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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 10:35 PM
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Default Codes of Frustration

So I've had my new to me 02 EBM M6 vert for one month. Between the rainy weather and getting some paint work done, there hasn't been much seat time to enjoy it. So I get it back from the body shop Friday, spend all weekend in my shop detailing it to my liking. Get off work today, sun is shining, car is clean, time for a cruise... Until...

I start the car and right away I get an ABS light and a TC light along with the codes, they are;

PCM P1571 ASR Desired Torque
28 TCS No Comm.
58 SDM U1040 H C


Been searching the forum and found several threads about the same codes, but no one seems to post their fixes.
This is just really frustrating, especially with the holiday weekend coming up.

Anyone had a proven solution for this issue? Help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 06:51 PM
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So, I had the battery checked. It tested bad under load. Ok, I'll replace it and keep my fingers crossed.
Get the new battery installed, jump in, start the car and......

still got the same damn codes.
Guess I start trouble shooting with the links posted above.
Very disappointed and bummed out right now.
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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Did you CLEAR the codes and then take the car for a drive and then pull the codes again to see what returned????

Or did you just replace the battery and then pull up the codes WITHOUT first clearing them??
No, I cleared them and then rechecked to be sure no codes were showing before I started the car. The codes came back in a matter of seconds.
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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 10:50 PM
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Did you do any detailing under the hood by the EBCM. If so, you could have knocked one oft he two connectors loose.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:59 AM
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I had those same three codes when I purchased my 01 Vert. Went through all the same stuff you are. Did all the tests listed above, finally pulled the EBCM and sent it in to a repair facility that I saw mentioned on here.
They sent it back a couple of days later. I just got it back but haven't had a moment to reinstall it yet. I was curious what they repaired on it so I called them and they said they found a bad relay, and a diode was bad. The tech explained that this could have easily been caused from a battery charger or trickle charger. This is well documented as a true statement. I knew the relay was a common issue with these modules, and are around $5 to purchase a new one, but the cost for this repair is $50 more or less. I would not have known to replace the diode, so I'm glad I sent it out vs. doing it myself. Takes about an hour to remove the module the first time, and you can drive the car with it off, so no down time.
Hope this helps.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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Well I'm going to start doing all the test on my car this evening and see what happens. If you would let me know if your issue is fixed once you get the EBCM back on your car. Thanks.



Originally Posted by Biotex
I had those same three codes when I purchased my 01 Vert. Went through all the same stuff you are. Did all the tests listed above, finally pulled the EBCM and sent it in to a repair facility that I saw mentioned on here.
They sent it back a couple of days later. I just got it back but haven't had a moment to reinstall it yet. I was curious what they repaired on it so I called them and they said they found a bad relay, and a diode was bad. The tech explained that this could have easily been caused from a battery charger or trickle charger. This is well documented as a true statement. I knew the relay was a common issue with these modules, and are around $5 to purchase a new one, but the cost for this repair is $50 more or less. I would not have known to replace the diode, so I'm glad I sent it out vs. doing it myself. Takes about an hour to remove the module the first time, and you can drive the car with it off, so no down time.
Hope this helps.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Biotex
I had those same three codes when I purchased my 01 Vert. Went through all the same stuff you are. Did all the tests listed above, finally pulled the EBCM and sent it in to a repair facility that I saw mentioned on here.
They sent it back a couple of days later. I just got it back but haven't had a moment to reinstall it yet. I was curious what they repaired on it so I called them and they said they found a bad relay, and a diode was bad. The tech explained that this could have easily been caused from a battery charger or trickle charger. This is well documented as a true statement. I knew the relay was a common issue with these modules, and are around $5 to purchase a new one, but the cost for this repair is $50 more or less. I would not have known to replace the diode, so I'm glad I sent it out vs. doing it myself. Takes about an hour to remove the module the first time, and you can drive the car with it off, so no down time.
Hope this helps.

Haven't gotten these codes yet, but I am curious. If a battery charger can cause this, what is it that the battery charger does, or doesn't do to cause problems?
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Belcriss
Haven't gotten these codes yet, but I am curious. If a battery charger can cause this, what is it that the battery charger does, or doesn't do to cause problems?

I can't answer this with first hand knowledge, but I read it on some other threads on this forum that there is a known issue about some battery chargers put out a signal or maybe it was a pulse of juice that is not compatible with electronics. I believe we are talking about something that can only be seen visually on an oscilloscope. I was also told that GM put out a bulletin on this matter, but I did not verify it by looking it up.

Hopefully someone else can chime in on this to clarify.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 05:48 PM
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Well, checked the grounds, and they were clean. No corrosion. So now its on to the ignition switch test and see what that shows.


