My luck is never ending.

Goodyear says I need to replace the compressor. I wasn't about to throw 1300$. They evacuated my hvac of refrigerant after testing. They said there was green dye everywhere pretty much.

My ac has been blowing hot. A year ago I replaced the actuators so I know it's not that.

How do you tell if the compressor or clutch is faulty and truly needs replacement? If I do in fact need replacing...I'm definitely doing a diy install and then I'll have a pro charge the refrigerant and so forth...where I can i get a full replacement kit on the cheapo including a compressor and clutch and orifice and anything else I may need that probably needs replacing due to a capped out compressor?

Thanks
Mason

 

Anyone have input ? I'm sure someone else has gone through the same thing

 

I saw a thread a forum member did with pictures on how to replace comp and dryer. I have better results searching on google which points to this forum. Didn't ref where he got parts

 

Rock Auto has OK prices. Thats where I got my Compressor, orifice, dryer. I followed the DIY instructions in the Tech section. Including the vacuum and charge.
Bought the suction pump, gauge set and flush tool from Amazon.

The condition of the orifice is key, in my opinion. If its super dirty, then do the flush. If not, replace the parts, vacuum test for leaks and charge.

 

My dealership told me that a new AC compressor would be $750. I bought a new one on Amazon.com for a little less than half that price. I'll finally have AC again on Tuesday after two years without it.

 

Appreciate everyone's replies. I've been looking into a lot of this and I think, providing I can clear out the garage, I am ready to tackle this job while I do the shocks as well. Seems as though both require raising the vehicle, kill 2 birds with 1 stone!

Does anyone know about this vendor? Is this a good deal?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Corvette-97-04-A-C-AC-Compressor-Repair-Kit-/310313556491?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorvette&hash=item4840211a0b&vxp=mtr
Mason

 

Has anyone purchased from discountacparts and had any luck?

 

I haven't personally used them, but look at their feedback....over 99% positive for more than 4000 transactions. That seems good to me.

Replacing the AC pieces and parts is pretty easy....on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being very easy...like figuring out how to put the key in the ignition...doing the ac work is ~maybe~ a 4.
Cleanliness is key....remember that SOMETHING killed your old compressor. So, when you get the old compressor off, remove, flush, and use compressed air to blow out the low and high side ac lines. This will remove any contaminants and debris from the lines.
In addition to the compressor, I'd suggest that you replace the condenser as well. The reason is that the condenser is like a radiator for the ac system...it has small passages that are not easily cleaned, and can harbor nasties that will come back to kill your new compressor. There is a special ac system flush that you can buy, I've used denatured alcohol with great success. If you absolutely cannot afford to replace the condenser, then at least remove and flush it as thoroughly as possible. When flushing / blowing it out, you want to see clear fluid / air coming out.

Replace the orifice tube.

After you remove the old orifice tube, and before you install the new one, be sure to flush and blow out the evaporator core. You will not replace this part unless you are a true masochist.

Be sure that you add the PAG oil in the prescribed quantities to the receiver / dryer and to the compressor. After you put it into the compressor, rotate the clutch by hand a few revolutions to get the inside of the compressor lubed up. Then install the compressor. Some of the oil WILL come back out of the compressor manifold between the time that you put the compressor into place and you actually get the @!##$!! top bolt into the compressor...there was a long break at this point for me, I didn't care if ALL the oil leaked out by then...
THEN you have to figure out how to get the ~!@#$$#@ ac manifold bolt back in without cross-threading it....it is truly in a wonderful position....

After you've done all this, only now should you install the receiver / dryer. Up to this point, having it installed would have just made the job more difficult for you, and you really don't want it open to the atmosphere any longer than absolutely necessary.

Make sure to put the orifice tube in facing the correct direction....it DOES matter.

Make sure that ALL o-ring and gasket surfaces are CLEAN and lubed with PAG prior to assembly.

Vacuum the system for minimum of 30 minutes; after you've achieved a vacuum, let it set for 10 minutes. Find and kill the source of ANY leak.

The system holds about 2 lbs of freon. Put it into the low side (big hose.)

Make sure you hold the can(s) of freon upright....this makes the freon come out of the can(s) as a gas. Gas is good. If you hold it upside-down, the freon will come out as a liquid. Liquid freon in your car's ac system is a very bad thing.

You can start the car and begin putting the freon into the system. The car won't allow the ac sytem to engage the clutch on the compressor until some magical amount of freon is present; you can push the ac button on the control head all you want, the system won't work until you've got enough freon.

I've tried to list all the helpful tidbits I can think of, I hope that this helps you!

Regards,
KoreaJon

 

Appreciate everyones help! Spent all of yesterday replacing the compressor and accumulator and just took it to a shop to have them charge it. Its blowing colder than when I first got it!

Hard work does pay off!

Mason

 

Did you have to remove the water pump to get to the compressor.

 

Yeah, I can't see any other way you could do it without removing the water pump

 

I'm going to be swapping out my compressor when I'm doing the blower install later this year. Have any tips to share?

 

Everything KoreaJon recommended. I didn't replace the condensor but I would recommend cleaning it. Replace the accumulator and orifice tube with it, put in new O-rings. I did out 2oz of oil in both the accumulator and the compressor (it wasn't pre oiled). I actually cleaned my engine in advance so I knew what I was working with, I definitely recommend working on a clean engine bay, easier to work with things because theres a lot of angles and repositioning of tubes, hoses, etc to get out little nuts.

I definitely recommend having a second pair of hands, when it comes to the water pump, at least when putting it back in.

I basically just followed junkman's diy instructions and that did the trick. It takes a lot of patience. There's not much room to work with.

Mason