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First of all, is this really the best design they could come up with??? GEEZ!
I've done quite a bit of research already and you all will be happy to know that there has been penetrating oil soaking into the vertical and horizontal mechanisms since last night.
Tried to move it a hair but barely put any pressure at all on it because I am TERRIFIED I'm going to snap one of these things. If anyone has done this....I mean once the oil has set in, how much force should I have to give it to move? Should it be REALLY free flowing? I'll liken it to a regular screw...you have to torque it a little bit at first but then it's pretty smooth. Is that typical amount of force for a regular screw SAFE to apply to the goldenrod to get things moving? There is obviously a point where you know you are torqueing hard that I would avoid regardless. Just trying to get input and I know it's tough to articulate.
The one thing I wanted to confirm 100% is that to adjust vertical, you use a torx at the end of that golden rod that feeds into the mechanism correct? And for the horizontal adjustment its the first screw that you can actually access simply by popping out that little disk? For a while I was looking at the vertical adjustment thinking I had to get my hands down on the mechanism itself. Pretty sure I'm right on this but thought I would confirm anyway.
Thanks to DeeGee for a great write up on adjusting these things. One thing that isn't addressed is clockwise/counterclockwise. My driver's side headlight is in good position. Truth be told they aren't too bad at all but the passenger side headlight is tilted high slightly. Probably just a few degrees really.............So I want my first adjustment to be lowering of the passenger side. Do I turn the rod clockwise or counterclockwise to lower the headlight? I figure at least this way if it breaks I'm not running the risk of setting if OFF even more, even if only slightly.
Thanks for the help guys. Once these things are sitting perfect, I'll take some pics and post. RadioFlyerACA projectors look amazing. Just want them set perfectly.
I installed my Radioflyer projector headlights yesterday. I adjusted the vertical aim by turning the adjustment in the clockwise position. This raised the headlight beam. Took all of about 5 minutes for both sides. I didn't have a Torx socket but I used a 10mm socket and it worked just fine for me.
When I installed the headlights I didn't know it would take me 45 minutes to get the headlight covers to fit properly so that the gaps were even all around the bumper and hood. Took me some fine adjustments to get it just right. However, the install of the headlights were a breeze. I'd highly recommend Radioflyer. George is very easy to work with and I talked to him on the phone a couple of times about my corner lights. He provides excellent customer service!
If you're adjusting the stock lights, spray the rods (threads) of the adjusters with WD40 and wait a few minutes. Then slowly move the adjustment screw back and forth to insure the shaft and adjustment screw are not 'frozen' together, repeat if necessary.
"Then slowly move the adjustment screw back and forth to insure the shaft and adjustment screw are not 'frozen' together"
which arrow points to the adjustment screw. The shaft/goldenrod is obvious but here are a lot of screws around there. Which screw specifically are you saying to rock back and fourth.
I didn't lubricate the golden rods when I was adjusting them. I just gently turned it in one direction and it started moving. Mind you, my car only has 40K miles on it and was a one owner Vette. It was extremely taken care of so I haven't had most issues talk about here on the forum.
As stated above, use some lubricant like WD-40 and that should help it move a bit.
okay maybe I'm being too gentle. My car has 25k on the clock and doesn't see weather so shouldn't be that bad. I'm just barely giving it anything. I'll see how it goes tonight.
The vertical and horizontal adjustment screws are at the end of the adjustment rods as seen in the last picture of the link posted. They are a star shaped end and a proper size socket will be needed to turn them. ( I don't remember the size). Lubricate, then nudge one way then the other until you feel movement.
Because I was replacing the nylon inner headlight gears with a brass gear kit, I completely removed the headlight buckets from the car. With the buckets out, I soaked the **** out of the "golden rod" gears with PB Blaster. At first, the "golden rods" would not budge at all. So, I let them sit and soaked them again - still no luck. After about 24 hours of spraying and soaking, the rods broke loose with little effort. It's much easier to get at the "golden rod" gears with the buckets out. My car, by the way, is an '03 with about 35K miles. As you probably already know, new "golden rods" are difficult if not impossible to find. Do not rush the project - take your time and they will come loose. If you haven't done it yet, I'd strongly suggest you replace the nylon headlight gears with brass ones, too.
Last edited by Cosmo Kramer; Apr 9, 2014 at 08:53 PM.
Use PB Blaster to get stuck things free. WD40 has an entirely different purpose. PB Blaster will free your headlight adjusters. Give it time and just a little movement each day. After it's free, you can use WD40 to lubricate it.
Okay I got these things to move a little bit last night. Didn't make a full turn at all. Started to get a little more resistance at about 180 degrees on both. Re-sprayed with penetrating oil and turned them a little bit more. Letting soak for another 24 hours but I'm pretty sure tonight I should be able to align the headlights. Penetrating oil has been sitting for over 48 hours.
If anyone else has to go through this, PM me and we can set up a call. The write-ups are good but verbal guidance would be beneficial. Huge PITA.
It may help to twist forwards and backwards a little at a time to loosen things up. Once you can make a full turn, then adjust in the direction you need to go.
I had to completely disassemble mine in order to make them work. Over the years of not being moved one iota, the grease internal to the adjusting "differentials" had pretty much solidified. After taking them apart and cleaning them thoroughly, fresh grease brought them back from the dead. As mentioned, if you encounter resistance, the last thing you want is to break off the golden rod.
well both horizontals are free and the driver headlight vertical adjuster makes a full term but after three days and a whole can of penetrating oil, the passenger verticals adjuster just won't free. I decided to just raise the driver side to level with the passenger and they are both maybe a couple degrees too high but not blinding to traffic and look great.
Hopefully I never have to adjust these things again because I'm not sure I'll be able to ever get that passenger side free.
I found yesterday that one of the goldenrods on the passenger side is already broken off, probably by a previous owner who tried moving it without oiling it first. I'll use PB Blaster to free up the others. The passenger side lights appear to be aimed OK. The driver's side needs to be raised and moved horizontally, but both rods are there.
I found yesterday that one of the goldenrods on the passenger side is already broken off, probably by a previous owner who tried moving it without oiling it first. I'll use PB Blaster to free up the others. The passenger side lights appear to be aimed OK. The driver's side needs to be raised and moved horizontally, but both rods are there.
Suggestion before making adjustments. If it appears to be just one of the lights (high/or low) being off as compared to the passenger side, make sure the bulbs are both seated properly into the headlight sockets.
Suggestion before making adjustments. If it appears to be just one of the lights (high/or low) being off as compared to the passenger side, make sure the bulbs are both seated properly into the sockets.