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I need help. I have a 2002 C5 vette, 187k miles on it and I love this car... It's perfect except I keep replacing the error code module that is flashing "dummy codes" on my dash screen. As you can tell, I have zero technical abilities.. So I get the newest code ABS needs servicing. I call my regular mechanic and he says, dealership. UUGGHHH... I take it there and explain that the error code module is faulty as it sends out flat tire codes, engine needs servicing, and now the ABS issue. BUT I want to verify that the ABS is okay or not, just to be sure. They quote $2.5k to replace the ABS module as they say its faulty. I decline. Get in the car this morning, the code for ABS is gone and the flat tire code is back... Is there a 2nd check that they should have run to verify the ABS needs replaced, what do I do as I feel I'm being taken. And this is the 4th error code module I've replaced in the last five years. Hope I'm making sense..
Your car can tell you a lot. Try pulling the DTC codes and post them here on the forum. There are quite a few people that can help if you give them something to work with.
It has a lot of information, but the basics of pulling the codes are copied below:
How TO Display 2003 Corvette DTC Codes on the DIC
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "reset" button (for 5 sec) to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "options" button and
4) While holding "options", press "fuel" four times within a 10-Second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into the "automatic" mode, which shows each module's DTCs in a pre-set sequence....................
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That is a lot of replacements for one part. Have you checked what codes are being shown on the Driver's Information Center? If you are not familiar with how to do that, just search for pulling DIC codes and follow the instructions. Also, have you made sure your battery is in good shape?
So you are getting up to 4 messages every time you start up:
Service ABS
Service TC
Service AH
and
Service Tire Monitor System
Does the system also illuminate the ABS (and TC) lights on the dash?
When you clear the messages (one press of the reset button for each message)
the display should show the position of the "flat" tire along with the pressure reading.
On my 01, the tire monitor system message appears at ignition if any given tire is less than 25psi.
I get this one regularly when seasons change because I keep my pressure a bit lower in spring and summer to compensate for heat expansion. When ambient temps drop off, sometime cold tire pressure drops below 25, setting the alert.
Do you get a wheel position (LF, RF, LR, RR) and a number or just a wheel position and a blank?
Where blank doesn't necessarily mean flat, it means the sensor isn't reading the pressure correctly. (possibly a dead battery in the sensor)
I think at 180K on the clock, it might be time for a new toy.
NEVER... Or at least at this time.. The car has a perfect body, perfect interior, just this dang error code and I think I'm getting played by the dealership.. Love the body style and can't yet let go. I want to see if pass 200k if I can.
Corvette lovers, sometimes we don't think with our brains..
NEVER... Or at least at this time.. The car has a perfect body, perfect interior, just this dang error code and I think I'm getting played by the dealership.. Love the body style and can't yet let go. I want to see if pass 200k if I can.
Corvette lovers, sometimes we don't think with our brains..
NEVER is a LONG time, at some point it doesn't make sense pouring thousands into a car with almost 200K on the clock. The likelihood of the C5 ever being a "classic" is pretty low. Pull your codes, it might be a cheap fix.
As others said, pull your codes. Depending on what is found, could be a cheap fix since you have a 2002 with the repairable EBCM.
Really, who would drop $2K plus on an ABS system on a car with 180K miles on it, that would be DUMB! Bet the value of the car is barely 5K with that mileage.
I need help. I have a 2002 C5 vette, 187k miles on it and I love this car... It's perfect except I keep replacing the error code module that is flashing "dummy codes" on my dash screen. As you can tell, I have zero technical abilities.. So I get the newest code ABS needs servicing. I call my regular mechanic and he says, dealership. UUGGHHH... I take it there and explain that the error code module is faulty as it sends out flat tire codes, engine needs servicing, and now the ABS issue. BUT I want to verify that the ABS is okay or not, just to be sure. They quote $2.5k to replace the ABS module as they say its faulty. I decline. Get in the car this morning, the code for ABS is gone and the flat tire code is back... Is there a 2nd check that they should have run to verify the ABS needs replaced, what do I do as I feel I'm being taken. And this is the 4th error code module I've replaced in the last five years. Hope I'm making sense..
