C5 wheel sizes?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 31,495
Likes: 1,313
From: Huntsville AL
C5 wheel sizes?
OK, at least for the base model coupe and convertible the wheel sizes are 17 x 8.5 front and 18 x 9.5 rear, is that correct?
Has anyone ever put the same size wheels on the front and rear of their C5?
I imagine that the 18 inch rears are too wide for the front.
Are the front wheels to small / narrow / wrong offset / whatever for the rears?
I am not asking about performance / handing issues, just wondering if you could run the same size factory wheels and tires on a C5?
And before anyone asks why I would even consider doing something like this, I am thinking "spare", "tire rotation" advantages.
One more thing I just thought of, any issues with traction control or active handling when using same size wheel and tire front and rear?
Has anyone ever put the same size wheels on the front and rear of their C5?
I imagine that the 18 inch rears are too wide for the front.
Are the front wheels to small / narrow / wrong offset / whatever for the rears?
I am not asking about performance / handing issues, just wondering if you could run the same size factory wheels and tires on a C5?
And before anyone asks why I would even consider doing something like this, I am thinking "spare", "tire rotation" advantages.
One more thing I just thought of, any issues with traction control or active handling when using same size wheel and tire front and rear?
Last edited by emccomas; Jun 4, 2014 at 09:09 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,139
Likes: 4,156
From: Kannapolis NC
Changing sizes affects many things. Stock Corvette tires aren't rotated because the back are different sizes, no only in height, but width. They are also directional so they must be run on the correct side, so rotation is out. There is also no spare (and no jack) in a C5, thus runflats or an air compressor and stop leak.
The important thing is the overall diameter of the rear tires must be at least 1/2" and no more than 1 1/2" taller than the front or active handling and traction control will kick in and limit performance and apply brakes because it thinks the rear tires are turning the wrong speed for the front speed. If you put on the same size (18", for example) wheels all around, you must change the tire size to stay within that 1/2 to 1 1/2" difference.
I know you haven't gotten your Vette yet, you really need to read the sticky at the top:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ngths-etc.html
And this:
Quote:
● The little yellow “helper light” on the bottom of the rear-view mirror that illuminates the shifter area.
● That you can put your key in the driver’s door and turn it twice towards the front to unlock the passenger door and a third time to pop the trunk.
● That you can pop the trunk and also pop the gas cap cover by pulling on metal lines hidden in the back.
● The little slotted cover on the dash behind the steering wheel is where the inside air temperature sensor is located.
● All of the option codes are in the glove box.
● Tire inflation recommended pressures are on the driver’s door.
● The thing that looks like a little LED near the DIC buttons is a light sensor.
● The thing that looks like a little LED near the defroster vent is a UV sensor for determining A/C usage to compensate for the heating effect of the sun.
● The build sheet is in the front re-bar.
● If you leave your turn signal on, in about 1 minute it will start to ding (loud enough to hear over the stereo) to let you know you have old timers disease.
● You can reset the oil life by pumping the gas pedal 3 times (but not with the engine running).
● Hold down the reset button while on one of the trip odometers and it changes that reading to the miles you’ve traveled since last starting the engine.
● Hold down the Active Handling button for 5 sec. to engage “Competitive Driving” on cars equipped with active handling (2000 and previous years must be stopped.)
● If you pull the seatbelts all the way out while you’re buckled in, they ratchet back in to hold you tighter into the seat. (then move the seat forward to make it extra snug -- Leafty)
● Simply remove fuse #2 under the hood and your DRLs will be out permanently. Only thing affected is that when you unlock at night using the key fob your front turn signal lights and back up lights will not flash. Your front turn signals will operate normally, however.
● The side-view mirrors can twist both forward and backward, decreasing the chance of damage if struck.
● There is a release opening with a flap to let air out of the car when the hatch is closed. It is located just above the driver side rear compartment behind the carpet and on the side of the car. Not that it really works well.
● Also you can ground your amp to a screw/bolt that holds the rear middle compartment to the frame.
● If you have a 6-speed car you can pop the trunk when the car is running by lifting the e-brake.
● There is a spot on the driver side just out of the middle compartment under the carpet for the lug nut key. You should have a compartment on the drivers & passenger’s side (in the trunk) and a center compartment. On the left (drivers) side of the center compartment, on the left side where the center cover fits, there is an ‘indent’ that holds the wheel lock key.
● If you turn on the headlights, then go to parking light position, the lamps remain up but the headlights are not left on.
● If you have the passive entry feature: If you lock the keys in the car, wait a few minutes and then shake the car. That will unlock the car.
● HUD has a shift light for the manuals.
● You can easily shift the M6 trans up or down without the clutch if you match revs. (Not great for longevity, however.)
