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My 2002 works fine most of the time but ocasionally when I try to turn on the ignition, the car is disabled.I can usually get the car going by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.You can hear a clicking and the power will be back on.However,the last couple of times I tried this,the alarm sounds and car still won`t start.Has anyone else had this issue?
Miles on car and any recent maintenance done in last 6 months.
Does the IPC DIC light up and function when you get in?
Does the Security indication go off when you put the key in?
Manual or Automatic?
When it does not start can you get the headlights to work?
How old is the battery?
Do you have any DIC trouble codes?
If the battery is old, you need to charge it and take it to an auto store and have it load tested.
With a little more info from you we can do some diagnostics.
Could be as simple as a bad ignition electrical switch.
Car has 95000 km,is automatic, and the only maintenance done since I bought the car last year was oil change and a new battery.When I get in the car, the security light flashes as normal and interior lights come on.I put the key in the ignition and all is good until I turn the key and the car imobilizes itself with absolutely no power at all to anything.I have managed to get power back by disconnecting and re-connecting the battery but yesterday when I tried to do this,the alarm goes off when re-connecting.
Thanks for the info. Big picture it could be a bad battery that can't handle a starting load or maybe an issue with the starter that is pulling excessive current draw and sucking the voltage down.
That is just "off the cuff" thinking.
If fiddling with the battery cables does really have some affect then we can pursue that a little later. Might want to do a good look see at the battery terminal connections when you pull the battery for the load test I am going to recommend.
Take your battery and have it load tested. Again, you or they need to get it fully charged before a load test can be done. Remove your battery from the car for charging.
I would like to see what 8VETTE7 thinks before we go any further and I need some more time to ponder on this.
I did have the battery checked about a month ago and it was reading 12.88 v.When I re-connect the battery cables,I hear a click,click,click as I am tightening the connection and the security light on the mirror comes on and off.Sometimes stays on which then tells me I have power to the systems.However,when I turn the key to the start position I then lose all power again.
I did have the battery checked about a month ago and it was reading 12.88 v.When I re-connect the battery cables,I hear a click,click,click as I am tightening the connection and the security light on the mirror comes on and off.Sometimes stays on which then tells me I have power to the systems.However,when I turn the key to the start position I then lose all power again.
Sounds like your ignition switch is bad and needs to be replaced!
From: Reno is so close to Hell you can see Sparks , State Of Confusion
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by BICKENMAN
I did have the battery checked about a month ago and it was reading 12.88 v.When I re-connect the battery cables,I hear a click,click,click as I am tightening the connection and the security light on the mirror comes on and off.Sometimes stays on which then tells me I have power to the systems.However,when I turn the key to the start position I then lose all power again.
With the exception of B2464 and B2252, the LDCM and RDCM codes are symptomatic of a battery issue. Since you stated that you disconnect and reconnect the battery to try to get the car to start, that action is most likely responsible for those codes.
B2464 is NOT a DTC for a C5 Corvette. Perhaps it is a typo and you meant B2264?
B2252 is an interesting DTC. Key Cylinder Switch Fault. It is for the drivers door key cylinder. It also likely is caused by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. As you connect the battery cable you are not easily able to hold the cable in contact with the battery post as you tighten the bolt. This causes connects and disconnects rather rapidly and those drive the door control module electronics nuts resulting in many irrational DTC's.
With no posted codes pointing to a cause for the NO START condition, I suggest that you focus first on the ignition switch and if that proves good, the next likely cause is the starter/starter solenoid.
Here are some links for the ignition switch. A diagnosis, a removal and a repair.
The diagnosis should show voltages across the fuses indicated that are within 1/2 a volt or so of the voltage measured directly across the battery posts: Ddiagnosis
When I was able to get power to access codes,the alarm sounded,lights popped up and down and the wipers were working on their own.Does this make a difference for the diagnosis?