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[Z06] LS7 in C5 ??

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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 07:52 PM
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Default LS7 in C5 ??

Has anyone installed, a C6 ZO6 LS7 in there C5 ZO6? If so how much trouble was it? And How does it run?

Last edited by bada; Oct 16, 2013 at 07:55 PM. Reason: ..
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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couple guys here have done it.. I dont know if they kept it dry sump or swapped back to wet sump oiling.. its pretty bolt in, it is still a LS based motor so it is for most is a pretty straight swap. Obvoiusly it will need ecu tuned, clutch swap and a few other components.

should run well.. NOW i dont see it being a cheap swap to do, this is why most people go to LS2 or LS3 block and build it up vs LS7 (new LS7 is like $25-30K) or S/C the LS1/6 or build a LS1/6.

S

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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:26 PM
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Monte, I think your numbers are a little off there. A LS7, can be had for around 13-14k.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...03674/10002/-1

Here's our friend Maxx, who just did the swap into his C5Z.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ls7-build.html
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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The amount of money it would cost to purchase, swap, install and tune the new motor, harness etc, would be the cost of new car. For the little performance gain vs money spent, you could go FI for half the amount and keep the C6Z in the review
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:40 PM
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Thanks for the input JP

OP,

Yes i recently installed a wet sump LS7 in my Z06. I got inspired by testing out the power of an LS7 on a C6Z. The LS7 is hands down another animal. I love the FRC body more on my C5Z than any other generation corvette to this day, which is why i didn't choose to flip my C5Z for a C6Z. No regrets here at all. Many friends with vettes swear driving in my car feels so much different than their FI setups.

If you have any questions let me know. The swap isn't as complicated as i had read on here.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZ06
The amount of money it would cost to purchase, swap, install and tune the new motor, harness etc, would be the cost of new car. For the little performance gain vs money spent, you could go FI for half the amount and keep the C6Z in the review
Not to do FI right. You need to build the bottom end to keep longevity, not to mention, asking and answering the simple question: why are there so many Centri S/C kits for sale all the time in the C5/6 section? FI can be a bear. You don't have to buy a creat LS7 and do a swap, all you need is the LS7 style heads and buy a Shortblock 4.125 bore x 4.00 stroke resleeved block from ERL, or R.E.D. The finished product would be the within 1k of a 402 (LS2) or 418 (LS3) stroker.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:51 PM
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I got a 427 in mine. ls1 block sleeved 4.125 bore/4" stroke, ls7 heads, fast 102/102, big cam. Car has gone 127mph in the 1/4. Car made 556hp/502trq on a dyno-jet

Im sure swapping a real ls7 would be much more of a headache.. The only big thing I had to do was shim the subframe down to fit the 102 manifold.. other than that it bolts in
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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I designed and built an ls7 bare block with all the goodies and put it in my c5z. We kept the ls6 stroke and it came out to 388ci. The car ran great on the street and strip. It dynoed around 700whp n/a. We tore it down and rebuilt it recently with all new parts including ERL superdecking. Since then I designed a new motor and am now interested in selling if anyone is interested, email me thanks.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RedC5Z
I got a 427 in mine. ls1 block sleeved 4.125 bore/4" stroke, ls7 heads, fast 102/102, big cam. Car has gone 127mph in the 1/4. Car made 556hp/502trq on a dyno-jet

Im sure swapping a real ls7 would be much more of a headache.. The only big thing I had to do was shim the subframe down to fit the 102 manifold.. other than that it bolts in
The shop who did my work said my swap was one of the easiest they've done before. According quote not too many parts were needed for the swap. Mainly all of them were performance parts requested by me since the motor was out.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by robz
I designed and built an ls7 bare block with all the goodies and put it in my c5z. We kept the ls6 stroke and it came out to 388ci. The car ran great on the street and strip. It dynoed around 700whp n/a. We tore it down and rebuilt it recently with all new parts including ERL superdecking. Since then I designed a new motor and am now interested in selling if anyone is interested, email me thanks.
The man, the legend, RobZ! That motor is big time! Didn't you spin it to 8500? Didn't it run 9's? What's the asking price? And what are the specs?
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by robz
I designed and built an ls7 bare block with all the goodies and put it in my c5z. We kept the ls6 stroke and it came out to 388ci. The car ran great on the street and strip. It dynoed around 700whp n/a. We tore it down and rebuilt it recently with all new parts including ERL superdecking. Since then I designed a new motor and am now interested in selling if anyone is interested, email me thanks.
700whp N/A?

