I have read some other posts on here before about key fobs, but none seem to fit my exact problem. I just purchased a 1999 C5 two weeks ago and since then, the key fob has been very intermittent. Last night, I decided to check the voltage on the battery and it came out to be 3.05v and it is rated for 3.0 volts. So the batter should be fine. When I put the FOB back together, it didn't work at all. I then opened it back up and saw the 2 sets of three little metal wires and I tried to bend them up slightly so they would make better contact with the Fob. Still did nothing. I came on the forum and figured out how to reprogram it and I did and it worked fine. This morning, the Fob didn't work at all. I took it for a spin and when I came back home, I tried the fob and it worked this time. I don't think it is an orgiginal Fob. It's number is GM: 19299230 and at the very bottom of the fob it says nutek.

Is there something I can test or check to see where the problem might be occuring?

 

try a new battery, I was having the same symptoms and my battery showed 3 volts as well, changed the battery and it has been working fine ever since. its worth a $4 try.

 

Thanks for the reply guys. I bought a new battery today from Batteries Plus where they looked up the correct battery for my Key Fob. I don't think the other battery is the same as the one they sold me today.... Both were round and 3V but I think this one is a little thicker. I'm wondering if the person before me installed the wrong battery. Anyhow, when I get home, i will try that and see if the new Battery works. If not, I'll be doing the fix to the FOB.
Thanks for the info guys!

 

If the car battery is low it can cause this problem. That is why after you run the car the fob works fine because the alternator charged up the battery. I assume your car is not a daily driver so it sits awhile before being driven. If so get a battery tender to keep your battery charged at all times. These cars are so dependent on the electrical system.

 

I purchased the car on Monday the 7th and drove it 2 hours to get it home. The next morning I went to go use it and the FOB didn't work. I drove it all the next weekend 11th, 12th, and 13th. It was very intermittent during the whole time. I bought a new battery for the FOB on the 15th and it didn't help at all. I did figure out that I had to press really hard on one section of the FOB to get it to work... So I'm thinking I either need to do the re-soldier or some kind of glue to get it to keep working as the one thread showed...
Thoughts?

 

Here is something I copied from another post on this forum on the same subject.


You say that your battery is GOOD???? What battery are you referring to and how did you check it?

C5 BCM memory functions, RFA and all of it security settings are very sensitive to fluctuations in system voltages. Your 12 VDC main battery can be good enough to START the car but NOT good enough to maintain module functions during the COLD cranking process. Sounds crazy but, that the way it works. Been there done that! Had the same problems.

Look at ALL the DTC's. Do you have a ton of U series DTC' or ant in the BCM or RFA modules?? (U-1045 H, U- 1035 H etc..............

The U series coded indicate that those modules have either lost communications or shut down because inadequate system voltage (12 VDC)

I can here you thinking (What the hell ,,my car starts and runs just fine! )

During the initial cranking phase, your starter draws the MOST current from the battery. Current is what drives the starter motor. Battery voltage is inversely proportional to battery current. As current demand goes high, battery voltage will go LOW. If your battery is marginal, it will NOT be able to maintain the required system voltage during cranking and some modules will shut down until, current demand decreases or the alternator takes over. Once the voltage raises back to normal, all of those U series DTC turn to a HISTORY code and thats how you get them.

If you want to prove this, put a digital volt meter on the battery and when the car is COLD and has been sitting for a day or so, start the car and monitor battery voltage during cranking process. If battery voltage drops below 10 VDC during cranking, your knocking on the correct door to resolving the issue!

Either recharge the battery if it is just LOW or if it is greater than 3 years old, it may be getting weak.

My 2 cents.

BC

Bill Curlee is offline Report Post

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ob-issues.html

 

That makes sense!!! I don't THINK that this is the issue since I figured out that I have to mash the button in such a way to get it to work. Even after I shut the car down, locked the door, walked into a friends house for 20 minutes, I would click the unlock button and it would do nothing. I would then click the lock button and the lights would flash and horn beep... unlock button again... nothing. Until I discovered that I had to mash the button down really hard on the very outside edge. But I am glad that you shared that with me none the less... cause one day, I'm sure I'll meet that issue!