Shifter Problem
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 565
Likes: 143
From: Bedford VA
Shifter Problem
I was aligning my shifter today and my torque wrench didn't yield or I missed the click. As a result, I overtightened and cracked the pinch block that connects the shift box to the rod. Anyone know it this block is easily replaceable and if so, what do I tell Gene Culley at GMPartsHouse that I need? Also, what is required to replace it?
This forum has been a godsend, but I'm afraid sometimes a little knowledge is dangerous.
This forum has been a godsend, but I'm afraid sometimes a little knowledge is dangerous.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 423
Put the torque wrench down and walk away. Those things cause more problems than they solve. You need them when tightening head bolts, main and rod bearings and now (amazingly) wheel lug nuts. Other than that you need to tighten things by feel and experience. Go get some. Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
My parts book shows that coupler is part of/integral to the entire shift rod. The part number for the rod is 12554740. I am sure some of the Vette recyclers could provide one also.
The bad news may be that to replace the rod you might have to pull the transmission since it is attached there. Not sure if the attachment can be accessed from the torque tube opening at the rear or not. I can see what my FSM says when I get home but that is what it looks like from the parts explosion.
The bad news may be that to replace the rod you might have to pull the transmission since it is attached there. Not sure if the attachment can be accessed from the torque tube opening at the rear or not. I can see what my FSM says when I get home but that is what it looks like from the parts explosion.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 352
From: Carson City Nevada
Put the torque wrench down and walk away. Those things cause more problems than they solve. You need them when tightening head bolts, main and rod bearings and now (amazingly) wheel lug nuts. Other than that you need to tighten things by feel and experience. Go get some. Good luck.
Lug nuts!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
Also meant to add that one should never use a torque wrench that has not been calibrated. I am lucky since we have a cal lab at work so I can do it more easily. However, you can do it yourself with a small jig and some weights.
I bought a nice Craftsman wrench years ago and went to cal it first. It was off by 40%. If you wanted 50 ft-lbs, it would not "click" until 70.
I bought a nice Craftsman wrench years ago and went to cal it first. It was off by 40%. If you wanted 50 ft-lbs, it would not "click" until 70.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 565
Likes: 143
From: Bedford VA
My parts book shows that coupler is part of/integral to the entire shift rod. The part number for the rod is 12554740. I am sure some of the Vette recyclers could provide one also.
The bad news may be that to replace the rod you might have to pull the transmission since it is attached there. Not sure if the attachment can be accessed from the torque tube opening at the rear or not. I can see what my FSM says when I get home but that is what it looks like from the parts explosion.
The bad news may be that to replace the rod you might have to pull the transmission since it is attached there. Not sure if the attachment can be accessed from the torque tube opening at the rear or not. I can see what my FSM says when I get home but that is what it looks like from the parts explosion.
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 333
From: Olmsted Falls Ohio
St. Jude Donor '12 thru '24
If the pinch block is not adequately clamping, one of the things you'll notice is that it is harder to cross shifter gates. Since the trans spring loads the rod to the 3-4 gate, when you go to the 1-2, 5-6, or reverse gates, the shifter has to 'twist' the rod and if the clamping bolt is not clamping adequately it will be difficult to 'find' the selected gate. Chances are if you can still easily enter those gates to the left or right of the the 3-4 gate, then you'll not have serious immediate issues but it will eventually need to be fixed. Good luck to you.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
I just looked at the FSM. You have to pull the transmission. The reason is that the shift rod is connected to the tranny using a roll pin. I was afraid of that when the parts manual did not show a bolt back there. Sorry for the bad news.
Your other option could be to take the car to a welder. See if you have enough room to C-clamp the cracked joint closed and have it Tig or Mig welded to reinforce the connector.
You would need to pull the shifter out to do this.
Your other option could be to take the car to a welder. See if you have enough room to C-clamp the cracked joint closed and have it Tig or Mig welded to reinforce the connector.
You would need to pull the shifter out to do this.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
Put the torque wrench down and walk away. Those things cause more problems than they solve. You need them when tightening head bolts, main and rod bearings and now (amazingly) wheel lug nuts. Other than that you need to tighten things by feel and experience. Go get some. Good luck.