Man that's bad ***! You rock man
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 427ZM
Not to do FI right. You need to build the bottom end to keep longevity, not to mention, asking and answering the simple question: why are there so many Centri S/C kits for sale all the time in the C5/6 section? FI can be a bear. You don't have to buy a creat LS7 and do a swap, all you need is the LS7 style heads and buy a Shortblock 4.125 bore x 4.00 stroke resleeved block from ERL, or R.E.D. The finished product would be the within 1k of a 402 (LS2) or 418 (LS3) stroker.
Unless you know someone for hookups. Ive looked at the crate LS3 (418ci) and to add heads and intake along with various other parts, I come out cheaper going with a forged 346 and an A&A kit. Ive added it up. Maybe ill go back and do some more research but for built stroked LS3/LS7 its cheaper to go FI on a little 346.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZ06
Unless you know someone for hookups. Ive looked at the crate LS3 (418ci) and to add heads and intake along with various other parts, I come out cheaper going with a forged 346 and an A&A kit. Ive added it up. Maybe ill go back and do some more research but for built stroked LS3/LS7 its cheaper to go FI on a little 346.
I tend to agree with this too. After I was done I came across a few nicely built 5.3 & 6.0 turbo's that made my car feel slow.. buy rods and pistons, swap to e85 and have a blast at 20psi
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 427ZM
Monte, I think your numbers are a little off there. A LS7, can be had for around 13-14k.
LMAO! sorry... Too much coffee, feel kinda tweeked out. my mind said 15-20.. my hands typed $25-30...

S
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZ06
Unless you know someone for hookups. Ive looked at the crate LS3 (418ci) and to add heads and intake along with various other parts, I come out cheaper going with a forged 346 and an A&A kit. Ive added it up. Maybe ill go back and do some more research but for built stroked LS3/LS7 its cheaper to go FI on a little 346.
Originally Posted by RedZMonte
LMAO! sorry... Too much coffee, feel kinda tweeked out. my mind said 15-20.. my hands typed $25-30...

S
Gotcha! Installed, that's dead on.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:52 PM
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big power, everyone knows you need a Small Block with a glide! economy and performance... Pfffff 7spd
http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...ategory_id=167

And anyone who gets this reference will get a small chuckle.
2 speeds... hmmmm, HHMMMMMM
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZ06
Unless you know someone for hookups. Ive looked at the crate LS3 (418ci) and to add heads and intake along with various other parts, I come out cheaper going with a forged 346 and an A&A kit. Ive added it up. Maybe ill go back and do some more research but for built stroked LS3/LS7 its cheaper to go FI on a little 346.
Originally Posted by RedC5Z
I tend to agree with this too. After I was done I came across a few nicely built 5.3 & 6.0 turbo's that made my car feel slow.. buy rods and pistons, swap to e85 and have a blast at 20psi
FI can be a bear. Why are there so many Centri kits for sale constantly? I don't disagree, when right, it'll make more power, but you want a car you can drive, and that doesn't overheat, or have belt slip.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 11:22 PM
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I ran a A&A kit with 600+rwhp for 4+ years

Now I'm running a close to 600rwhp LS7 for 2 years.

I wouldnt go FI ever again for numerous reasons. Plus.. to build a FI car correctly it'll end up costing you just as much as a stout big cube engine... Slapping a kit on a stock bottom end is a ticking time bomb.. I've lost count of how many friends engines i've seen go south because of that reason.

But to answer the original question... Its very doable with a few adapters.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteZ06
I ran a A&A kit with 600+rwhp for 4+ years

Now I'm running a close to 600rwhp LS7 for 2 years.

I wouldnt go FI ever again for numerous reasons. Plus.. to build a FI car correctly it'll end up costing you just as much as a stout big cube engine... Slapping a kit on a stock bottom end is a ticking time bomb.. I've lost count of how many friends engines i've seen go south because of that reason.

But to answer the original question... Its very doable with a few adapters.
Nice! Experience with both! I'd bet you throw a cussing fit if we started discussing fuel systems! Lol.

FI is a BUNCH of other work. It can be done, and done well, but it cost $$.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 427ZM
Nice! Experience with both! I'd bet you throw a cussing fit if we started discussing fuel systems! Lol.

FI is a BUNCH of other work. It can be done, and done well, but it cost $$.
Idk about you but I have literally 8-9g's into just the motor on mine. Rods/pistons in the 346 and spend the rest on turbo. Prob be 2-3g's more and make 1000whp, not 556whp..

Of course I'm talking doing most of the work myself (I'm capable of fabbing for myself) but Ive built everything on my car but the bottom end. So that's just just the Norm for me
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