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Old May 8, 2014 | 11:46 PM
  #1  
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Default Headlite Help

Headlites come on but will not go up, just changed the turn signal switch and no help...looked at the control box and it looks like someone has been in it, I notice when I plug and unplug the box,the contacts inside click. Ive only had the car a week and dont know any history...Thanks in advance for any help with this, Its a pain cranking those lites by hand.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 11:13 AM
  #2  
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I had 1 headlight that wouldn't go up. I took apart the control box that is located by the passenger headlight and it had a lot of water damage so I bought a used one and put it in there. It fixed my headlight problem. Good luck.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 11:14 AM
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Pull your DIC codes and see what shows up.

I would assume both fuses are good? At least one should be if the module makes some noise.

Did they work when you first bought it?
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Old May 9, 2014 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Pull your DIC codes and see what shows up.

I would assume both fuses are good? At least one should be if the module makes some noise.

Did they work when you first bought it?
They never did go up, I just checked pin D in wires and it showed good ground. Everything on the turn switch works except lites to go up. Should I try another control box or is there another place to look...Thanks again for any info.
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Old May 10, 2014 | 08:15 AM
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Codes?
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Old May 10, 2014 | 10:55 AM
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[QUOTE=dadaroo;1586865218]Codes?[ Got 26 codes from Dic, Most were from the 40-bcm, is there one place to look for the codes for the headlites not going up...Thanks Again
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Old May 10, 2014 | 11:46 AM
  #7  
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Record all your codes and then clear them. Then try to raise the headlights again and then pull your codes again and post them.

We can discuss earlier codes that did not show up later. Once you do this we can discuss diagnostics.

Do you know how to use a multimeter for resistance and voltage?
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Old May 10, 2014 | 11:56 AM
  #8  
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Do you know if the car has been modified to add HID lights?
If so it is fairly common for the lights to not come up. Try turning the switch off and on quickly and see if they work.


Also there is a rubber boot over the headlight motor, remove it and turn the **** on the end of the motor and see if they raise. This will check out the gear assy. for the lights. (I believe you turn it clockwise to raise them.
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Old May 10, 2014 | 02:59 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Record all your codes and then clear them. Then try to raise the headlights again and then pull your codes again and post them.

We can discuss earlier codes that did not show up later. Once you do this we can discuss diagnostics.

Do you know how to use a multimeter for resistance and voltage?
Only one code remained after second scan...40BCM B2527 HC...Removed headlite control module again, still hearing that clicking from inside box when I plug and unplug it. Thanks again for all your help with this.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:05 AM
  #10  
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That is a horn code so it says something is wrong with the circuit. We can work on that after the lights.

We now need to see if power is getting to the door motors.

You did not answer my question about multimeter use because you will need to use one for the diagnostics or get a friend to help.

I want to see if voltage is getting to the motors when you request the door to go open.

Unplug the connector for the driver side at the headlights. Find the Light Green and Dark Green wires. Put the positive voltmeter lead on the Light Green wire/pin and the negative on the Dark Green wire/pin. Then turn the headlights on and see if you get about 12 volts. This will be a 2 person job unless you extend your leads. You MUST make sure you have good contact on the pins/wires so you get a true reading of something or nothing.

Based on what you get there, you can do the same thing on the passenger side except substitute Light Blue and Dark Blue for the wire colors.

Let me know what you get.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 12:15 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
That is a horn code so it says something is wrong with the circuit. We can work on that after the lights.

We now need to see if power is getting to the door motors.

You did not answer my question about multimeter use because you will need to use one for the diagnostics or get a friend to help.

I want to see if voltage is getting to the motors when you request the door to go open.

Unplug the connector for the driver side at the headlights. Find the Light Green and Dark Green wires. Put the positive voltmeter lead on the Light Green wire/pin and the negative on the Dark Green wire/pin. Then turn the headlights on and see if you get about 12 volts. This will be a 2 person job unless you extend your leads. You MUST make sure you have good contact on the pins/wires so you get a true reading of something or nothing.

Based on what you get there, you can do the same thing on the passenger side except substitute Light Blue and Dark Blue for the wire colors.

Let me know what you get.
I took the car to work today,,,A fellow Firefighter got the lites to go up and down hooking 12volts to the wires you said to test...He thinks control module, Im at the point of not knowing what to think!..The Horn is stuck on and the relay in the upper fuse box was missing, when i put the relay in the horn blows till i remove it,,, are these 2 problems related in any way...Thanks again for your time.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 06:53 AM
  #12  
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The two problems are unrelated. You did prove that the motors and gears work which is great.

With that said, I would replace the control module.

Your problem with the horn is most likely the membrane in the steering wheel is stuck.
This is a very common issue and you might be able to remove it and get it freed or just replace it. Here is the schematic.



Here is a link to help, you might find more out there. REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FIRST AND WAIT 3 MINUTES FIRST. That way it is SAFE to work around the airbag.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1586035480

Keep me posted and feel free to ask any questions. I like success stories. Mr.Sam
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Old May 12, 2014 | 08:39 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
The two problems are unrelated. You did prove that the motors and gears work which is great.

With that said, I would replace the control module.

Your problem with the horn is most likely the membrane in the steering wheel is stuck.
This is a very common issue and you might be able to remove it and get it freed or just replace it. Here is the schematic.



Here is a link to help, you might find more out there. REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FIRST AND WAIT 3 MINUTES FIRST. That way it is SAFE to work around the airbag.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1586035480

Keep me posted and feel free to ask any questions. I like success stories. Mr.Sam
Just drove home from work and checked codes again, I got A1-RDCM B2265H plus the horn code...I will order a Control Mod. today, and again thanks for all the info. Bob
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Old May 12, 2014 | 09:26 AM
  #14  
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That is a code for the Right Door Control Module (RDCM). A common issue to throw random codes on the doors and seats. I would not worry about it unless you actually start having actual "failures" and then we can fix them.

The actual code is for the mirror. Horizontal position sensor fault. If it totally fails should only affect Memory settings and not motor function.

If you ever just want to discuss an issue just PM me with your phone number.

I'm retired and don't have to rush around putting out fires. Just drink beer and smoke cigars.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 07:54 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
I'm retired and don't have to rush around putting out fires. Just drink beer and smoke cigars.
Nothing wrong with that Sam !

On a side note: Sam is a truely great and helpful guy, along with several others around here who go out of their way to help a fellow Vette Brother out !


Ask me how i know
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Old May 13, 2014 | 11:46 PM
  #16  
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Before replacing the expensive control module look at the plastic tabs (bump stops) the scissor arms rest against when open and closed. If the tabs have indents in them from wear and tear over the years this will cause the lights to not raise when turned on. Sounds unbelievable but believe me this was my problem. And the best part is the tabs were only $2.89 a piece. More than likely it is the tabs the arms rest on in the down position that are worn out.
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