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People have already posted in this thread that they remove the battery for the winter. If there were big negative side effects from doing that, they would only do it once.
I've lived in NY for the last 39 years and we can get some nasty winters. I've had boats, motorcycles, corvettes, riding mowers, etc that have been stored all winter with Battery Tender Plus on the battery and the batteries left in the "whatever" and hooked up. In batteries where possible, I always made sure the acid level was good.
I've never had an issue with a battery due to that. None were stored in a heated environment. Why do people push to remove the battery?
I will keep the negative cable unhooked and charge the battery every 2 weeks or so. My car will sit in an unheated garage for winter storage. I don't even bother using a car cover. I'll add a can of Seafoam to a full tank of gas and change the oil too. It stays that way until spring and will never be started during storage.
I've lived in NY for the last 39 years and we can get some nasty winters. I've had boats, motorcycles, corvettes, riding mowers, etc that have been stored all winter with Battery Tender Plus on the battery and the batteries left in the "whatever" and hooked up. In batteries where possible, I always made sure the acid level was good.
I've never had an issue with a battery due to that. None were stored in a heated environment. Why do people push to remove the battery?
Because some of us have had experience with batteries freezing? Does it get to -30 for a week at a time in NY?
No one is pushing to remove the battery. I am just trying to get different opinions. It worked great for me on my C3.
I will keep the negative cable unhooked and charge the battery every 2 weeks or so. My car will sit in an unheated garage for winter storage. I don't even bother using a car cover. I'll add a can of Seafoam to a full tank of gas and change the oil too. It stays that way until spring and will never be started during storage.
If you just unhooked the positive and put the battery in the house you would not have to charge the battery every two weeks.
Because some of us have had experience with batteries freezing? Does it get to -30 for a week at a time in NY?
As in minus thirty degrees Fahrenheit?!? Oh gawd no. If it got that cold I'd definitely have it inside, but I don't know many places that get to -30dF for a week except maybe northern Alaska.
As in minus thirty degrees Fahrenheit?!? Oh gawd no. If it got that cold I'd definitely have it inside, but I don't know many places that get to -30dF for a week except maybe northern Alaska.
Wisconsin gets that cold and it has stayed that cold for several days. That is why I consider keeping the battery in the house.
Q: What was the coldest day in Wisconsin's history?
A: The coldest temperature ever officially recorded in Wisconsin was -55° F at Couderay on Feb. 4, 1996. There is no practical way to tell whether this was the coldest day on record in all of Wisconsin, but it was a cold day across the northern Midwest.
1)Check your paperwork. Renew your registration if it will expire while you store your vehicle, or set a reminder to do so when it is due. Also, contact your insurance company to inform them that you will be storing your car and confirm your car is fully covered by your existing insurance policy.
2)Service your car. It is important that your engine and fluids are in good shape before you store your vehicle for a long period. Otherwise, you risk having your car not start when you are ready to use it again.
Change or top off fluids which may contain sediments as appropriate. This includes oil (Synthetic oil breaks down more slowly with time which makes it preferred for storage), coolant, transmission, and brake fluid.
Run out windshield washer fluid in regions susceptible to freezing to protect spray hoses from freeze and thaw cracks.
Fill your car with gasoline as it leaves less airspace for moist air to enter the engine and form condensation (or ice) and add a fuel stabilizer available at any hardware/parts store.
Check belts, filters, hoses, and other components of your engine. Ensure that all are in working order and clean.
3)Lubricate the car. Oil the hinges of the hood, doors, and trunk. Use a graphite-based lubricant for locks. Coat rubber parts of the doors and tires with silicone or white lithium grease. This will help prevent them from freezing shut.
4)Clean the interior. Throw away any trash. Vacuum seats and floor mats to prevent damage. Do not use chemical protectant (i.e. Armor All) on leather, vinyl, and other fabric as these may stain or cause excessive chemical damage to surfaces. Wash the inside of your windows. Getting the interior of your car in shape before storing it will prevent smells and potential damage from the sun or heat.
5)Care for the exterior. Wash, buff, and wax your car. Have it detailed, if possible. Make sure to clean the underside of your car as anything stuck to the bottom of the car acts like a sponge, trapping moisture that could lead to the creation of rust. Remove wiper blades or lift them up so they do not become deformed or flat. Ensure all leaves, pine needles, and other debris have been removed from the engine compartment and the windshield wiper cowl (The black thing between the hood and the windshield where the wipers come out of.)
6)Ensure that the battery is fully charged. Electronics can quickly drain the power of your battery, so make sure it is charged before you store your vehicle. You can also consider using a trickle charger. Disconnect your battery if storing for more than 6 months. Take the disconnected battery someplace temperate and dry (A Basement).
