Dennis hooked me up with everything I need including the adapter plates, and amp wiring kit. He said the only thing I might need are various connectors or if I'm a solder type of guy (I am), some heat shrink.

I've been hunting down options to install the amp. Dennis suggested behind the waterfall, but I'm also thinking of mounting on the rear bulkhead on some MDF. I'm not too concerned about running wires since I'll have the whole interior out for sound deadening install, but I do want the wiring at the amp to look professional. So if you have any tips on how to route/tie down wires at the amp for a very clean install I'd be very grateful for advice there.

I plan on running the power wire down the passenger side and the speaker wires down the drivers side to minimize any potential interference. Sound right?

Thanks again,

J

 

Sounds like a great setup!

My box doesn't quite take up the whole center section so I will be able to squeeze my amp just above the sub.

 

One of your decisions will regard the location of the crossovers needed for the woofer/tweeter combo door component speakers. If your door speakers are not coaxial speakers, you will need to install crossovers (which are passive devices whose function is to split the signal into two bands - one for each door's woofer and the other for that door's tweeter). Many crossovers have certain adjustment controls built into them which allow fine tuning of the sound emanating from each individual speaker.

Some folks mount the crossover on the same mounting board used for the woofer/tweeter. The advantage? Minimal wiring. If your crossovers don't have adjustability built into them, behind the door panel is a swell place. Just remember, locating your crossovers behind the door increases the likelihood that your crossovers will be subjected to moisture - enemy number 1 to your system. But if, like many, you won't drive your baby in the rain, then this is less of an issue.

Dennis suggests mounting the crossovers on the underside of the dash (passenger and driver). That's what I did, and used cable ties to hold them in place. This location allows me to get to the adjustment switches that are built into my crossovers. Another advantage of an under-dash mounting location is that it minimizes the amount of speaker wiring used. Something in the back of my mind told me that the less speaker wiring I used, the better (from a sound quality standpoint).


Others mount the crossovers behind whichever seat is not being used for mounting the amp (if you are mounting your amp in the cargo area, then this is mute). A behind-the-seat location likewise allows direct access for adjustability. The advantage over the under-dash mount? If you have long feet/shoes, your toes may brush the crossovers if mounted under-dash.

I chose the under-dash location so I could retrofit my A-pillar-mounted tweeters more easily. I installed my system with tweeters in the doors, and then moved the tweeters to the A-pillars once I received those A-pillars from Double D Mods. Why? 'Cause I couldn't wait two more weeks to hear my new system.

Just more food for thought....

The Lizzard

 

Thanks for sharing Lizzard. I appreciate the insights. Gives me something to think about while I wait for my goodies to arrive.

Does anybody have install pics of mounting amp to mdf on rear bulkhead? The amp is a Kenwood 700/5. I pulled down the manual last night. I think I'll go take some measurements to see what I'm working with. I really don't want the amp "on display" but I'm not going to go out of my way to hide it either. So I'm going to be focused on make sure it's as neat as possible. Behind the passenger seat is out of the question for me.

 

Following is a thread that takes you to forum member Thrash's show-n-tell on installing a bespoke system in his C6. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...p-by-step.html

Be sure to study Thrash's discussions here before you start. If you are really interested in maximizing the sound quality of your system, you will need to address three things BEFORE YOU INSTALL YOUR SYSTEM: vibration dampening, temperature abatement, and sound deadening. Thrash describes how he tackled these three things.

Paragraph 19 on Thrash's post #9 (towards the bottom of page 2 of his thread) includes a good discussion of sound dampening. And Thrash discloses the name of a key vendor who helped him out: Sound Deadener Showdown (or "SDS"). SDS is not a Forum vendor so I can't tell you his website, but you can readily look it up for yourself.

You will need to decide whether to run the speaker, power and coax cables before or after you install your vibration/temperature/soundproofing materials. It makes no difference to the sound quality. BUT...if ever you want to re-route your cabling, then you'd best do it AFTER you have installed your vibration/temperature/soundproofing materials. Otherwise you'll have to cut those to find your cables. (Ask me how I know this is important.)

And you will need to run all of your cables so that they don't get close to your power and ground cables. Why? Because locating the speaker and coax cables near your power cable risks destroying your sound quality (long technical explanation as to why this is so is omitted here).

So...plan out all of this stuff BEFORE you start. And contact me or any of the rest of us who have "Been there, done that, got the T-shirt." Happy to share with you what I did well, and what I wished I had done better.

Have fun.

The Lizzard

 

jmxp69 wrote:Does anybody have install pics of mounting amp to mdf on rear bulkhead? The amp is a Kenwood 700/5. I pulled down the manual last night. I think I'll go take some measurements to see what I'm working with. I really don't want the amp "on display" but I'm not going to go out of my way to hide it either. So I'm going to be focused on make sure it's as neat as possible.

Unfortunately, I didn't save any posts for a cargo-area amp mounting location. Why? Because I determined to have a minimal length of power cord. A behind-the-seat location fit the bill.

