jph1972

Just received my stainless steel brake lines and will be looking to install them this weekend but have a few questions.

(1) I know the order to bleed the brakes is RR, LR, RF, LF. Can I simply jack up the car one wheel at a time and replace the line an then bleed it or is it best to replace all lines first and then bleed the system.

(2) If its better to replace all lines first and then bleed the system what is the best solution for getting all 4 tires off the ground for the average back yard mechanic without a lift.

Thanks.

TWO5GPA

I know for my 2001 the order is RR,LF,LR,RF .. What year is yours?? I just did mine last weekend. Personally I would do each wheel separate but others may not agree. I just think it's easier to keep air out by working on one at a time.

You can jack each one separate or all four up in the air. I roll the front on rhino ramps. Then jack up the rear at the crossmember and put on stands. Then jack the front enough to remove the ramps and put on stands.

FYI- buy a Motive Products bleeding system on Amazon. It's awesome.

Good luck!

leadfoot4

Along that line, I'm thinking that the FSM procedure is probably for a "dry" system, wouldn't you think? As long as the m/c isn't run dry, should the order really matter?

I put fresh fluid in my car every year, and jack up the rear, remove the "storage" tires, use a vacuum pump to draw fluid from the RR first, top off the m/c, draw some fluid from the LR, top off the m/c, then install the summer tires. I then jack the front, remove the "storage" tires, and do the RF first, then the LF, install the tires, and go for a ride.


Been doing it this way for the last 12 years, but as you've aptly stated, YMMV

Phanni

One other comment, make sure the 'crush washers' used with the SS brakes is made of copper, not aluminum. Some manufacturers will ship aluminum crush washers with their SS brake lines, and they can cause problems with your EBCM giving false errors. Take it from someone that learned a very expensive lesson. The aluminum will corrode, after time, and can cause some electronic 'glitches' that will give active handling and anti locking brake problems that might appear as an EBCM problem.

REDHOTS

Here is a good tip when you have a line or caliper off to keep all the brake fluid upstream.
Block the brake pedal part way down with a rod or something. That blocks off the ports on
the master cylinder and nothing will leak out.

onlyavette

That should be okay as long as there is no air introduced into the system. If there is air in it you should probably follow the FSM

leadfoot4

My point, EXACTLY....

jph1972

I have a 97 with original brake lines. I was always told to do the caliper that is the furthers from the master cylinder and then work you way up. I purchased speed bleeders as well but I don't think they will work with the Motive Products Bleeding System.

onlyavette

I missed the top line of your comment.

jmxp69

I did fronts/rears one at a time. No problem. I think if you wait to bleed them all at the same time you should follow the pattern in the manual.