Voltmeter antifreeze test?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 11
From: las vegas nv.
Voltmeter antifreeze test?
Using an accurate fluke meter I get 0.28 volts with neg. wire to battery-and red wire in antifreeze-when putting pos. red lead to neg battery-and black neg lead into antifreeze- I get a reading of 0.05--what gives and whats accurate?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 372
Likes: 2
From: Richmond BC
I learn something every day! I did some internet research on this and it seems reasonable. (EVERYTHING YOU READ ON THE INTERNET IS TRUE, RIGHT?) Essentially the voltmeter test checks for electrolysis that eats the radiator aluminum, it does not tell you the freezing point like a hydrometer. Apparently after some time the dex gets acidic and electrolysis starts. OR - there is a bad ground from an electrical component and the circuit completes itself through the rad creating a different type of electrolysis. Both with the same result, eating away the rad. So there are two fixes for the problem, one to flush the rad and the other to fix the ground connections. If you unhook the battery and the voltage drops it is the bad ground connection type, if it stays the same it is acidic dex. A reading over 100 mV (0.1 DC) is not good. Mine reads 130mV so it looks like i am going to get to work on my car again.. yay!
BTW I read that the + or red lead goes in the dex, the other to the battery ground - that makes sense electrically.
But first I am going to see if there are any other points of view.
BTW I read that the + or red lead goes in the dex, the other to the battery ground - that makes sense electrically.
But first I am going to see if there are any other points of view.
Last edited by Voodoo13; Sep 16, 2014 at 12:05 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
From: plymouth mi
I learn something every day! I did some internet research on this and it seems reasonable. (EVERYTHING YOU READ ON THE INTERNET IS TRUE, RIGHT?) Essentially the voltmeter test checks for electrolysis that eats the radiator aluminum, it does not tell you the freezing point like a hydrometer. Apparently after some time the dex gets acidic and electrolysis starts. OR - there is a bad ground from an electrical component and the circuit completes itself through the rad creating a different type of electrolysis. Both with the same result, eating away the rad. So there are two fixes for the problem, one to flush the rad and the other to fix the ground connections. If you unhook the battery and the voltage drops it is the bad ground connection type, if it stays the same it is acidic dex. A reading over 100 mV (0.1 DC) is not good. Mine reads 130mV so it looks like i am going to get to work on my car again.. yay!
BTW I read that the + or red lead goes in the dex, the other to the battery ground - that makes sense electrically.
But first I am going to see if there are any other points of view.
BTW I read that the + or red lead goes in the dex, the other to the battery ground - that makes sense electrically.
But first I am going to see if there are any other points of view.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 11
From: las vegas nv.
I also have read that anything below .5=5/10 of a volt is ok
