rock_man

Hi all,

I've searched and read some of the related threads on P0410. I pulled apart the AIR hose at the junction next to the alternator. I cold started the car. At the junction, there was no air coming from AIR pump side, but I could feel and hear air coming from the exhaust side. So, does this mean:

1. Replace the AIR pump?
2. Replace one or both check valves?
3. Do neither and just keep clearing the codes?

Emissions testing is *not* required where I live.

Thanks!

dadaroo

Here is a link to help you. Let us know what you determine.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=65507

rock_man

I'll add the car is a 2004 Z06 with 45k miles.

Thank you, I've read that thread. However, it is confusing. A check valve is a one-way valve. My understanding is the AIR system check valve on our cars is a one-way for fresh air to enter the exhaust and not allow exhaust to pass through the valve towards the AIR pump. However, I could be completely wrong in my understanding of the secondary AIR injection system operation.

From Bill Curlee's threads on this subject, I've at least determined there is no fresh air being pumped. Thus, the P0410 code. However, I'm not sure if the actual pump is faulty, or something else upstream of the AIR pump is not activating it.

Furthermore, since I observe exhaust air "pumped" towards the AIR pump (the wrong direction?), I suspect at least the driver's side check valve is toast and I'll assume the passenger side is as well.

Until I get the 2004 Corvette GM service manual and run through the diagnostic steps for P0410, is there anything else I can easily check to validate the AIR system?

Cheers

P.S. Admins, any chance you can move this thread to the Tech section? I just realized I started this under General. Thx

zachaeous

I had a similar problem, mine was caused by a vacumn leak from the supply line that hooks up on the back of the intake manifold. it is not a bad enough leak to hear or cause any other codes, but it also supplies vacumn to engage the electric air pump. one other symptom is the ac will only blow out the dash vents no matter where the controller is placed. hope this helps.

GenerationX1

When I had my car tuned I just had that code completely removed. We have obd2 testing here yearly in NC. Problem solved!!

dadaroo

rock man, you understand exactly how it works. We know the check valve is bad. Why not try and jumper power and ground to the pump motor and see if it runs.

rock_man

Although this issue is not a priority right now, I'll check this out, thank you!

GenerationX1

That was the problem with mine... the pump itself.

rock_man

Cool. What's the easiest way to access the AIR pump for this diagnostic check and possible R&R?

GenerationX1

When I wanted to remove mine I dug up this thread and went by it. Scroll down and you will see the little aggravating thing. Ha!

http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29886

rock_man

Thx! Yup, I have seen it deep down there under the driver's side headlight. What has to be removed to get to the sucker? Front bumper clip? Left front wheel and wheel well skirt? And, we haven't even got to the busted knuckles passenger AIR check valve... Ack.

GenerationX1

From what I can remember... it's been a good while.. you will have to remove the bottom cover underneath the bumper to access it. From there you will see what holds it.

rock_man

Doesn't seem so bad, thx.

GenerationX1

It is and can be a little annoying to remove. However, since you don't have to worry about emissions is a plus for you but the stupid code bugged me enough to where I just had it tuned out and was done with it. Good luck to you.

rock_man

Indeed. I was also thinking about getting it tuned out as well. And eventually remove the plumbing and add block-off plates on the headers. My understanding is the 'puter only activates the system at cold start and to run the ODB II diagnostic check to verify operation. Properly tuned out, the 'puter gets a lobotomy on this function.

Right now, I just clear the code when it pops.

Thanks for the help!

rock_man

So, I swapped the horn relay with the AIR pump relay and guess what? No horn! Just a clicking sound at the relay. This confirms a failed relay. I replaced the AIR Pump relay. P0410 has not returned yet. Not bad for a $25 fix and 30 seconds of work.

Cheers

GenerationX1

You can't beat that at all!!

hoosiervette

Nice find.

randerson0248

Thanks to this thread I no longer have a P0410 code.

Swapped horn and air pump relays; air pump works now, horn does not.

I ordered 2 new relays from ebay, $8.50 shipped for both.