Another problem that comes up alot is lack of training on the proper use of a torque wrench. You would be surprised at how many people do not know that the reading will not be correct if their hand is placed closer to the center or further out than where it's supposed to be.
Last edited by Cybermind; Mar 10, 2014 at 12:59 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
Another problem that comes up alot is lack of training on the proper use of a torque wrench. You would be surprised at how many people do not know that the reading will not be correct if their hand is placed closer to the center or further out than where it's supposed to be.[/QUOTE]
You must have torque wrenches like I have never seen. I could put an extension on the handle of any of mine and it would not affect the reading. It would be impossible.
You must have torque wrenches like I have never seen. I could put an extension on the handle of any of mine and it would not affect the reading. It would be impossible.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,109
Likes: 4,137
From: Kannapolis NC
[QUOTE=Cybermind;1586368010]I disagree. What you should be saying is "put the CHEAP torque wrench down". I agree with you that cheap torque wrenches can cause more harm than good. However, using a properly calibrated high quality torque wrench is a must when working on cars. You cannot properly and consistently "tighten by feel". Usually, most people discover that you tend to overtighten nuts and bolts when going "by feel".
Another problem that comes up alot is lack of training on the proper use of a torque wrench. You would be surprised at how many people do not know that the reading will not be correct if their hand is placed closer to the center or further out than where it's supposed to be.[/QUOTE]
That's funny. omg
Another problem that comes up alot is lack of training on the proper use of a torque wrench. You would be surprised at how many people do not know that the reading will not be correct if their hand is placed closer to the center or further out than where it's supposed to be.[/QUOTE]
That's funny. omg
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
[QUOTE=65GGvert;1586383360]
Go ahead and laugh. Maybe you should look into how torque wrenches work. It's a fact. It's the first thing you learn when working in the aerospace industry.
Here's what Snap-on instructs (Step 12):
TorqueWrench08.pdf
I disagree. What you should be saying is "put the CHEAP torque wrench down". I agree with you that cheap torque wrenches can cause more harm than good. However, using a properly calibrated high quality torque wrench is a must when working on cars. You cannot properly and consistently "tighten by feel". Usually, most people discover that you tend to overtighten nuts and bolts when going "by feel".
Another problem that comes up alot is lack of training on the proper use of a torque wrench. You would be surprised at how many people do not know that the reading will not be correct if their hand is placed closer to the center or further out than where it's supposed to be.[/QUOTE]
That's funny. omg
Another problem that comes up alot is lack of training on the proper use of a torque wrench. You would be surprised at how many people do not know that the reading will not be correct if their hand is placed closer to the center or further out than where it's supposed to be.[/QUOTE]
That's funny. omg
Here's what Snap-on instructs (Step 12):
TorqueWrench08.pdf
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,109
Likes: 4,137
From: Kannapolis NC
I'm just wondering how much torque was put on the old Volkswagen wheel bearing nuts when mechanics put a three foot long extension (a hollow drive shaft piece) on the torque wrench and stood on it so they could get a click at xxx ft lbs. I saw it many times in a VW repair shop.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
I'm just wondering how much torque was put on the old Volkswagen wheel bearing nuts when mechanics put a three foot long extension (a hollow drive shaft piece) on the torque wrench and stood on it so they could get a click at xxx ft lbs. I saw it many times in a VW repair shop.
Times have changed and C5's are not old Volkswagens. The use of more exotic and lighter materials coupled with tighter tolerances make proper torqueing crucial. This is especially critical when torqueing a steel bolt on anything aluminum.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
I'll do that as you have my curiosity up. Of course curiosity is what also killed the cat. I resect your standing your ground. I plan to be back out to the nuclear plant soon and I will look at the SnapOn wrenches they have. I have had to do a number of bolted joint calculations after work is done and the "recal" of a wrench is off. Big deal in a nuke plant because the equipment is normally back in service when we get the call.
Most of the SnapOn ones at the plant are the type with a dial. I would like to look at the various types so I can either figure why they say that or be able to better discuss. I will also talk to the Mechanic trainers I know and see what the training material for them says. I know the design of my wrenches and there is no way any adjustment of grip will affect the reading or "click" setting.
I have made a number of extensions to increase the torque ability of my wrenches for large torque applications like a Dana 60. I know that end change is a big deal.
Not too old to learn, do it a little every day. Mr. Sam