● You can eject the cd from the in-dash player without turning on any power. Don’t even need key in the ignition.
● The cruise will disengage if you purposely make sharp side to side turns while cruising at say 60-80 mph.
● When the engine is shut off, you can get the odometer reading by turning on the parking lights.
● You can program setting #3 (both memory buttons at once) in the seat memory to run the seat back and steering wheel forward for getting in/out of the car with the engine running.
● If you hate DRLs you can pull the e-brake ONE click and they go off.
The important thing is the overall diameter of the rear tires must be at least 1/2" and no more than 1 1/2" taller than the front or active handling and traction control will kick in and limit performance and apply brakes because it thinks the rear tires are turning the wrong speed for the front speed. If you put on the same size (18", for example) wheels all around, you must change the tire size to stay within that 1/2 to 1 1/2" difference.
I know you haven't gotten your Vette yet, you really need to read the sticky at the top:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ngths-etc.html
And this:
Quote:
● The little yellow “helper light” on the bottom of the rear-view mirror that illuminates the shifter area.
● That you can put your key in the driver’s door and turn it twice towards the front to unlock the passenger door and a third time to pop the trunk.
● That you can pop the trunk and also pop the gas cap cover by pulling on metal lines hidden in the back.
● The little slotted cover on the dash behind the steering wheel is where the inside air temperature sensor is located.
● All of the option codes are in the glove box.
● Tire inflation recommended pressures are on the driver’s door.
● The thing that looks like a little LED near the DIC buttons is a light sensor.
● The thing that looks like a little LED near the defroster vent is a UV sensor for determining A/C usage to compensate for the heating effect of the sun.
● The build sheet is in the front re-bar.
● If you leave your turn signal on, in about 1 minute it will start to ding (loud enough to hear over the stereo) to let you know you have old timers disease.
● You can reset the oil life by pumping the gas pedal 3 times (but not with the engine running).
● Hold down the reset button while on one of the trip odometers and it changes that reading to the miles you’ve traveled since last starting the engine.
● Hold down the Active Handling button for 5 sec. to engage “Competitive Driving” on cars equipped with active handling (2000 and previous years must be stopped.)
● If you pull the seatbelts all the way out while you’re buckled in, they ratchet back in to hold you tighter into the seat. (then move the seat forward to make it extra snug -- Leafty)
● Simply remove fuse #2 under the hood and your DRLs will be out permanently. Only thing affected is that when you unlock at night using the key fob your front turn signal lights and back up lights will not flash. Your front turn signals will operate normally, however.
● The side-view mirrors can twist both forward and backward, decreasing the chance of damage if struck.
● There is a release opening with a flap to let air out of the car when the hatch is closed. It is located just above the driver side rear compartment behind the carpet and on the side of the car. Not that it really works well.
● Also you can ground your amp to a screw/bolt that holds the rear middle compartment to the frame.
● If you have a 6-speed car you can pop the trunk when the car is running by lifting the e-brake.
● There is a spot on the driver side just out of the middle compartment under the carpet for the lug nut key. You should have a compartment on the drivers & passenger’s side (in the trunk) and a center compartment. On the left (drivers) side of the center compartment, on the left side where the center cover fits, there is an ‘indent’ that holds the wheel lock key.
● If you turn on the headlights, then go to parking light position, the lamps remain up but the headlights are not left on.
● If you have the passive entry feature: If you lock the keys in the car, wait a few minutes and then shake the car. That will unlock the car.
● HUD has a shift light for the manuals.
● You can easily shift the M6 trans up or down without the clutch if you match revs. (Not great for longevity, however.)
● You can eject the cd from the in-dash player without turning on any power. Don’t even need key in the ignition.
● The cruise will disengage if you purposely make sharp side to side turns while cruising at say 60-80 mph.
● When the engine is shut off, you can get the odometer reading by turning on the parking lights.
● You can program setting #3 (both memory buttons at once) in the seat memory to run the seat back and steering wheel forward for getting in/out of the car with the engine running.
● If you hate DRLs you can pull the e-brake ONE click and they go off.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19,864
Likes: 146
From: South East TN
You can run the 18" rims up front also, they will fit. You should still maintain the 1/2" to 1 1/2" diameter difference between the front and rear tires to keep traction/active handling control happy. Some people here run square setups for the track. Same size tires and rims front and back, but they usually disengage the active handling/traction control.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,139
Likes: 4,156
From: Kannapolis NC
You can run the 18" rims up front also, they will fit. You should still maintain the 1/2" to 1 1/2" diameter difference between the front and rear tires to keep traction/active handling control happy. Some people here run square setups for the track. Same size tires and rims front and back, but they usually disengage the active handling/traction control.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19,864
Likes: 146
From: South East TN
