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I lowered my car, 2001 coupe, using the stock bolts. I took before and after measurements at the top of the fender wells and to the nearest 1/8". Here's what I got:
Before:
LF = 27 5/8"
RF = 27 5/8"
LR = 28 7/8
RR = 28 3/4
After:
LF = 27 1/4"
RF = 26 7/8"
LR = 28 1/8"
RR = 28 1/8"
I decided to lower all 4 corners all the way down and adjust up from there if it was too low. I got ~ 3/4" drop from all but the left front which only dropped 3/8". All 4 bolts turned the same number of rotations more or less. The difference between the front left and right is visibly noticeable. I'm happy with the wheel to well uniformity except for the front left. How can I get that extra 3/8" drop on LF? I really don't want to have to lift the RF, it looks great as it is with my new wheels (18/19")
Did this last week, checked today to see if it would settle out and it is still the same. Can I change just the one bolt? Looks to me like the longer bolts on the back could achieve more drop but this would not work for the front.
Take your sway bar bushings apart and put grease inside the rubber part where it wraps around the bar. Yours are probably stuck to the bar and causing bind which is holding up the ride height.
ETA: You should also try to find a local race shop with scales, the body panels on these cars can vary a lot so for purposes of handling you'd be better off setting the ride height on scales to balance the corner weights.
The longer bolts will get the back lower but not the front like you said. There are bubber bushings on the front bolts between the spring and the bolt bottom. You can trim them down a bit so you have some adjustment for both sides. That way you can adjust them both to get the desired gap you are looking for. I had to take my spring off as my bolts were froze into the spring. I cut them down while it was out so I can't tell you how difficult it will be while it's still installed. I know some on here have done it so maybe they will chime in and let you know how it's done.
All 4 bolts turned the same number of rotations more or less.
My understanding is that the adjuster bushings compress unevenly over time: you need to turn the two on each axle the same number of full turns, so they're oriented the same way as they were before relative to the load.