Need some info. What do you mean when you say you keep replacing the error code module? There is no single module that does that but the BCM does do the routing for all the various module codes including it's own and send them to the IPC..
With the DIC trouble codes we can help you figure out what is going on.
With regard to tire pressure codes it could just be one or more bad tire pressure sensors which is normally due to the batteries in the tire/wheel.
Really, who would drop $2K plus on an ABS system on a car with 180K miles on it, that would be DUMB! Bet the value of the car is barely 5K with that mileage.
Who cares about mileage if the car is still being enjoyed? It's sad how much of a throw away society we live in these days. I'm sure there is a better solution to his problem than spending $2k but ultimately it's the OP's choice on what to do. I'm guessing your advice is to go buy a new car to "save" the repair money.
I think at 180K on the clock, it might be time for a new toy.
Maybe for you, but I just hit 100k and if I don't hit 200k before I'm done, then I haven't driven it enough (30k in a year so far owning my C5). If you can find me a C5 for $5k, I'll buy it today. My C4 had 125k on it and booked out at $13k, I paid $4k for it, but I got the deal of the year.
Who cares about mileage if the car is still being enjoyed? It's sad how much of a throw away society we live in these days. I'm sure there is a better solution to his problem than spending $2k but ultimately it's the OP's choice on what to do. I'm guessing your advice is to go buy a new car to "save" the repair money.
NO, I'm saying there is a point of diminishing returns, fully functional C5's are around for cheap and if his option is to spend 1/3 of what the car is worth to fix the EBCM it NOT WORTH IT. Many modern cars will end up dying this way, the electronics will kill them, not the mechanical stuff. I just looked up the range for that car, $6k in fair condition to $7500 in excellent condition private owner sale (assuming you could find someone willing to buy a car with that mileage).
NO, I'm saying there is a point of diminishing returns, fully functional C5's are around for cheap and if his option is to spend 1/3 of what the car is worth to fix the EBCM it NOT WORTH IT. Many modern cars will end up dying this way, the electronics will kill them, not the mechanical stuff. I just looked up the range for that car, $6k in fair condition to $7500 in excellent condition private owner sale (assuming you could find someone willing to buy a car with that mileage).
OP hasn't even posted his codes yet and you are telling him to go junk his car.
NO, I'm saying there is a point of diminishing returns, fully functional C5's are around for cheap and if his option is to spend 1/3 of what the car is worth to fix the EBCM it NOT WORTH IT. Many modern cars will end up dying this way, the electronics will kill them, not the mechanical stuff. I just looked up the range for that car, $6k in fair condition to $7500 in excellent condition private owner sale (assuming you could find someone willing to buy a car with that mileage).
OK, but since it's an '02 and the parts are widely available, I doubt he would spend $2k+ unless he just doesn't know better.
For me, $2k would be worth it. Agreed about diminished returns, but it's a car. As soon as it isn't "new" the returns diminish other than the miles of smiles on my face.
Again, I paid $4k for my C4, drove it 18 months (and 25k miles), then hit a patch of ice and rolled it. Insurance paid out $11,500 after deductible, fees and crap. While I got a bump on my head, I made out ok in the end and it was killing me to think of selling it after the FX3 quite working and was going to be about $2k to fix.
I fully agree with those suggesting you pull and post the codes that the car has. Here is some help on how to do that:
Here is how to pull and post codes:
Post ALL your codes including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. If you have any Unnnn codes then list the sensor under which the Unnnn code appears. For example 28-TCS U1016.
The same Unnnn codes can appear under multiple sensors and it is helpful to know which sensor the Unnnn code is associated with.
Once you post the codes we can offer some help....
[QUOTE=dadaroo;1587850887]Need some info. What do you mean when you say you keep replacing the error code module?
all 3 modules are not bad . there is another issue. Stable voltage source, proper clean connections and GOOD GROUNDS should be closely looked at before you go buying any more parts.
If you love the car stick with it.... @ 180 K, the car is just shifting into second gear. there is plenty of joys and smiles left in that car. I would go with the grounds check first.
"All of them"
Good luck
Bill
IM happy to see that someone has picked up the baton of " In your face " for poorly suggested advice... IM too sick to be the in your face guy I use to be.