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Got a question. My c5 has locked itself with the key inside 3 times now. Once with key on front seat, once with key on floor in back, and today with it in iqnition and car running. No, I did not hit lock button, yes the battery is good, and yes I did hit side hard with my hand. Anyway, I ordered new key for my wallet. Question is, can I grind down the top black part flat like the blade so it will fit in my wallet better? Without messing it up. Or can I just cut the black top off? My wife is getting tired of bringing me her key. The Chev dealer could not answer. Thanks.
Got a question. My c5 has locked itself with the key inside 3 times now. Once with key on front seat, once with key on floor in back, and today with it in iqnition and car running. No, I did not hit lock button, yes the battery is good, and yes I did hit side hard with my hand. Anyway, I ordered new key for my wallet. Question is, can I grind down the top black part flat like the blade so it will fit in my wallet better? Without messing it up. Or can I just cut the black top off? My wife is getting tired of bringing me her key. The Chev dealer could not answer. Thanks.
Just have a locksmith or Home Depot/Lowes cut a flat GM key.
Noticed on one of your previous post that you have a 98 C5. By chance do you have the key fobs passive lock option enabled. This maybe causing your car to decide to lock itself. I'd disable this option by moving the fobs slide switch to the off position.
This doesn't answer your question about grinding the key down, but, somewhere I read that if you "lock your keys in the car' , all you have to do is wait a few minutes, then shake the car and the doors will unlock.
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Sure. But make certain your fingers are strong enough to turn the stub in the lock first. Even better, you do not need one with the resistor pellet to just open the door or hatch locks. Pellet is just needed to start the car. That way when you loose your wallet, they can't start the car. Unless of course if you loose the wallet AFTER locking the key with the pellet inside the car.
Just get a regular flat key and have it cut so you can unlock your door.
Just get a regular flat key and have it cut so you can unlock your door.
I took ign key to wal mart and they couldn't cut flat key because the resistor of pellet got in the way. I guess I'll try a locksmith. Shaking car doesn't work as I mentioned in my opening thread, I did everything but throw my body into the side of it. Anyway, one of you said I could grind the black sided end down without any problems, so that is what I'll do. After i get it ground down flat, I'll cut enough off so that I can still turn it. I don't really want to disable the passive, I like it locking itself when I leave it. I used to have to walk back up a 50 foot high stairway when I forgot to lock it ( I live on a boat in a marina). Long walk up to parking lot. Thanks everyone, I know what I can do now.
I took ign key to wal mart and they couldn't cut flat key because the resistor of pellet got in the way. I guess I'll try a locksmith. Shaking car doesn't work as I mentioned in my opening thread, I did everything but throw my body into the side of it. Anyway, one of you said I could grind the black sided end down without any problems, so that is what I'll do. After i get it ground down flat, I'll cut enough off so that I can still turn it. I don't really want to disable the passive, I like it locking itself when I leave it. I used to have to walk back up a 50 foot high stairway when I forgot to lock it ( I live on a boat in a marina). Long walk up to parking lot. Thanks everyone, I know what I can do now.
I took my key to Home Depot and they were able to make a flat key.
I heated the plastic on the key to remove it then soldered on a short piece of brass to the end of the metal key blank for leverage, not much heat was used so the resistor didn't melt.
I heated the plastic on the key to remove it then soldered on a short piece of brass to the end of the metal key blank for leverage, not much heat was used so the resistor didn't melt.
Thanks, I think I'll try the home depot thing first.
I don't really want to disable the passive, I like it locking itself when I leave it.
I'm 100% exactly the opposite of your thinking. I HATED the passive because I never knew if it was working or if I could depend on it. And obviously, you've discovered how "dependable" the passive lock feature is (among the many other wonderful electronic gizmos on our C5s). I have a 98 and turned off the passive and I manually lock the car everytime I leave it. When I walk away from the car, I manually lock the car and listen for it to respond to me. I can then walk away knowing the car is really locked. I hate the worry of thinking "Did it lock by itself this time?" I'd spend WAY more time walking back and checking that than if I'd manually locked the car and heard it honk back to me. My suggestion is don't depend on the passive. It will let you down... (oh I see it already has).....
Related to this: I received two keys and one fob when I purchased my used 2002 coupe. The fob is a #2 so I'll have to track down a #1. The two keys are slightly different sizes, one larger than the other. Which one is the primary key? Is the other the valet key? Both seem to have pellets. Thanks.