7)Deflate your tires to 10psi less than manufacturers recommendation and place the vehicle on jack stands if storing for more than 6 months. This allows the rubber to relax and prevents cracking while allowing you to still drive on them when you remove the vehicle from storage. There are theories of "Flat Spots" if a vehicle is stored on the ground, but newer tires are engineered to prevent this and any flat spots will be worked out within 100 miles or so. This does not apply to antique vehicles (Ford Model "X" or vehicles with non-belted tires)
8)Cover your vehicle. Vehicle covers protect your car from sun damage, dust, and minor dings. Try to find a vehicle cover designed for long-term storage. These will not trap moisture, but allow your vehicle to breathe. [2]
Have a friend who has several muscle cars, including 2 old Vettes. I have a 2001 C5 convertible that I have stored in Michigan in an unheated garage for 3 winters now. Best method, recommended by my friend, is to add Sta-Bil to the existing gas (not full), park over a tarp (to prevent moisture absorption), remove battery and slow-charge, and cover car with good quality cover. In the spring, reverse procedure and run high octane premium for first tank refill.
I don't buy that. Having lived in Wisconsin all my life I have seen how cold weather is hard on batteries. Especially 35 below zero. To prevent it from going dead and freezing is a good reason to remove it. Removing the battery from my C3 worked great for 10 years.
As for getting my hands dirty, I have been working on cars for 45 years. I like getting them dirty. I do know some guys that do put their cars on jack stands and store their tires in the house. Since I am getting new tires in the spring I don't intend to do that.
OK so we have established that you like getting your hands dirty and wasting time for a long time (45 years?, U must be very old). The reality is a healthy battery on a tender will never freeze. Sure removing it and putting in your house will work. Perhaps you sleep with it too. Why bother? It is unnecessary unless you like twisting wrenches and getting dirty
OK so we have established that you like getting your hands dirty and wasting time for a long time (45 years?, U must be very old). The reality is a healthy battery on a tender will never freeze. Sure removing it and putting in your house will work. Perhaps you sleep with it too. Why bother? It is unnecessary unless you like twisting wrenches and getting dirty
Why are you such a jerk?
The reality is any battery can go bad at 35 below zero. Even brand new ones. For long term storage it is recommended by experts to remove the battery from the car and store it in a warm place. Why bother? Why not? If 5 minutes easy work is a waste of time for you then you have bigger problems than I thought.
Have a friend who has several muscle cars, including 2 old Vettes. I have a 2001 C5 convertible that I have stored in Michigan in an unheated garage for 3 winters now. Best method, recommended by my friend, is to add Sta-Bil to the existing gas (not full), park over a tarp (to prevent moisture absorption), remove battery and slow-charge, and cover car with good quality cover. In the spring, reverse procedure and run high octane premium for first tank refill.
On the C3 forum there was a tip to put a bar of Irish Spring inside. Mice hate the smell and in the spring the interior smells just like Uncle Clyde.
If I remember correctly. Our pal Darryl is the guy that calls all mods done to a car are a waste of money. Jc Whitney I believe is the term he uses. Not surprised he's her being an asshat.
Originally Posted by JR-01
Why are you such a jerk?
The reality is any battery can go bad at 35 below zero. Even brand new ones. For long term storage it is recommended by experts to remove the battery from the car and store it in a warm place. Why bother? Why not? If 5 minutes easy work is a waste of time for you then you have bigger problems than I thought.
I'm in MN. My storage process includes filling the tank with Sea Foam treated gas, driving till it's through the entire system, then air up the tires to about 50 lbs to avoid flat spots, pull the battery to bring inside & put it on a batt tender. One winter I left the battery in & put it on a tender in an unheated garage and had no issues. Either way it fires up right away for me in spring, as if it never went into hibernation.
These work great for plugging the tailpipes. Lets air circulate, fits all shapes and keeps varmints out. And if you forget they are there when you go to fire it up, they will blow right out, unlike tennis *****.
OK so we have established that you like getting your hands dirty and wasting time for a long time (45 years?, U must be very old). The reality is a healthy battery on a tender will never freeze. Sure removing it and putting in your house will work. Perhaps you sleep with it too. Why bother? It is unnecessary unless you like twisting wrenches and getting dirty
My car sits in a cold garage, no tender. I try to drive it as much as possible, no snow or salt . The car may sit a month or more and still start. new battery every 5 years. I do not touch the battery. This is the first year the I had the jump the battery but its 5 years was up.