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PCM Code P0410

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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 04:44 PM
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Default PCM Code P0410

Hi all,

I've searched and read some of the related threads on P0410. I pulled apart the AIR hose at the junction next to the alternator. I cold started the car. At the junction, there was no air coming from AIR pump side, but I could feel and hear air coming from the exhaust side. So, does this mean:
  1. Replace the AIR pump?
  2. Replace one or both check valves?
  3. Do neither and just keep clearing the codes?

Emissions testing is *not* required where I live.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 09:52 AM
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Here is a link to help you. Let us know what you determine.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=65507
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 11:24 PM
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I'll add the car is a 2004 Z06 with 45k miles.

Originally Posted by dadaroo
Here is a link to help you. Let us know what you determine.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=65507
Thank you, I've read that thread. However, it is confusing. A check valve is a one-way valve. My understanding is the AIR system check valve on our cars is a one-way for fresh air to enter the exhaust and not allow exhaust to pass through the valve towards the AIR pump. However, I could be completely wrong in my understanding of the secondary AIR injection system operation.

From Bill Curlee's threads on this subject, I've at least determined there is no fresh air being pumped. Thus, the P0410 code. However, I'm not sure if the actual pump is faulty, or something else upstream of the AIR pump is not activating it.

Furthermore, since I observe exhaust air "pumped" towards the AIR pump (the wrong direction?), I suspect at least the driver's side check valve is toast and I'll assume the passenger side is as well.

Until I get the 2004 Corvette GM service manual and run through the diagnostic steps for P0410, is there anything else I can easily check to validate the AIR system?

Cheers

P.S. Admins, any chance you can move this thread to the Tech section? I just realized I started this under General. Thx
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 12:04 AM
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Default p401 code

Originally Posted by rock_man
I'll add the car is a 2004 Z06 with 45k miles.



Thank you, I've read that thread. However, it is confusing. A check valve is a one-way valve. My understanding is the AIR system check valve on our cars is a one-way for fresh air to enter the exhaust and not allow exhaust to pass through the valve towards the AIR pump. However, I could be completely wrong in my understanding of the secondary AIR injection system operation.

From Bill Curlee's threads on this subject, I've at least determined there is no fresh air being pumped. Thus, the P0410 code. However, I'm not sure if the actual pump is faulty, or something else upstream of the AIR pump is not activating it.

Furthermore, since I observe exhaust air "pumped" towards the AIR pump (the wrong direction?), I suspect at least the driver's side check valve is toast and I'll assume the passenger side is as well.

Until I get the 2004 Corvette GM service manual and run through the diagnostic steps for P0410, is there anything else I can easily check to validate the AIR system?

Cheers

P.S. Admins, any chance you can move this thread to the Tech section? I just realized I started this under General. Thx
I had a similar problem, mine was caused by a vacumn leak from the supply line that hooks up on the back of the intake manifold. it is not a bad enough leak to hear or cause any other codes, but it also supplies vacumn to engage the electric air pump. one other symptom is the ac will only blow out the dash vents no matter where the controller is placed. hope this helps.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 01:07 AM
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When I had my car tuned I just had that code completely removed. We have obd2 testing here yearly in NC. Problem solved!!
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 07:49 AM
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rock man, you understand exactly how it works. We know the check valve is bad. Why not try and jumper power and ground to the pump motor and see if it runs.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
rock man, you understand exactly how it works. We know the check valve is bad. Why not try and jumper power and ground to the pump motor and see if it runs.
Although this issue is not a priority right now, I'll check this out, thank you!
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:19 PM
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That was the problem with mine... the pump itself.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:23 PM
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Cool. What's the easiest way to access the AIR pump for this diagnostic check and possible R&R?
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rock_man
Cool. What's the easiest way to access the AIR pump for this diagnostic check and possible R&R?
When I wanted to remove mine I dug up this thread and went by it. Scroll down and you will see the little aggravating thing. Ha!

http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29886
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GenerationX1
When I wanted to remove mine I dug up this thread and went by it. Scroll down and you will see the little aggravating thing. Ha!

http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29886
Thx! Yup, I have seen it deep down there under the driver's side headlight. What has to be removed to get to the sucker? Front bumper clip? Left front wheel and wheel well skirt? And, we haven't even got to the busted knuckles passenger AIR check valve... Ack.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rock_man
Thx! Yup, I have seen it deep down there under the driver's side headlight. What has to be removed to get to the sucker? Front bumper clip? Left front wheel and wheel well skirt? And, we haven't even got to the busted knuckles passenger AIR check valve... Ack.
From what I can remember... it's been a good while.. you will have to remove the bottom cover underneath the bumper to access it. From there you will see what holds it.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GenerationX1
From what I can remember... it's been a good while.. you will have to remove the bottom cover underneath the bumper to access it. From there you will see what holds it.
Doesn't seem so bad, thx.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rock_man
Doesn't seem so bad, thx.
It is and can be a little annoying to remove. However, since you don't have to worry about emissions is a plus for you but the stupid code bugged me enough to where I just had it tuned out and was done with it. Good luck to you.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 11:15 PM
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Indeed. I was also thinking about getting it tuned out as well. And eventually remove the plumbing and add block-off plates on the headers. My understanding is the 'puter only activates the system at cold start and to run the ODB II diagnostic check to verify operation. Properly tuned out, the 'puter gets a lobotomy on this function.

Right now, I just clear the code when it pops.

Thanks for the help!
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 02:28 PM
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So, I swapped the horn relay with the AIR pump relay and guess what? No horn! Just a clicking sound at the relay. This confirms a failed relay. I replaced the AIR Pump relay. P0410 has not returned yet. Not bad for a $25 fix and 30 seconds of work.

Cheers

Last edited by rock_man; Mar 24, 2015 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rock_man
So, I swapped the horn relay with the AIR pump relay and guess what? No horn! Just a clicking sound at the relay. This confirms a failed relay. I replaced the AIR Pump relay. P410 has not returned yet. Not bad for a $25 fix and 30 seconds of work.

Cheers
You can't beat that at all!!
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 05:50 AM
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Nice find.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:22 PM
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Thanks to this thread I no longer have a P0410 code.

Swapped horn and air pump relays; air pump works now, horn does not.

I ordered 2 new relays from ebay, $8.50 shipped for both.
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