When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Today I ran my car at the track and my clutch peddle would get stuck All the way down and I would have to use my foot to raise it back up...This same thing happened with my c5.. Now I have a z06 and it happened again. ..is this something normal or something to worry about?
It's a issue that many have had, sometimes fresh fluid will help, I had the same problem up until replacing my clutch with the McLeod twin and since then it's never reared its ugly head again, definitely during a clutch upgrade go ahead and add the remote bleeder and the rest of the goodies.
But clean fluid might help till other changes are considered.
The clutch wasn't slipping at all and on the regular day basis I don't have any problems out of it...but I had the same problem with my c5 and the clutch never went out...I'll try to change out the fluids and see if that helps bit ...hopefully I don't have to replace the clutch
it's one of two things. the pressure plate design or the hydraulic system. i changed the fluid in my clutch at least 20 times before it got better {ranger method} one real flush would do the same
if you race a clutch like the monster level 1 or 2 is much better suited
the ls6 clutch is an easy to drive around town clutch that can take light duty hard driving and no mods.
it is not at all a race clutch or something that holds up well under stress
Yup, totally normal. I've had it happen on the street, too. Supposedly, the Tick master cylinder will also remedy the situation, but I broke my trans before I got the opportunity to get the new master cylinder out of its box and install it, so I can't speak as to the validity of that statement. Now that my trans is out, I'll be replacing the clutch and slave so I don't have to worry about it anymore (hopefully)
I did that for weeks and it only would stop the sticking for two launches... then it was back to acting weird
Well, as was mentioned in the article I posted, it mentions that once the damage is done, no amount of fluid changes will help it. Let's just hope it helps the OP.
"The good news is that we have figured out the root cause. That means the preventative maintenance (frequent swaps of the fluid via the master cylinder reservoir) definitely works. It also explains why, if the seals are already damaged by clutch dust, no amount of clean fluid will heal them. The crucial element is prevention, never allowing the clutch dust to accumulate in the fluid. The tell of its presence is murkiness or cloudiness. So don’t allow the fluid to stay murky."
Quoted by Mr. Ranger himself
Last edited by LiteraCola; Apr 14, 2014 at 11:23 AM.
Well, as was mentioned in the article I posted, it mentions that once the damage is done, no amount of fluid changes will help it. Let's just hope it helps the OP.
"The good news is that we have figured out the root cause. That means the preventative maintenance (frequent swaps of the fluid via the master cylinder reservoir) definitely works. It also explains why, if the seals are already damaged by clutch dust, no amount of clean fluid will heal them. The crucial element is prevention, never allowing the clutch dust to accumulate in the fluid. The tell of its presence is murkiness or cloudiness. So don’t allow the fluid to stay murky."
Quoted by Mr. Ranger himself
Oh, yeah... I went through the whole thing with my car
I wasn't discounting the idea, I know it works, I was just letting the OP know that it doesn't always solve the issue
My car only had 15k on it when I bought it and started rangering the fluid... as I said, it helps a lot, but it's very temporary. My car will be getting a speed bleeder while everything is pulled apart.
I had that happen after I upgrade HP to 450 at the wheels. I ended up going with an LS7 clutch and fw and the problem is gone. This happened after hard WOT pulls on the street.
I put in a tick master cylinder when I had that problem.. and mine would stick at anything above 3k.. never has stuck since putting in the Tick Highly recommend it.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
mine has had this problem since I've owned the car... I have flushed the fluid (via a remote bleeder) several times, used expensive fluid, and installed a tick master cylinder and nothing completely fixed the issue... I'm in the middle of installing a twin disc so hopefully that solves the problem
Bullshjt. I did new hydraulics and new fluid and the problem persists. I blame the self adjusting pressure plate. You guys can swing off Ranger's nuts all day long, but there's no way I can pull out of my driveway stone cold and boil the clutch fluid by the time I hit 3rd gear. I'm glad it works for him, but it's NOT the end all he claims it to be and that just drives me up the friggin wall.
Bullshjt. I did new hydraulics and new fluid and the problem persists. I blame the self adjusting pressure plate. You guys can swing off Ranger's nuts all day long, but there's no way I can pull out of my driveway stone cold and boil the clutch fluid by the time I hit 3rd gear. I'm glad it works for him, but it's NOT the end all he claims it to be and that just drives me up the friggin wall.
that self adjusting plate seems to be the most logical problem to me too
clutches are "okay" with 100% stock hp levels
beyond that or driven hard, even stock, problems come on
a monster 1, even on OE hydro doesn't do this
nor does the ls7 which was designed for more power than a stock c5z
the real tell is how the ls6 clutch works great at 3/4 throttle, can drive it hard, at full throttle or bumped hp it starts to stick
Heres another vote for the stock clutch/pressure plate being the problem.
The common denominator for mine was always RPM. Could drive around all day on the street, even with some spirit, and the stock clutch was fine. If I made a 2nd-4th pass to 6500 rpm, pedal was stuck to the floor.
If the hydraulics were "sticky" from dirty fluid(mine was crystal clear), I'd imagine Id get some feedback from the pedal even during normal driving. No amount of Ranger'ing my clutch fluid did a damn thing.
Putting in a Mantic ER2 single right now actually. Hoping it puts my pedal problems to bed for good
Last edited by Cheesecake 07; Apr 15, 2014 at 04:48 AM.
Heres another vote for the stock clutch/pressure plate being the problem.
The common denominator for mine was always RPM. Could drive around all day on the street, even with some spirit, and the stock clutch was fine. If I made a 2nd-4th pass to 6500 rpm, pedal was stuck to the floor.
If the hydraulics were "sticky" from dirty fluid(mine was crystal clear), I'd imagine Id get some feedback from the pedal even during normal driving. No amount of Ranger'ing my clutch fluid did a damn thing.
Putting in a Mantic ER2 single right now actually. Hoping it puts my pedal problems to bed for good
I was planning to order the same clutch since my trans is torn out right now anyway... do you have the Tick master?
I was planning to order the same clutch since my trans is torn out right now anyway... do you have the Tick master?
Naa…stock master, new slave, remote bleeder and pilot. I really don't feel like the master has anything to do with the sticky pedal, in my case anyway. I know guys running 800hp+ on factory C5 hydraulics and have been for years. They put a bleeder on and bleed the system at each oil change.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.