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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 10:48 PM
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Default Question On Bleeding Brake

Just received my stainless steel brake lines and will be looking to install them this weekend but have a few questions.

(1) I know the order to bleed the brakes is RR, LR, RF, LF. Can I simply jack up the car one wheel at a time and replace the line an then bleed it or is it best to replace all lines first and then bleed the system.

(2) If its better to replace all lines first and then bleed the system what is the best solution for getting all 4 tires off the ground for the average back yard mechanic without a lift.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jph1972
Just received my stainless steel brake lines and will be looking to install them this weekend but have a few questions.

(1) I know the order to bleed the brakes is RR, LR, RF, LF. Can I simply jack up the car one wheel at a time and replace the line an then bleed it or is it best to replace all lines first and then bleed the system.

(2) If its better to replace all lines first and then bleed the system what is the best solution for getting all 4 tires off the ground for the average back yard mechanic without a lift.

Thanks.

I know for my 2001 the order is RR,LF,LR,RF .. What year is yours?? I just did mine last weekend. Personally I would do each wheel separate but others may not agree. I just think it's easier to keep air out by working on one at a time.

You can jack each one separate or all four up in the air. I roll the front on rhino ramps. Then jack up the rear at the crossmember and put on stands. Then jack the front enough to remove the ramps and put on stands.

FYI- buy a Motive Products bleeding system on Amazon. It's awesome.

Good luck!
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
It depends on the year of your C5. According to the FSM:


1997-2000 LR/RR/RF/LF

2001-2004 RR/LF/LR/RF

Brake plumbing changed in 2001 with the redesigned EBCM


Others have posted that it make no difference but I prefer to follow the advise in the FSM. YMMV



Along that line, I'm thinking that the FSM procedure is probably for a "dry" system, wouldn't you think? As long as the m/c isn't run dry, should the order really matter?

I put fresh fluid in my car every year, and jack up the rear, remove the "storage" tires, use a vacuum pump to draw fluid from the RR first, top off the m/c, draw some fluid from the LR, top off the m/c, then install the summer tires. I then jack the front, remove the "storage" tires, and do the RF first, then the LF, install the tires, and go for a ride.


Been doing it this way for the last 12 years, but as you've aptly stated, YMMV


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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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One other comment, make sure the 'crush washers' used with the SS brakes is made of copper, not aluminum. Some manufacturers will ship aluminum crush washers with their SS brake lines, and they can cause problems with your EBCM giving false errors. Take it from someone that learned a very expensive lesson. The aluminum will corrode, after time, and can cause some electronic 'glitches' that will give active handling and anti locking brake problems that might appear as an EBCM problem.

Last edited by Phanni; Jun 6, 2014 at 09:26 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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Here is a good tip when you have a line or caliper off to keep all the brake fluid upstream.
Block the brake pedal part way down with a rod or something. That blocks off the ports on
the master cylinder and nothing will leak out.
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Along that line, I'm thinking that the FSM procedure is probably for a "dry" system, wouldn't you think? As long as the m/c isn't run dry, should the order really matter?

I put fresh fluid in my car every year, and jack up the rear, remove the "storage" tires, use a vacuum pump to draw fluid from the RR first, top off the m/c, draw some fluid from the LR, top off the m/c, then install the summer tires. I then jack the front, remove the "storage" tires, and do the RF first, then the LF, install the tires, and go for a ride.


Been doing it this way for the last 12 years, but as you've aptly stated, YMMV


That should be okay as long as there is no air introduced into the system. If there is air in it you should probably follow the FSM
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by onlyavette
That should be okay as long as there is no air introduced into the system. If there is air in it you should probably follow the FSM
My point, EXACTLY....



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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TWO5GPA
I know for my 2001 the order is RR,LF,LR,RF .. What year is yours?? I just did mine last weekend. Personally I would do each wheel separate but others may not agree. I just think it's easier to keep air out by working on one at a time.

You can jack each one separate or all four up in the air. I roll the front on rhino ramps. Then jack up the rear at the crossmember and put on stands. Then jack the front enough to remove the ramps and put on stands.

FYI- buy a Motive Products bleeding system on Amazon. It's awesome.

Good luck!
I have a 97 with original brake lines. I was always told to do the caliper that is the furthers from the master cylinder and then work you way up. I purchased speed bleeders as well but I don't think they will work with the Motive Products Bleeding System.
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
My point, EXACTLY....



I missed the top line of your comment.

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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 04:01 AM
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I did fronts/rears one at a time. No problem. I think if you wait to bleed them all at the same time you should follow the pattern in the manual.
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