Nevertheless, here are some threads you will find useful:

1. By Patches, one of our gurus on all things C5. His amp is behind the passenger seat, but in other respects his install will be similar to yours: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...-overhaul.html

2. By tbar1963 - a Vert install, again with the amp behind the passenger seat: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...ress-pics.html

3. By MS04 - a C6 install with lots of details on the vibration dampening/sound deadening area. Again, amp was installed behind the passenger seat: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...o-install.html

4. Three posts about grounding points for your amp, including various ground locations throughout your car:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...nnections.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...nger-seat.html

I was able to ground my amp to one of the bolts used for anchoring my passenger seat to the floor. So the total length of my ground wire was about 2'. Again, I wanted minimal power/ground cabling so it would not interfere with the routing of my RCA and speaker wiring.

Hope this helps.

The Lizzard

 

Just ordered MLV and CCF from Second Skin. That put a dent in the wallet! I read through Thash's thread then found http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com. Honestly, I'm not sure Thrash got it quite right if the intention was to block more than panel resonance. If I read his thread correctly, he used CLD, Ensolite, and heat shielding:

Layer 1: STIFFENERS, BUTYL & BXTII
Layer 2: DEADENING, LAYER 2 – ENSOLITE (I think this is wrong)
Layer 3: DEADENING, LAYER 3 – HEAT-SHIELD

Based on what I found at sounddeadenershowdown.com, Don says CCF (Ensolite) has nothing to do with blocking sound. It's only meant to decouple a sound barrier. As I read his FAQs and How-To's, it looks like he uses CCF between MLV and sheet metal to decouple MLV (which does actually block sound) and in some cases (door cards) between MLV and trim pieces. See Don's quotes below:

Based on this well documented discussion of sound deadening, I opted to use his barrier method with CLD, CCF, MLV, and more CCF. I may pick up some reflectix for the cabin area under foot and around the tunnel to abate heat, but I'll probably stop there.

I've also realized reading Don's site I don't need a whole cabin CLD application. He says to target 25% and that makes a lot of sense after watching the resonance demo video.

I won't be using the top layer CCF on the floorboards or underneath carpet as in the cargo space. It will only go between the MLV and sheet metal in those cases.

Stuff ain't cheap, I'll say that. Shipping alone was $75. The only thing left to do is to place an order for some extrude butyl rope from Don and wait for everything to show up.

 

Don't buy more than one unit of the butyl rope; you don't need it. One unit will be plenty because the rope stretches quite a bit. And wear disposable rubber gloves when you install that butyl rope; it is pretty messy.

IF you are going to go Double DIN, you might want to contact me and discuss what I did...haven't seen a write-up that describes my process. I used the radio head unit's cross-brace as the brace for my Navigation head unit, thereby eliminating the need for the mounting brackets Dennis sent to me. Also, I didn't break the tabs on the back side of ac control unit; instead I drilled new holes for those tabs that let me re-locate the ac control unit (to fit the Double DIN bezel). I intentionally mounted the cross-brace and control unit a tiny bit lower than the Double DIN bezel required, and used 3M two-sided tape to fine tune my final install. Worked fine and has been much more flexible (when I subsequently removed the bezel for other purposes - installing instrument gauge face plates and polished gauge rims, etc.).

The real trick here is to drill out the rivets that hold in place the radio head unit cross-brace. Drilling will take time to complete, and in the middle you may wonder, "Uh oh, what did I get myself into?" But keep after it.

Good luck,

The Lizzard

 

There is no stand alone sub in the base or the Bose system in a C5 vette. The Bose does have a CDM, or processor if you will.

It's kinda like the Shaker system but different. The shaker system is actually better because you CAN just replace the speakers and get a better sound because it has separate amps for the door speakers and an amp for the 8" midrange drivers/subs. So basically the Bose is like that with the 8" sub/paper tweeters that have their own amps. But you still can't cover a turd no matter how you try.

But in a Bose system the speakers are amplified individually so you can't just replace them by themselves. You have to add an amp or replace the entire system.

The package that was listed from DD, is for a Non Bose system speaker upgrade unless I'm missing something.

I see you have already made your decision and went with a complete upgrade. You will be happy you did.

Anyway I found this thread during a search I made to look for information on replacing my 3 way front speakers with components. I have some speakers left over from my Shaker upgrade and am going a different way with it so now I have some components left over.

 

Yup, I did a total overhaul. Arc Audio Speakers, Kenwood DNX690HD HU, Kenwood 700/5 Amp, Stealth Sub. I love it. Massive improvement over stock.

 

Kenwood has some new small self contained powered sub's that are great and cheap. I have one and it kicks ***.

 

I just ordered a Sound Ordnance from Crutchfield. I've been reading reviews for two weeks on them before I decided on that one. I was going to get one for my Mustang, then decided to go a different route with it, but I ordered one for my vette to sit right behind my seat.

Kicker has one for 299. with only a year warranty, the Sound Ordnance has a 3 year warranty. I started to get the Kenwood but Crutchfield was out of them and I didn't want to get one through ebay. Too hard to return if something goes wrong.

Crutchfield had the Sound ordnance on sale for 169. with the wiring kit included and free shipping. I did look at DD Mods but I didn't see one on their website.

 

My first mod was had my installer take everything out and sound deaden. I had Dennis make my bezel and got the sound deadening from Dennis. I upgrade my 2004 Z06 Put a Kenwood head unit and I had my 5 channel amp Kenwood put under my passenger seat plenty of room under there. Just a suggestion. Hope that helps

 

This thread is a little dated. I'm done with the sound system:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...er-inside.html

Never considered under the seat though. You'd have to dial the amp in before putting the seat on.