look good and be able to tell their buddies that they have coil overs.
Racers are more concerned with getting repeatable measurements after each race and evaluating changes for the next race.

 

So i go from max high on all 4 corner and try those meassure and get back with some result.
By the way, i dont think that paying with the lower cup will play with the spring prelaod...But i could be wrong.

 

Well just a follow up to end this.Nothing did realy worked correctly so i ended up using the tape method with the fender.

Im at 26 1/2 in front and 27 3/4 in back to keep the rake(with the fender method it should be between 7/8 to 1 1/4 ).So im right on 1 1/4 and totally equal from side to side.

The ride seems fine and the look is awesome.Will probably gonna get a full corner weight balance with an alignement next spring.

Thanks for all the help