I'm also curious as to why a battery charger would cause this problem. I did have to put my battery charged on my car about a week after I had it, because I was cleaning it and had the stereo on and the battery drained to the point it wouldn't start the car.But that was 3 weeks before my codes appeared.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Biotex
I can't answer this with first hand knowledge, but I read it on some other threads on this forum that there is a known issue about some battery chargers put out a signal or maybe it was a pulse of juice that is not compatible with electronics. I believe we are talking about something that can only be seen visually on an oscilloscope. I was also told that GM put out a bulletin on this matter, but I did not verify it by looking it up.

Hopefully someone else can chime in on this to clarify.
Thank you for your reply, I will do some searching on my own.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 94redrag
So I've had my new to me 02 EBM M6 vert for one month. Between the rainy weather and getting some paint work done, there hasn't been much seat time to enjoy it. So I get it back from the body shop Friday, spend all weekend in my shop detailing it to my liking. Get off work today, sun is shining, car is clean, time for a cruise... Until...

I start the car and right away I get an ABS light and a TC light along with the codes, they are;

PCM P1571 ASR Desired Torque
28 TCS No Comm.
58 SDM U1040 H C


Been searching the forum and found several threads about the same codes, but no one seems to post their fixes.
This is just really frustrating, especially with the holiday weekend coming up.

Anyone had a proven solution for this issue? Help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Hey there, you found the fix for this problem? Mine was throwing the same codes as yours and the fix was to change the cable harness from battery to ground.
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by joaquinnparker
Hey there, you found the fix for this problem? Mine was throwing the same codes as yours and the fix was to change the cable harness from battery to ground.
No. I still haven't found the fix for this problem. I've done all the above checks and everything checks out good. Now I guess its on to removing the EBCM and having it checked/fixed
I just don't understand how I can drive the car home from the body shop(about 4 miles)with no codes present, park in on the lift in my shop for 2 days of detailing and then start it up and have this major problem. And the car was not even started up the whole time it was on my lift. It just doesn't make any sense to me. Frustrating as hell!
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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Just curious, if I take it to the dealer would they be able to read my car with a Tech II and be able to tell me exactly what part is bad? I hate to just keep throwing parts on it until I get lucky enough to fix the problem.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Suggest you read the following thread if you have NOT already done so:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ake-pedal.html


Unless you have lots of money to throw away, I would not try the dealership. JMHO...
Oh I wasn't going to have the dealer fix it, just determine what the bad part was and Ill fix it myself.

The link above sounds exactly like what I'm going thru. I'll be following it closely.
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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Ok. After replacing a known "bad" battery and cleaning all my grounds and replacing the ignition switch - which did have burnt contacts, but didn't fix my problem - I removed my EBCM and sent if off to absfixers to have it checked. Brandon checked it and informed me that it was indeed not fixable, so he sent me one of his refurbed units. Installed the refurbed unit last week Thursday, car started right up with no codes and T/C working normally. Have been driving the car around all weekend with no issues so I'm happy once again. Kudos to Brandon at absfixers!! Thanks Brandon!
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 94redrag
Ok. After replacing a known "bad" battery and cleaning all my grounds and replacing the ignition switch - which did have burnt contacts, but didn't fix my problem - I removed my EBCM and sent if off to absfixers to have it checked. Brandon checked it and informed me that it was indeed not fixable, so he sent me one of his refurbed units. Installed the refurbed unit last week Thursday, car started right up with no codes and T/C working normally. Have been driving the car around all weekend with no issues so I'm happy once again. Kudos to Brandon at absfixers!! Thanks Brandon!
How much is a refurbed unit? I'm thinking of getting a spare.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 94redrag
Ok. After replacing a known "bad" battery and cleaning all my grounds and replacing the ignition switch - which did have burnt contacts, but didn't fix my problem - I removed my EBCM and sent if off to absfixers to have it checked. Brandon checked it and informed me that it was indeed not fixable, so he sent me one of his refurbed units. Installed the refurbed unit last week Thursday, car started right up with no codes and T/C working normally. Have been driving the car around all weekend with no issues so I'm happy once again. Kudos to Brandon at absfixers!! Thanks Brandon!
Sent mine in last week. Brandon was able to clear the 1214 code but not the 1233 code ("won't clear; internal code and not repairable"). On the wait list for a refurbed one since it needs to be replaced. Excellent customer service. No charge to troubleshoot and return. I think the refurb unit is around $300.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Biotex
How much is a refurbed unit? I'm thinking of getting a spare.
Refurbed unit thru Brandon at absfixers is $300.00

Did the place in Az. not fix yours? Just curious?
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 94redrag
Refurbed unit thru Brandon at absfixers is $300.00

Did the place in Az. not fix yours? Just curious?
Turned out the chip set was shot. Nothing they could do for it.
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