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Hard Vibration/Studder between 40-50mph

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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 08:37 AM
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Default Hard Vibration/Studder between 40-50mph

Hey guys just looking for some info, I've noticed recently that my basically stock automatic 98 coupe has started to studder, shake and vibrate on the highway. It doesn't happen in between shift changes. It only happens about 75% of the time when I have my foot off the gas coasting in traffic between 40-50mph and then when I press the gas and accelerate it happens. It doesn't happen at higher or lower speeds and doesn't matter if I mash the gas or barely press the accelerator. From reading posts on here I'm wondering if it could be the TT couplers? Or if it could be a faulty coil? I'm not sure here and don't necessarily want to do a costly repair like the couplers and have that not fix the problem, any ideas guys? Thanks all info appreciated!
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Joeperry777
Hey guys just looking for some info, I've noticed recently that my basically stock automatic 98 coupe has started to studder, shake and vibrate on the highway. It doesn't happen in between shift changes. It only happens about 75% of the time when I have my foot off the gas coasting in traffic between 40-50mph and then when I press the gas and accelerate it happens. It doesn't happen at higher or lower speeds and doesn't matter if I mash the gas or barely press the accelerator. From reading posts on here I'm wondering if it could be the TT couplers? Or if it could be a faulty coil? I'm not sure here and don't necessarily want to do a costly repair like the couplers and have that not fix the problem, any ideas guys? Thanks all info appreciated!
Cannot tell much from what you are describing. The TT Coupler makes sense if it is more of a off accelerator vibration (could be wheel bearings as well or tie rod/control arm bushings), but when you threw coil into the mix, sounded like a motor issue.

Need more information on where you believe the issue is, motor, drive train or chassis.

Best place to start is the DIC. Any indicators there?

If engine, check the plug wires and plugs. A bad wire may not miss all of the time, but arch at certain RPMs.
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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I checked for codes and there were none. It feels like it's coming from the drivetrain but I'm not totally sure. I'll be honest I don't know too much about car repair but I'm trying to learn. Like I said it happens only when I accelerate between 40-50 mph then it stops. It shakes, vibrates and studders really bad but then smooths out after a couple seconds. I do think it feels like something with TT, tranny or diff but someone mentioned to me the coil thinking that it's starting to fail under load and possibly causing it to misfire.
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:37 AM
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If it was a coil that does it at a certain rpm then it "should" do it in other gears at the same rpm.

Your symptoms do sound like a TT type issue vibrating when it is unloaded but not when it gets loaded.

How many miles on the car? Any previous maintenance records? What maintenance have you done in the last 6 months that might be relevant?

May need to check the wheel bearings and rear drive shafts also as a start.

Also, very important, do you get steering wheel shake or not when it happens?
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 11:34 AM
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I don't believe I get steering wheel shake when it happens but to be honest I haven't looked for it. The car just turned over 100k. In the last 6 months I've replaced the rear tires, brakes, rotors, battery, starter, alternator (rebuilt), belts, belt tensioner, repaired all the grounds and ground connections, repaired wire harness in drivers side door, a couple oil changes and a round of techron. In the service history of the car all fluids were changed in the car around 80k (about 5k before I bought the car). I'm planning on doing a little tune up this weekend (spark plugs and wires) and need to get front tires as well.

I'm trying to find out if this problem is going to be an expensive repair and if I should do it or if I should trade just it in toward a C6.
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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If you are thinking about trading it, then I would not go through the expense of replace and see.

Find a reputable Corvette garage in your area, let them check it out. They should be able to tell you precisely what the issue is for little to no cost. Then you can decide.
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 11:12 PM
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You wouldn't happen to be listening to the radio when it happens would you? If so then 75% of the time they're playing that new Taylor swift song, and your car is probably "getting down to this, sick, beat."

Seriously though, using a scanner find out if you have a p0300 code. It won't show up on the DIC, only with a scanner. That's exactly what was happening to my z06 and I had no codes until I looked with a handheld scanner.

Report back
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dbgoodwin
You wouldn't happen to be listening to the radio when it happens would you? If so then 75% of the time they're playing that new Taylor swift song, and your car is probably "getting down to this, sick, beat."

Seriously though, using a scanner find out if you have a p0300 code. It won't show up on the DIC, only with a scanner. That's exactly what was happening to my z06 and I had no codes until I looked with a handheld scanner.

Report back
Good advise as well!
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 08:38 AM
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A P0300 code IS designed to show up using the DIC.
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